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  #21  
Old September 21st, 2016, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I have moments of clarity Actually credit where credit is due, Pendy imparted the heater hose idea/wisdom to me, 10 plus years ago. Miss that guy, hope he's well.
I know Bobeck spoke to him under a year ago or so when he had a question or two re my swap.
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  #22  
Old September 21st, 2016, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I run the entire length of the positive through a conduit made of heater hose. Anything nicking the insulation creates the opportunity for an unexpected welding incident or worse fire. Another suggestion is to use heat shrink with adhesive ie marine heat shrink on the ends to prevent water ingress. Twisted copper, especially large gauge, is prone to "going green" with air and moisture. Making the ends as weather tight as possible is the goal.
Thought it wasn't a winch power lead, I fondly recall Hitman Bobby's 110 throwing sparks and flames at URE... great times.
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  #23  
Old September 21st, 2016, 05:09 PM
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Doug Crowther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzzzzzz View Post
Thought it wasn't a winch power lead, I fondly recall Hitman Bobby's 110 throwing sparks and flames at URE... great times.
Yeah, when Hitman Bobby sent his truck to me to have all that work done, I just unhooked anything suspect after having seen it on fire a couple times @ URE. Aside from breaking a rear axle, he's been running it all over Texas and New Mexico without issue.

------ Follow up post added September 21st, 2016 05:12 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LRNAD90 View Post
Yeah, he kind of dropped off the planet, what ever happened to him??

As for useful info for this thread...

I saw a guy years ago who used Seal Tight Electrical conduit and right angle connectors to run the cables back to his battery box. He drilled holes (now we cringe at this, but 15 years ago not many owners through twice about it) in the seat box to fit the connectors, but its another thought for protecting the cable...

I ran 2/0 gauge welding cable, and put it in a plastic corrugated conduit to protect against chaffing, but the heater hose is probably a more durable solution..

I also updated the cables from the solenoids to the winch motor to larger (1 gauge I believe), fine strand welding cables when I had the original leads made up..
The nice thing about welding cable is how soft it is, that makes it easier to make sharp radius turns etc. The heater hose is cool for use as a conduit because its uber cheap, by the foot @ any parts store.
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  #24  
Old September 21st, 2016, 05:26 PM
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Bought the 2/0 wiring, 3/8" terminals, solder slugs (What a great invention), heat shrink, heater hose and super duty zip ties. What a PITA running the wiring. I had to reroute the wiring in the relay box due to its size. It got to hot in the garage so I'll finish it later this week.
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  #25  
Old September 21st, 2016, 06:03 PM
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I'll take some when I finish it up later.
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  #26  
Old September 21st, 2016, 06:24 PM
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Mike Barnett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
I used battery cables.
Where did you find ones that were long enough? Longest I've seen is 6 feet.
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  #27  
Old September 21st, 2016, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
Where did you find ones that were long enough? Longest I've seen is 6 feet.
I bolted two pieces together and wrapped the joint with tape and heat wrap.
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  #28  
Old September 21st, 2016, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
I bolted two pieces together and wrapped the joint with tape and heat wrap.

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  #29  
Old September 21st, 2016, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
Where did you find ones that were long enough? Longest I've seen is 6 feet.
25 ft. 2 Gauge Booster Cables
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  #30  
Old September 21st, 2016, 08:01 PM
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I got ,y made in usa 2/0 wiring and lugs from amazon. ordered 15 feet of black and red and was plenty for my truck with a over the frame rail install, think it was $50 and change for the wire and the lugs . I also used a 350amp forklift connector to disconnect the winch and add a jump location. I crimped all my connections in a vise and heatshrinked.
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  #31  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 12:44 PM
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First set of pictures.
Pic 1 & 2 - Modified box and buss bar installed "deeper" for cable clearance
Pic 3 & 4 - Cable installed. There is a 1/16" gap between the insulation and the buss bar. I have 3 layers of insulation between them.
Pulling the wire thru the heater hose is a PITA. I poured dish soap thru the heater hose and it was doable but still tough.

***As always the crappy board software turned the pictures 90 degrees.***
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  #32  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 01:39 PM
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If you haven't already put the terminal ends on, I advise using a crimper instead of the solder. I used to be a fan of the solder but I've had one come loose. Crimping makes a more secure connection. I use Odyssey batteries and buy them from Battery Systems. Those guys always have a big crimping tool and they'll let you borrow it. I just bring the pre-cut cables and terminal ends over to their store and use the crimper to finish them. Then, I put heat shrink to cover the terminal/cable mating joint.

I've long used the Pendy heater hose method but I've since found that there is a sweet industrial-strength heatshrink that's diesel-proof that works really well, and it's easier to get the cables through it. I used this stuff on my chassis harness (run on top of the frame). It's so tough that once you shrink it, you have to use a hacksaw to cut it.

I think this is the stuff: http://www.heatshrink.com/heat_shrin.../cfw_u_spl.asp
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  #33  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 02:06 PM
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I ended up crimping mine with a vise and aluminum vise jaws.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48000-A.../dp/B000FMM6NW

The vise jaws have a diamond shaped area in the center of jaws when closed. It is the perfect size to crimp 2/0 lugs and leaves an almost factory looking swage.

i used a cheater pipe to really crank them down
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  #34  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 03:22 PM
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Hammer crimpers are cheap. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-D800-Ham...hammer+crimper
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  #35  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 04:27 PM
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Mike Simpson
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This tool actually works quite well but maxes out at 0 gauge:
Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool
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  #36  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 04:58 PM
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Matthew
1983 110 200tdi 3 door soft top
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Yep by why buy a tool if I already had these at home? The vise jaws were mainly purchased to hold gun barrels
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  #37  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 05:03 PM
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Because the more tools you have the greater your value as a human being.
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  #38  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 08:24 PM
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If you want to route the cables through the preexisting holes in the battery box, then check these out:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#69915k72/=14a9sx6

Worked perfectly on my ex MOD. Provides abrasion and strain protection, as well as seals out water.


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  #39  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghoregon View Post
If you want to route the cables through the preexisting holes in the battery box, then check these out:

McMaster-Carr

Worked perfectly on my ex MOD. Provides abrasion and strain protection, as well as seals out water.
You're running only one cable per hole?
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  #40  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
You're running only one cable per hole?
Correct. Sorry, I should have made that clear.

In my case it was for 2/0 battery cables. Used one in the front battery box hole for the positive cable to the starter and one in the back of the battery box for the ground to the chassis.

There was plenty of room to feed through one cable as well as the terminal lug. No chance the size I have would fit two 2/0 cables.

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