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  #1  
Old January 31st, 2008, 05:59 PM
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Winch/Power Wiring Opinion

I am getting ready to wire up my winch. Here is what I want to do: I want to install a power quick connect on the front bumper so I can use that as a power source for jump starting, etc. Those two wires will run up into the engine compartment where they will meet with the winch wiring at a junction block. This block will be in an enclosed box for safety. Then two wires will run to the battery box under the seat where I will eventually have dual batteries with a dual battery kit from Painless. Do you see any issues with this? I am concerned that the winch will be on the same potential circuit when I go to jump start someone. Should I fuse the winch? If so, what amperage (8k winch)?

Gracias!!!
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  #2  
Old January 31st, 2008, 06:38 PM
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I put my quick connect under the hood, mounted to the horn bracket. That way I can unplug the winch when not in use. I heard stories of kids using a paper clip to "hot wire" the winch. They would take the cable over the top of the truck and attach it to the trailer hitch. Then turn the winch on and walk away. The truck would be smashed in half down the middle longways. After hearing this, I decided I would rather pop the hood if I needed to give a jump. But basically mine is wired up the same way as you describe. I could never get the isolator thing to work right, so my batteries are wired together. It would take days for my ARB freezer to wear out the two yellow tops.
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  #3  
Old January 31st, 2008, 06:42 PM
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Yeah, I thought about putting it under the hood and connecting the winch to the quick connect, then just unplugging it when not in use or when I need to jump someone. I plan on using the Painless kit and not an isolator.
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  #4  
Old January 31st, 2008, 06:44 PM
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It will work just fine. Probably more complicated than you need though.
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  #5  
Old January 31st, 2008, 07:45 PM
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Wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
It will work just fine. Probably more complicated than you need though.
I take suggestions too!

Follow-up Post:

Okay, this is a poll for everyone. I did some searching on this forum to see what people are running for dual batteries and I found mixed views. What is the best dual battery setup for a winch, some lights, and a few accessories? Should I run two plain batteries wired together? Dual batteries with the Painless battery manager kit? Or use a battery isolator?
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  #6  
Old February 1st, 2008, 09:34 AM
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On the wiring; if i understand what you're saying, yes, that's fine. No problem having them on the same circuit as i seriously doubt you'll be giving anyone a jump start while you're winching. If the circuit will support the winch load, jump load will be a piece of pie.
Do not use a quick connect for the winch connections. I've never seen one with enough capacity to support a winch without unwanted voltage drop levels. If you want a disconnect, get a Cole Hersee 2000amp battery disconnect, PN 75907 (2000A intermittent, 300A continuous). For longest motor life and winch power you want the lowest volt drop you can reasonably get, but a max of 0.5 volt drop over the length of the supply side.

As for batteries, I hear fewer complaints about Exide spiral cells than I do Optima. Odessey is very highly rated, and you can get an Odessey made at Sears. Not cheap however.
I run an Exide starting battery and a deep cycle connect through a Schottky Diode isolater.
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  #7  
Old February 2nd, 2008, 12:24 PM
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You could use the battery isolator switch in reverse, to divert power from the battery to either the winch or the jump plug.
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  #8  
Old February 2nd, 2008, 05:50 PM
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I think the same circuit is perfectly fine - as Tom says you are not going to be winching and jumping someone simultaneously. I'm undecided on the dual battery setup, but am interested in hearing opinions too.
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  #9  
Old February 2nd, 2008, 07:12 PM
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Why not use a Perko or Blue Sea battery switch? That seems like an easy way to isolate things, designed to handle the power and are pretty inexpensive. West Marine carries them.
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  #10  
Old February 20th, 2008, 08:34 PM
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J. What did you end up doing? Any pics? I'm looking to go dual batteries and install a distribution panel to wire up my hellas, arb compressor, and winch in the future.
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  #11  
Old February 20th, 2008, 08:45 PM
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Dual Batteries

I ended up using a Blue Sea dual battery switch #6007. I decided to go this route versus the Painless kit to avoid other things that could go wrong (solinoid, extra wires, etc). So under my seat all I have is two batteries, the dual battery switch, and the solinoid for the winch. The dual battery switch handles up to 500 amps I believe, plus when it's in the off position I can remove the knob for security. I also wired in a power quick-connect behind the drivers feet so I can connect jumper cables without having to open the battery compartment. It's not the cleanest instal right now, but it works.
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  #12  
Old February 20th, 2008, 08:55 PM
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Yeah I think the simpler setup is best, as long as the switch doesn't become a point of failure. The only reason I can see these fancy isolator setups being handy is if you have a fridge or something running for days.

Just so I'm on the same page, with this setup the switch allows you to say run both normally, but isolate to one or the other, or disconnect both if needed for some reason, correct?

charles
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  #13  
Old February 21st, 2008, 08:36 AM
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Charles those marine battery switches are made to a pretty high standard (required on expensive yachts by insurance companys). I have three of these on my sportfish and they handle big 8d batterys (the really long ones that weigh 148lbs ea). These are a great way to handle battery switching in a defender. I think I would mount a piece of starboard or some other type of marine plastic wood to the side of the battery box and then mount the switch to that just to have a non conductive mounting base behind the switch.

Follow-up Post:

Charles,

I have some scraps of the starboard here around the house I'll give you if you go that route.
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Old February 21st, 2008, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin

Just so I'm on the same page, with this setup the switch allows you to say run both normally, but isolate to one or the other, or disconnect both if needed for some reason, correct?

charles
You are correct
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  #15  
Old February 22nd, 2008, 12:37 PM
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Thanks guys. Yeah I might take you up on that Doug.

charles
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  #16  
Old February 25th, 2008, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep Rescue
I ended up using a Blue Sea dual battery switch #6007. I decided to go this route versus the Painless kit to avoid other things that could go wrong (solinoid, extra wires, etc). So under my seat all I have is two batteries, the dual battery switch, and the solinoid for the winch. The dual battery switch handles up to 500 amps I believe, plus when it's in the off position I can remove the knob for security. I also wired in a power quick-connect behind the drivers feet so I can connect jumper cables without having to open the battery compartment. It's not the cleanest instal right now, but it works.
The 6007 is only rated at 300amp continuous, 500amp intermittent. You have to be very careful reading ratings for switches and solenoids.
IMO 300 amp isn't high enough if you're feeding a winch through it as most draw on the order of 450 amps at full load. I coudln't find the intermittent rating other than it's 500amp, but things like that are typically 30 seconds on, 3 minutes off for the intermittent duty.
That's why I chose a Cole Hersee 2,000 amp disconnect. Even though it's only 300 amp continous, I got the engineering test results and the curve down from 2000 amps (as amperage goes down, duty cycle goes up) and it will cover my winch load for something like 15 min continuous pull at full load.
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  #17  
Old June 2nd, 2008, 08:19 PM
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Tom - Do you have a source for the Cole Hersee disconnect? I've checked with some local truck parts suppliers and places like Newark, Allied, and Digikey, but have come up empty so far.

Thanks,
Ryan
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  #18  
Old June 2nd, 2008, 08:52 PM
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Check West Marine. The first link is to one similar to the Hersee's rating, the second two are higher continuous amp rating, but the price changes quite dramatically.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...9&classNum=297

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...9&classNum=297

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...9&classNum=297
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Old June 3rd, 2008, 03:53 AM
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Andrew - Thanks for the info. I'll be hitting West Marine sometime this week so I'll check out what they have.
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  #20  
Old June 3rd, 2008, 09:47 AM
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Try boatfix.com for battery switches and isolators. They have Cole-Hersee and other brands at very good prices, usually cheaper than BoatUS and West Marine . I outfitted most of my electronics for my ex-yacht there. If you think defenders are expensive to outfit and fix, you should try a boat.

k kuboske

Follow-up Post:

Heres the link for the switches:

http://boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=118

http://boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=119

Follow-up Post:

http://boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=120
http://boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=121
http://boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=122
http://boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=123
isolators
http://boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=124
http://boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=125
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