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  #21  
Old August 4th, 2013, 11:29 AM
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Neill Thornton
1984 D90 300 Tdi / 1965 Series IIA
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It's only minor aggravation... trust me! We'll still help you out.

Is the code display really that hidden on the 94?

OK, so let's start from the top - Can you confirm that this is all true?
  • The "Service Engine" light is on all the time.
  • The "Check Engine" light is not on.
  • When the engine is cold the trucks runs great with no problem.
  • When the engine is warm (20+ minutes plus) it still runs fine as long as you are giving it gas.
  • When the engine is warm it will die if you are cruising and then suddenly remove your foot from the pedal.

Are there ANY other symptoms or amplifying information we don't have? This still sounds like the stepper motor, but you say you replaced it already.
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  #22  
Old August 4th, 2013, 11:44 AM
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Jason Lavender
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This sounds like the ignition amplifier module to me. These symptoms were very similar to mine (including the strong fuel smell when it would die...which was the amplifier module overcompensating for the motor crapping out and flooding it with gas), and went through a whole range of other fixes (including replacing the fuel pump). Wasn't until I swapped out the amplifier module that my issue was fixed. If that is the case, I'd also do the relocation kit that AB sells while you're at it.

The underhood heat fries these amplifier modules after time, and based on it's location on the side of the distributor and right above the block it takes the brunt of a lot of heat. So having it happen only when the "motor is heated up" could be causing the issue with the module, and that's when it craps out. Just a theory, but if yours is original worth a look or swapping out regardless.
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  #23  
Old August 4th, 2013, 12:11 PM
chuck17
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charles E Hudgins
1994 Defender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
It's only minor aggravation... trust me! We'll still help you out.

Is the code display really that hidden on the 94?

OK, so let's start from the top - Can you confirm that this is all true?
  • The "Service Engine" light is on all the time.
  • The "Check Engine" light is not on.
  • When the engine is cold the trucks runs great with no problem.
  • When the engine is warm (20+ minutes plus) it still runs fine as long as you are giving it gas.
  • When the engine is warm it will die if you are cruising and then suddenly remove your foot from the pedal.

Are there ANY other symptoms or amplifying information we don't have? This still sounds like the stepper motor, but you say you replaced it already.
Yes, Ive spoke with Rover North and others about getting to the code display and even the fuel pump relay is a pain.Just trying to avoid this work , but might end up getting in there anyway. Okay the service light is on all the time. The check engine light only came on once when driven for 30 minutes. yes engine runs fine as long as Im giving it gas. when the engine gets warmed up and i slow down to almost a stop it will cut off. I just replace the stepper motor yes. I have been looking for a hose leak and thing could be the module thats attached to the distributor which I hear when it gets heated will cause the vehicle to cut off. ????? It had been running well. I also noticed it was a quart of oil low... I see no leaks though.?????
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  #24  
Old August 4th, 2013, 12:31 PM
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Neill Thornton
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OK... well the "service engine" light is just a mileage-based thing, you can ignore it. If it bothers you enough you can reset it using a paperclip. The little box is behind the dash.

I think we are down to three things... either you have another crappy stepper motor, or (since you have a 94) the ignition amplifier module, which is a known issue. However do you have any other problems like surging or sputtering at speed? That usually goes along with the ignition module. The last is possibly your vacuum advance going wonky, but I'm pretty sure that usually shows up when you hit the gas, not let up on it.

If it *is* the module, there is a new version with part number STC1856 that is the "heat resistant" version.
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  #25  
Old August 4th, 2013, 06:43 PM
chuck17
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charles E Hudgins
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I appreciate the help. I proble will use paperclip. I guess its possible that the stepper motor is bad. Its simple to change. Th ignition amplifier module could be but not notice any surging or sputtering.
Where is the vacuum advance located?

I thought they have ait for the module thats moves it away from the heat source.
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  #26  
Old August 4th, 2013, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
If it *is* the module, there is a new version with part number STC1856 that is the "heat resistant" version.
I think the STC1856 is just the "relocation" kit, rather than necessarily a heat-resistant version. It still contains the same STC1184 ignition amp module.
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  #27  
Old August 4th, 2013, 08:49 PM
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Bill Adams
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Cutting off on deceleration means the stepper motor is inoperative. The function of the stepper motor is to add air to the plenum when the engine is in an overrun condition. Without this the engine will get choked to death, which is what may be happening to you.
It's called a stepper motor because there is actually a spinning armature that drives a cone shaped plunger. Hole is plugged when running normally, open on deceleration. This is the GM version. The Ford one is just an open/close solenoid.
Also check the T piece and the valve cover breather.
If it dies while running at speed and otherwise normally, then you may have a fuel problem.
If it bucks and stumbles, is hard to start or dies frequently, then you have a bad ignition amplifier module.
Bouncing tachometer is a dying alternator.

You should replace the ignition module with a genuine Lucas one. The aftermarket ones go bad faster.
Trevor at Rovahfarm has them.
The relocation kit is more for the convenience of not having to remove the diz than because the modules overheat on the dizzy. That's an old wive's tale.
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  #28  
Old August 4th, 2013, 11:04 PM
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Bill, i am with you 100% except the ignition modules do cook on the dizzy. There is even a land rover TSB about it.
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  #29  
Old August 5th, 2013, 12:13 PM
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Tyler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
It's only minor aggravation... trust me! We'll still help you out.

Is the code display really that hidden on the 94?

OK, so let's start from the top - Can you confirm that this is all true?

[*]The "Service Engine" light is on all the time.[*]The "Check Engine" light is not on.[*]When the engine is cold the trucks runs great with no problem.[*]When the engine is warm (20+ minutes plus) it still runs fine as long as you are giving it gas.[*]When the engine is warm it will die if you are cruising and then suddenly remove your foot from the pedal.


Are there ANY other symptoms or amplifying information we don't have? This still sounds like the stepper motor, but you say you replaced it already.
The code reader is not well hidden. Two screws on a small trim piece on the very bottom right side of the passenger footwell is where it and the computer are. Takes two seconds to find and remove.
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  #30  
Old August 5th, 2013, 01:46 PM
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A code will probably not divulge anything useful
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #31  
Old August 5th, 2013, 02:03 PM
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Jason England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
A code will probably not divulge anything useful
And I suppose random guess work will lead to a better diagnosis?

At least the code will divulge 'something'.
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  #32  
Old August 5th, 2013, 02:18 PM
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Russell
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What brand was the replacement stepper? Also recall that after replacing, it can take several drives until the 14CUX remaps itself, or whatever it is called.
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  #33  
Old August 5th, 2013, 02:21 PM
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Bill Adams
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Doubt it.

Rover Diagnostic ("Fault") Codes
12 Mass airflow (MAF) sensor or MAF sensor circuit
14 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
15 Fuel temperature sensor (FTS)
17 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
18 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
19 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
21 Tune resistor (open circuit)
23 Fuel system pressure
25 Ignition misfire
28 Air leak
29 Electronic control module (ECM) memory check
34 Injector (or its wiring) - cylinder bank "A"
36 Injector (or its wiring) - cylinder bank "B"
40 Misfire - cylinder bank "A"
44 Oxygen sensor - cylinder bank "A"
45 Oxygen sensor - cylinder bank "B"
48 Idle air control valve (also check the idle speed and road speed sensor)
50 Misfire - cylinder bank "B"
59 "group fault" (it's either an air leak or a fuel supply problem)
68 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
69 Gear selector switch
88 Carbon filter solenoid valve ("purge valve") leak

Hey anything's possible, tho. Maybe it will reveal a fault that is causing the engine to barf. If one were to use only the fault codes to deduce failures, you'd be replacing a lot of stuff before ever getting to the real problem. As you can see from the above list, a fault code wouldn't show up for a bad ignition module, a loose coil wire or a vacuum leak among other things.
Start with the basics. Air, fuel and spark. If the engine isn't running one of those three is missing. If it starts and runs, it it getting all three. Only an outside force, like a bad electrical connection will break the triangle. Sooo, if it's dying on decel, then the engine is running out of air which is a bad stepper motor or its connectivity. If the ECU thinks it is still good, but it isn't then a code won't show.
I'm certainly no expert, just someone who's fixed this stuff a lot.
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  #34  
Old August 5th, 2013, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
What brand was the replacement stepper? Also recall that after replacing, it can take several drives until the 14CUX remaps itself, or whatever it is called.
Not true. Stepper resets every time the engine is shut down, it fully opens ready to start the engine.
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  #35  
Old August 7th, 2013, 01:16 PM
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Loic Fabro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post

Not sure how you could come to this diagnosis unless you have more data than provided in the thread.
You guys are no fun! Was trying to get a cheap D90!
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