Why you should use synthetic oil and change frequently - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 1st, 2009, 09:21 PM
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Why you should use synthetic oil and change frequently

I had Frank do the head gaskets and cross seals on my 1995 RRC LWB as I just did not have time with all my other projects and I hate doing heads. This truck had regular synthetic oil changes since its second owner at about 40k and has 170k now.

Frank said there was basically no sludge in the motor and that the oil pick-up was spotless. He was truly impressed and commented several times that he had not seen one with that high of miles in that kind of shape (heads had never been off before either so it was not like it was somehow recently cleaned).

Ron

PS Yeastie was equally clean, at least from looking down the fill cap, and she had synthetic since new.
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  #2  
Old August 1st, 2009, 09:49 PM
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I have always used synthetic oil, I have bounced from Castro, Mobile1, amsoil since my first time use but always stuck with it.

Engine protection is when there is practically no oil left when I changed the oil once and forgot to tighten the oil filter, drove a few miles down the road with my late father and the engine light come on..afterwards the car just turned off at 25 mph, we both thought it was toast. I tighten the filter, added oil back in...waited 30 minutes for it to cool down & turned it on and it just ran like nothing happened.

gotta love it.
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  #3  
Old August 1st, 2009, 11:05 PM
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I am guessing the 0w40? Ive ran this in Hunter the last couple changes. I think its cleaned all the stuff holding the engine together. Back to the 10w40 M1, the best for the Rover IMO. I hope to pull the top end off my D90 in the coming weeks. I am anxious to see how things look..
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  #4  
Old August 2nd, 2009, 10:02 AM
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On my RRC I went with the Mobil one 10/50 on my last oil change since my engine has 212K on it, I chose the 10/50 because the bearings are getting a bit worn and the extra weight keeps it running quietly without clicking or clacking on startup.

My 110 has 118k and I run Mobile one 10/40 in it.
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  #5  
Old August 2nd, 2009, 10:51 AM
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My 135k+ motor as never had synthetic so is it wise to switch? I'm worried of what might happen to gaskets, etc.. If I went to Mobile 1 what steps should I take to switch?
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Old August 2nd, 2009, 12:00 PM
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I use that Mobil 1 10-50W in my diesel as well. If you read the literature it is ideal for the older engine designs we use and is NOT marked energy-efficient.

Follow-up Post:

Switching causing leaks is an old wives tale, true at one time long ago but today they add seal conditioners to prevent issues.
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  #7  
Old August 2nd, 2009, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
Switching causing leaks is an old wives tale, true at one time long ago but today they add seal conditioners to prevent issues.
I used to back that up... However after a month or so of running 0w-40 in my classic (which had used dino previously) it developed some leaks. I switched back to Rotella t 15w-40 and the leaks disappeared.

I run 0w-40 in the 90, however and it's completely leak free.

There's some truth to both sides. Some are happy with the switch and some aren't I've concluded.
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Old August 2nd, 2009, 12:19 PM
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I wonder if the 0 weight had as much to do with that as the synthetic? In my 140k '97 Land Cruiser I use the Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage but then of course it's a Toyota.
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Old August 2nd, 2009, 12:21 PM
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Whoops. I meant 10w-30 in the classic (That was before I found out it's not very good for our camshafts) and 0w-40 in the 90. So 10w-30 to 15w-40.

Maybe the slightly lighter weight did contribute? I don't know. But it's completely dry now with 15w-40 rotella.
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  #10  
Old August 2nd, 2009, 04:29 PM
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Switch to synthetic now and change oil filter at 1000 miles. If it is heavy (you will be able to tell), keep changing the filter and topping up every 1000 miles until it is not heavy anymore.
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Old August 2nd, 2009, 09:16 PM
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What the synthetic does is clean out the sludge inside your engine with every oil change, so in a higher milage engine which has only run Dino oil this will cause minor leaks since the sludge residue from Dino oil keeps the old brittle seals happy.

I run a bit thicker synthetic oil and the leak is minor...but the engine protection is worth it.
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Old August 4th, 2009, 11:20 AM
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Ron what synthetic are you using?
Thanks
Rich



Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
I had Frank do the head gaskets and cross seals on my 1995 RRC LWB as I just did not have time with all my other projects and I hate doing heads. This truck had regular synthetic oil changes since its second owner at about 40k and has 170k now.

Frank said there was basically no sludge in the motor and that the oil pick-up was spotless. He was truly impressed and commented several times that he had not seen one with that high of miles in that kind of shape (heads had never been off before either so it was not like it was somehow recently cleaned).

Ron

PS Yeastie was equally clean, at least from looking down the fill cap, and she had synthetic since new.
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  #13  
Old August 4th, 2009, 12:10 PM
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If you do oil analysis, you will get different wear numbers with different oils. The best synthetics do give the lowest wear numbers. Change frequency does not matter much as it is fairly hard to get an oil these days that breaks down within the change interval. It is governed by oil contamination which is engine dependant and can only be determined from analysis.

Now for an old school engine like Rover V8, it may not matter a lot. the oil analysis that I've seen on Rover V8s is scary. Wear numbers were 10 times higher than a modern engine.
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Old August 4th, 2009, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campbell
Ron what synthetic are you using?
Thanks
Rich
I vary what I use depending on what I have around, but I like mobil one 0w40 and royal purple 5w40.
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Old September 6th, 2009, 10:30 PM
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Crower hates synthetic and swears we all need ZDDP additives in our motor oil?
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  #16  
Old September 7th, 2009, 01:35 AM
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I would agree on ZDDP for any new cam set up. Synthetic is niether here nor there as far as ZDDP goes. Two seperate issues.
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  #17  
Old September 7th, 2009, 08:56 AM
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So would it be wise to add ZDDP to our old school Rover 3.9's oil???

Per ZDDP's website:

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  #18  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 10:55 AM
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so I am changing the oil in my new "old" truck. It has a 200 tdi and I assume has always been run on dino oil. I have some Mobil one 5w40 synthetic that says it is for diesel trucks that call for 15w40 dino oil.

Should I go with Synthetic? mileage of engine is unknown and it currently has some oil leaks. if I do go with Synthetic should I then change the oil and filter in about 1000 miles to catch any junk that breaks free? or should I mix with dino and synthetic and slowly break into full synthetic?
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  #19  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 11:09 AM
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Been running synthetic for 2 years in my 200tdi and here with cold weather I wouldn't want I it any other way. Haven't had engine related problem since an mine is my daily driver.

I wouldn't recommend mixing oils types.

Pat
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  #20  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 11:11 AM
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Todd,
Make sure the oil is rated for diesel. Thats actually a big deal. I run the Shell Rotella T6 5-40 synthetic year round. The first oil change on one of these I always add a quart of Rislone. It totally removes all sludge but you should change the oil in about 1000 miles. I did this the first two changes in my 300 and it cleaned things up a lot. I have heard you shouldn't mix synthetic and dino due to additives in the oil breaking down quicker.
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