Who sells galvanized D90 sliders - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:01 PM
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Who sells galvanized D90 sliders

I can't seem to find any and I don't want black.
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  #2  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:06 PM
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http://www.dap-inc.com/acc/app/df/df...usp.shtml#prot
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  #3  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:11 PM
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Zinc, when heated that hot, turns into a poisonous gas. So most people don't mess with it.

Also, you can't use plain welding wire to weld galvanized material. The zinc will "run" to the center of the weld before the weld is cool and cause cracking in the center of your weld. To avoid this, you need to use something like a silicon bronze (Er-CuSi-A) electrode. Again, most people don't have this stuff on-hand or mess with it.

Go buy some silver spray paint.

------ Follow up post added March 17th, 2011 03:12 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by wcampbel@nas.edu View Post
lol.

He'd be better off with pressure treated 2x4's.
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  #4  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:20 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Wouldn't you weld the material and then galvanize it?
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  #5  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:30 PM
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I am building a set this weekend for myself and plan to have them galvanized after the expo.

If there is enough interest and you guys can agree on a design I could do up a batch and have them galvanized.

Might do something simple with the option of adding tree sliders.
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  #6  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:40 PM
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Wouldn't you weld the material and then galvanize it?
Those would be some expensive sliders.
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  #7  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:50 PM
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AB sells the Terafirma ones, special order. Just got the galv ones for my 110, I'd assume you can get them for a 90.
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  #8  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:51 PM
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I guess I thought that most people took stuff to get hot dipped after it was welded. Is that not true?
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  #9  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:55 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcampbel@nas.edu View Post
I guess I thought that most people took stuff to get hot dipped after it was welded. Is that not true?
Yes I'd bet any product offered galvanized is galvanized after construction. Most of the time you'll see people offer a choice of finish - bare, paint, powdercoated, or galvanized.
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  #10  
Old March 17th, 2011, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcampbel@nas.edu View Post
I guess I thought that most people took stuff to get hot dipped after it was welded. Is that not true?
Yes, it would be pointless to buy galvanized steel and try and weld it. You just need holes for air to escape and the molten zinc to drain from.
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  #11  
Old March 17th, 2011, 04:00 PM
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Those would be some expensive sliders.
I don't get this. In quantity, galvanizing is about as expensive as paint/powdercoating.
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Old March 17th, 2011, 04:34 PM
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Surely for sliders ... as soon as you 'slide' on them you'll remove the galv .... and then they'll rust??
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  #13  
Old March 17th, 2011, 04:40 PM
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Surely for sliders ... as soon as you 'slide' on them you'll remove the galv .... and then they'll rust??
Yes they will... however unlike powder coating or paint the rust will not spread underneath causing the rest of the galvanizing to come off.
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  #14  
Old March 17th, 2011, 04:41 PM
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Surely for sliders ... as soon as you 'slide' on them you'll remove the galv .... and then they'll rust??
Maybe in spots, but you won't have problems like them rusting inside out of rusting themselves to the tube you insert them in.
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  #15  
Old March 17th, 2011, 07:59 PM
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Safari Equipe claims their sliders are galvanized then powdercoated
http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php?page=49
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  #16  
Old March 17th, 2011, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
Those would be some expensive sliders.
Not at all really. Galvy is very inexpensive to do. Cheaper than powder or paint by far.
I galvanize shop fabricated items on almost every build. bumpers, sliders, control arms, frames, bulkheads, even roll cages. Ive done defenders were pretty much every bit of steel in the truck is galvanized.
It is still better to use high silicon wire if mig welding as the zinc will have a high build on regular wire....as in if you grind anything flush the weld will show through
You can powder coat over zinc, it actually adheres incredibly well and you can paint over it with the right primer or some coating shops will use a galvy coating that is designed especially for painting .You should check with your galvanizer before sandblasting anything as this will sometimes not lead to a good finish result. I personally try to avoid sandblasting anything that will be galvanized and prefer chemical stripping and media blasting..
If the zinc gets scratched off (small scratches) it will not rust as the galvanic action will migrate.
Most galvanizing shops will sell 100% galvy touch up "paint" for damage repair. Not to be confused with aerosol "cold galvanizing" at all.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #17  
Old March 17th, 2011, 08:58 PM
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Matt, don't lie dude........... you stayed at the Holiday Inn Express didn't you....
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  #18  
Old March 18th, 2011, 08:12 AM
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yup, and while I was there I galvanized the door knobs.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #19  
Old March 18th, 2011, 09:14 AM
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Having items galvanized, around my home area, will run a minimum of $200.00. This is the minimum charge to run the tank. Materials and prep are additional. So if you're going to coat several sets of sliders, sure the cost is not too bad if you break it down per slider. But coating one set alone is expensive.

As mentioned, holes needs to be drilled into your sliders prior to the hot dip. If vents and drains are not drilled, closed ends or sealed hollow sections can explode during the process. The problem you have, though, is if the zinc does not flow and stick to the inside of your sliders. It's hard to get all of the oil, rust, and debris out of the center of the slider. If the surface is not prep'ed and clean, the zinc will not stick, the metal will rust, and the rust will "run" out of your drain and vent holes causing staining. So you need to be mindful as to where you drill your holes. Course, you don't want your sliders to fill up with water, either.

Adding powder coating over the top of galvanizing is tricky. It can be done, but it's not as easy as just doing it. More special prep has to be done to avoid "pinning" or "fisheying". Also, some cooling liquids used in galvanizing leave a film over the product that powder coating will not stick to.

....not to mention even more associated costs with adding powder coating over the top of galvanizing.
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  #20  
Old March 18th, 2011, 09:37 AM
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I've done a couple of loads of galvy with powder coat over. Minimum is only 150 bucks locally and they are acid cleaned first, hot dipped, air dried, sanded, and them powdered. They have held up well, even on my rear corners which have taken some scrapes. There are pics in my "Goat Surgery" thread down page 3&4 in the Truck Builds and Restores forum.
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