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Old March 18th, 2011, 08:45 AM
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Daniel Chapman
1999 D1
Join Date: May 2004
Location: VA
Posts: 762
$150 for prep, galvi, and powder???? That's cheap as shit if so. Tami had the shitty Rovertym powder coating sandblasted off her LR3 bumper ($80.00), and the powder finish (thermoset) was $400.00.

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Old March 18th, 2011, 09:10 AM
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Kevin Buckley
1973 coiler
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Guilderland,NY
Posts: 1,462
Yep, I stripped them first but they do the whole chemical dip, hot dip, and PC for that.

'73 SeriesIII coiler,"The Goat", Daihatsu 2.8TD,Santana,Ashcroft,ARB's,etc., now SOLD
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Old March 18th, 2011, 01:41 PM
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Tony Sims
1984 110
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: White Salmon, WA
Posts: 462
My sliders are painted. I figure I can afford a lot of rattle cans for the price of galvanising, and powder coating sliders is just dumb unless you only drive to the mall.
[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
Originally Posted by chris snell
This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
1984 110 "Smokey" (sold)
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Old March 18th, 2011, 02:06 PM
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oil soaked filter
95 RRC 300tdi
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: No. Berwick, Maine
Posts: 1,253
As usual everything is more complicated in Daniels world.

Yes there are minimum sharges.....it is actually closer to $350 around here (500lb). I do large batches that generally run 2k or more. If I don't have enough (rare) it's not usually that hard to split it with someone.

Vent holes are not just for expansion. If you dont have them some parts will actually float. You also need to place the holes so that they will let the zinc in AND back out or you end up with a steel coated zinc ingot.

New work only requires very minimal venting (1/4" holes.)

Old work that may have rust inside will require large holes to allow the acid bath to remove all the junk.

A good shop understands this and I have yet to have these staining issues you mention. I have work in the shop now that has been driven in the NE winters for a decade and has yet to bleed.

The only unusual prep my PC shop does is warm water wash and rub down with scotchbright. You can hardly break the surface with a hammer, and in general I'd have to say it is better than going over bare steel.
Matt Browne

www.overlandengineering.com new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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Old March 18th, 2011, 02:25 PM
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Don Andrews
'94 NAS D90 #CDN-80, 2011 LR4
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 162
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I can't seem to find any and I don't want black.

I bought a nice set from the UK from FirstFour offroad... a black set with tree sliders that double as steps... they also sell the galv ones.

Tools me about 15m to install em... I documented it in this link:
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Old March 20th, 2011, 08:00 AM
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Andrew J. Hutton
1993 Defender 110 200TDI
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 735
You want galvanized and then sprayed with bedliner for sliders, in between use a Zinc chromate primer to get adhesion to the zinc and then an adhesion promoter to get the bedliner to stick really well. Works great, I do this when I re-galvanize inner fenders and bumpers and it lasts way better than anything else.

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