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  #21  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 05:51 PM
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Hans Haase
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When swapping in the new distributor, you need to remove the gear off the old one and transfer it to the new distributor. You could also buy it separately, but they are hard to find and fairly pricey.
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  #22  
Old March 24th, 2007, 05:56 PM
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David
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The Mallory with the new E-spark appears to be the way to go, and that's probably what I'll do. That being said, I'm still interested in what anyone might have to say about the Ford Duraspark retrofit.........that would certainly be the fastest way to get this rig up and running; however, if it's likely to have the same problem(s), I'd want to know up front.....any opinions on that fix?
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  #23  
Old April 4th, 2007, 12:02 PM
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnp
The Mallory with the new E-spark appears to be the way to go, and that's probably what I'll do. That being said, I'm still interested in what anyone might have to say about the Ford Duraspark retrofit.........that would certainly be the fastest way to get this rig up and running; however, if it's likely to have the same problem(s), I'd want to know up front.....any opinions on that fix?
Anyone have any comments on the Ford Duraspark retrofit? My truck's been DOA for a couple of weeks now, and I'm trying to make a decision on what to do about my bad ignition system.

The story is: My original distributor shaft was wiped out, and I ordered a new, aftermarket distributor (with ignition module and pick-up coil) from RN. I installed it, drove it about 25 miles, and the IM blew out. Returned everything to RN, they sent out a complete new aftermarket dizzy and IM, I installed it, drove it 1.3 miles, and the IM blew again. To RN's compliment, they have been really good to work with, and they're sending out a new, OEM IM as soon as they're in stock. In the meantime, I'm starting to lose faith in the reliability of my truck. Chances are, these were defective modules, and the installation of a good one will correct the problem; however, if you've dealt with these types of issues, you know it's sometimes hard to regain confidence in a truck that's let you down repeatedly.....

All that being said, I'm wondering what's the best PERMANENT solution to this issue? Is it (a) to replace the IM with an OEM unit and see what happens (easiest, but not the fastest), (b) try the Ford Duraspark retrofit (waiting to see what those of you more knowledgeable than I have to say about that change), or (c) do away with everything factory, and change over to the new (more modern?) Mallory dizzy, coil and resistor.............I'm starting to lean toward the Mallory, but the Ford would certainly be cheaper and much faster..........I just want the best, most-likely-permanent solution. Anyone have any comments on my scenario?
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  #24  
Old April 4th, 2007, 01:12 PM
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Chris Davis
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There is a guy at Century Performance (three letter name, can recall it, but I think it is Rob--it is the main guy) that has extensive experience with the Buick 215 and Rover engines--you can give him a call, too. www.centuryperformance.com I found him to be very, very helpful, their prices were very good. That is who I got my Mallory from...
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  #25  
Old April 4th, 2007, 01:47 PM
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Jack Walter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnp
All that being said, I'm wondering what's the best PERMANENT solution to this issue? Is it (a) to replace the IM with an OEM unit and see what happens (easiest, but not the fastest), (b) try the Ford Duraspark retrofit (waiting to see what those of you more knowledgeable than I have to say about that change), or (c) do away with everything factory, and change over to the new (more modern?) Mallory dizzy, coil and resistor.............I'm starting to lean toward the Mallory, but the Ford would certainly be cheaper and much faster..........I just want the best, most-likely-permanent solution. Anyone have any comments on my scenario?
Not the most cost effective answer but certainly a permanent one is do away with the ignition system altogether - yet another reason I love my Tdi.........
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  #26  
Old April 4th, 2007, 03:59 PM
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackW
Not the most cost effective answer but certainly a permanent one is do away with the ignition system altogether - yet another reason I love my Tdi.........
I've actually had a fleeting thought about that........if you don't mind, could you tell me (a) did you do it yourself or did you have it done by someone, and (b) what should one expect to pay for a total changeover like that? Feel free to PM me if you're reluctant to post that info here......Thanks!
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  #27  
Old April 7th, 2007, 03:15 PM
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Loic Fabro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnp
The story is: My original distributor shaft was wiped out, and I ordered a new, aftermarket distributor (with ignition module and pick-up coil) from RN. I installed it, drove it about 25 miles, and the IM blew out. Returned everything to RN, they sent out a complete new aftermarket dizzy and IM, I installed it, drove it 1.3 miles, and the IM blew again.
Did you check that you had a good ground? Because bad ground can easily lead to this symptoms.... It only takes a few additional volts from the alternator to blow a lot of stuff.
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  #28  
Old April 8th, 2007, 05:16 PM
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottYates
Here is the part info and prices from Summit Racing (best I could find, YMMV):

MAA-29219 IGNITION COIL $43.99
MAA-4768901 DISTBUTOR WITHOUT GEAR $315.99
MAA-700 RESISTOR $14.88

I also got wires from the idiots at Auto Zone (coil wire to short) so I won't give you that one lol.
Just use the gear of your old distributor. It is very easy to put on and the instructions are great. This distributer, unlike the older Unilite, does NOT require you to cut the shaft. My whole install took about an hour and fifteen minutes.
Hope this helps,
-Scott
Thanks for the advice, and though I contemplated making the Ford Duraspark retrofit, I decided to go with the total, non-Land Rover, Malloy changeover. Though considerably more expensive, I just needed the peace of mind that I was likely going to cure the problem, rather than simply patching an existing one.

From Amazon, the prices were:

Mallory 4768901 Distributor $299.15
Mallory 29219 Coil $42.92
Mallory 700 Resistor $13.39

That being said, I read somewhere on the web that the 29219 Ignition Coil doesn't need / require the use of the ballast resistor. Scott, did you use this resistor anyway? Just want to make sure that a possible "doubling up" on resistors wouldn't cause any problems.......I plan to contact Mr. Gasket in the a.m., so I'll let you know if there's any problem with using the two together.
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  #29  
Old April 8th, 2007, 05:33 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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I was looking at the MSD Blaster Off-Road coil but this made me wonder...do I need a resistor or can I just plug it in? Do you need the resistor with any Non-OEM coil, or just certain ones? Anyone know or have experience with the MSD?

P.S. Sorry for the Hi-Jack
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  #30  
Old June 22nd, 2007, 02:00 PM
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Heath Ahrens
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I have bought a new MSD blaster off-road coil from ebay a while ago... It worked accept for a power surge that occured in RPMs between 2000 and 2400. Replaced with another coil and the problem went away instantly. Maybe the coil was defective?
I did not have good luck with it, needless to say.
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  #31  
Old August 22nd, 2008, 03:14 PM
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Clay DeWan
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The guy's name at CenturyPerformance is Sam and I agree with Chris that he seems quite knowledgeable.
I just purchased a MAL-6855M
Product: IGN, HYFIRE 6-EZ W/COIL
which is a multispark discharge unit that uses your existing coil to trigger the box and new coil and will work with the stock distributor or down the line you can update your distributor and use this unit. Cost was about $190.
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