The guys at D&D engine builders STRONGLY recommend a specific Crower cam (www.aluminumv8.com
). The one thing to remember is that you might need new valvesprings too if you are swapping cams. I'd ask the guy what he recommends. That starts to get tricky to do without removing the heads, thought it is possible. I believe they have some tools that use air pressure or other methods to hold the valves in place. If you go with a cam that doesn't need new valvesprings, then you don't have to even worry about removing the heads unless you want to.
IF you do remove the heads, go with new bolts. I used ARP head studs, but regular head bolts will work too at half the price. Choosing between composite or steel is up to you, I went composite for the better sealing, but the composite will drop the compression ratio. Make sure to look up (or ask) for the revised torque specs either way. Definitely spring for the composite valley gasket and newer valve cover gaskets, as they make a big difference for those areas.
If you do it in the truck, you will have to remove the radiator and grill. While it's out, go to a radiator shop and have them put a damned drain spigot on the thing... what a Pain In The Ass without one.
Of all the things to do, you MUST take the oil pump apart, pack it full of vaseline, and prime up the oil system before starting the engine. I used a 12mm socket driven by an electric drill down on the oil pump driveshaft and spun things until oil was dripping out the top of the pushrods.