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Wheel Bearings and stub bearings

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4K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Jase 
#1 ·
Well the right front wheel on my truck is making some noise, i removed the drive flange and it was full of dried grease. The outer bearing is shot.

I want to replace all of the bearings, seals in both front hubs.

Questions:

1. Should I also replace the rear bronze bush behind the mud shield on the stub axle and the associated rear seal? 5 & 6 in the attached pic

2. Should the exterior drive flange (that the dust cap goes onto) have any play in the splines that interface with the stub axle end?

3. Are the HD drive flanges that RN carries worth the coin? also do they require any modifications to run?

4. What hub seal kit is for my early 110?

https://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5565-hub-seal-kit-range-rover-classic-defender-discovery-i.aspx
OR
https://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5566-hub-seal-kit-front-spindle-defender-110.aspx

5. What size is the axle retaining nut, that holds the drive hub on?


attached is hub exploded view
 

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#4 ·
I bought a set of the drive flanges for my 110 after a bit of confusion with which ones I needed. They went on with no trouble. I would recomend blue locktite on the cover nuts as they did come loose at first. Unless you have wheeel spacers forget getting your center caps on.
 
#5 ·
do they still use the circlip? any play between them and the end of the stub axle?

------ Follow up post added March 9th, 2011 11:37 PM ------

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_w0BV-oXJXo

This dudes video shows the outer drive flange off the truck. We have the same type of play tho. I can move my drive flange left to right with out the halfshaft moving the like this with the hub fully assembled. Are my splines on the drive flange worn or is this ok on a LR?
 
#6 ·
That video doesn't show anything unusual. The drive flange is what locates the end of the axle. They wear, and if you don't replace them, the axle wears, and then you get to replace both. I'm not convinced the aftermarket HD flanges are worth the money. The factory part lasts along time if you keep it greased and keep the cap on, and they are cheap to replace when the time comes.

The seal in the inside of the stub axle has a pretty long life, I wouldn't bother replacing it unless you see signs that gear oil is leaking past it.

Use the parts books here (the 90 book is better for early trucks) and your VIN to determine what P/N's you need for bearings, seals, etc.
 
#7 ·
I eneded up getting new drive flanges, RN wanted 235 a piece for the originals, SO i opted for the HD aftermarket version that were $85 for the pair.

Turns out my truck only uses one oil seal on the rear, and the drive flange holds the grease up front
 
#10 ·
1) While its disassembled you might as well replace the bronze bushing
2) check the spline count on the axle and the HD Flange. 24 spline is most common but some are 32, make certain you have the correct parts.
3) get the cheap steel socket, you need the depth it allows.
 
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