Wheel bearing/stub axle nuts - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 25th, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Wheel bearing/stub axle nuts

I read somewhere that you should torx the inside nut down to 60nm To seat everything) and then slack it off one half turn. I did this and it seems really loose after backing it off, has anyone done it this way?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old January 25th, 2011, 12:33 PM
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Torque it down to seat everything, back it off and then retorque to spec, which I just do by feel.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 06:11 PM
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Yeah, that's what I thought, just not sure how snug "to feel" should be?
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  #4  
Old January 25th, 2011, 06:26 PM
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You want .010mm end float for the hub once the outer nut is torqued.
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  #5  
Old January 25th, 2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaco1 View Post
Yeah, that's what I thought, just not sure how snug "to feel" should be?
To me it's 2 greasy hands held loosely on the hub socket, turned to "bottom" with almost no torque.
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  #6  
Old January 25th, 2011, 10:12 PM
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"Turned to bottom"? The greasy hand part is what I have tried.

As far as shaft end play, do I need one of those fancy dial thingys like in the manual?
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  #7  
Old January 25th, 2011, 10:51 PM
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Well, the manual says remove all end float, turn anti-clockwise 90 degrees then torque to 10lbft, which I guess in theory gives you the .010mm end float.
After a few years doing it with a dial indicator I just do it by feel which is impossible to describe.
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  #8  
Old January 25th, 2011, 10:57 PM
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Thanks,
Is that the same end float you control with the spacers behind c-clip on the end of the axle? Or is that something else?
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  #9  
Old January 25th, 2011, 11:19 PM
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I trusted the manual for a while but gave up because I was getting too much slack. I tighten it down nice and snug. I then make sure the rotor still rotates. Remember new grease is going to smear into small spaces so your tollerence will give after say 2000 miles. I have yet to burn out a wheel bearing being too tight. Just make sure it it snug and the rotor spins.

C-clip goes on at the end. No real space needed for that. If you put the flange on and it pushes the axle end (c-clip slot) with it, then take one of the flange bolts and screw it into the end of the axle and pull it out then put the c-clip on.
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  #10  
Old January 26th, 2011, 10:00 AM
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I like to back it off at least 3-times when seating the hub with fresh grease. You can tighten that nut with all your might, back it off a 1/4 turn, then re-tighten another 3/4 of a turn. I do this 3-times. I also do not follow any of the steps in the book -- ".010 end float"? WTF is that? Just tighten the damn nut and be done. Just make sure the hub is seated and everything is snug.
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  #11  
Old January 26th, 2011, 10:56 AM
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I just did my bearings a few weeks ago. torqued to factory settings to seat the bearing (ithink it was 45lbs) backed off and retorqued to running setting (it think it was 7.5lbs). Once you bend over the washer it the nut is set and will not move. Everything seems to be working fine.
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  #12  
Old January 26th, 2011, 11:19 AM
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Keep in mind that when you torque the outer nut it loads the bearings more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
".010 end float"? WTF is that?.
The amount of axial movement between the hub and the stub axle.
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  #13  
Old January 26th, 2011, 12:53 PM
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Also make sure to check it in 2-3 months of use. Everything settles in and you may feel them getting loose. You can usually tell if they are loose if you press the brake and it goes very low, then the second press is higher up.

I am going to order the new lock nuts and try them out. Slaughter has them on his Td5 and they seem 100 time better.
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFE..._XA159807.html
You thread them on, and punch the outer lip to prevent it from loosening. One nut and thats it!

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  #14  
Old January 26th, 2011, 02:32 PM
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what a PITA that would be. no thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
Also make sure to check it in 2-3 months of use. Everything settles in and you may feel them getting loose. You can usually tell if they are loose if you press the brake and it goes very low, then the second press is higher up.

I am going to order the new lock nuts and try them out. Slaughter has them on his Td5 and they seem 100 time better.
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFE..._XA159807.html
You thread them on, and punch the outer lip to prevent it from loosening. One nut and thats it!

Group Buy!?
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  #15  
Old January 26th, 2011, 03:15 PM
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I believe nuts should come in pairs
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  #16  
Old January 26th, 2011, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
what a PITA that would be. no thanks.
x2

If I'm replacing the bearings I seat the cups with a 20 ton press then give them a a good whack all around with a brass punch.
When installing the hub I torque the inner nut while rotating the hub until it's very difficult to rotate, back off and repeat several times.
Then I adjust them so that I have the correct end float with the outer nut tightened, lock them, and they don't loosen.
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Tom Rowe
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
95 DI 5-speed
95 D90 5-speed
97 D1 Automatic
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  #17  
Old January 26th, 2011, 07:33 PM
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key word is "check"... Takes 4 seconds to feel if you have a wobble, Not that hard to do
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  #18  
Old January 30th, 2011, 03:02 AM
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Going to bump your thread. KevinNY do you still have the Beretta Mato for sale?
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