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  #41  
Old May 15th, 2009, 12:22 AM
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Scott Y
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I have had my D90 SW since it had 6 miles on the clock. Always had slop!
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  #42  
Old May 15th, 2009, 07:11 AM
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How many miles are you up to now?
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  #43  
Old May 15th, 2009, 07:15 AM
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What's up with the Slop in the Drivetrain?

Created a new thread and merged them together to correct a spelling error in the title in order to make this thread more likely to turn up in search results.
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  #44  
Old May 15th, 2009, 08:23 AM
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I'm telling you guys, I fixed it. If you want to get rid of it, drop the front radius arms and get a Q box from a D2.

Not worth the money inho, but I am sure I know what causes it.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #45  
Old May 15th, 2009, 09:25 AM
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I have been on a long quest to find and eliminate slop in my 110, I have traced the majority of it to worn splines on the mainshaft of the manual gearbox. No easy fix other than pulling it and rebuilding it since it doesn't have that groovy detachable spud shaft like the ZF does.

Until something breaks I am just driving it with more finesse than I would drive my other trucks.
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  #46  
Old May 15th, 2009, 09:26 AM
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Scott Y
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I now have 88.5K miles on it. It was my daily driver from Jan 96 to Jun 02. Then it was "retired" to Nantucket as our beach vehicle. Brought it back to Arizona last summer for a winter long rehab, heading back east with it next weekend, looking as good as new. Spent every weekend day since January working on it, including fixing the dents in the aluminum foil thin doors and respray from the doors forward.
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  #47  
Old July 29th, 2009, 08:46 PM
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john
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
I'm telling you guys, I fixed it. If you want to get rid of it, drop the front radius arms and get a Q box from a D2.

Not worth the money inho, but I am sure I know what causes it.
Is this a direct replacement for the T? I blew my Tcase and thinking I would go with the Q if it didnt need to be modded.
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  #48  
Old July 29th, 2009, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37
Is this a direct replacement for the T? I blew my Tcase and thinking I would go with the Q if it didnt need to be modded.
It's a direct replacement as far as I know. It's a 1.2 also. Eddie did mine so I don't have any other details that may be helpful.

Good luck.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #49  
Old June 7th, 2015, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovered View Post
I have been on a long quest to find and eliminate slop in my 110, I have traced the majority of it to worn splines on the mainshaft of the manual gearbox. No easy fix other than pulling it and rebuilding it since it doesn't have that groovy detachable spud shaft like the ZF does. Until something breaks I am just driving it with more finesse than I would drive my other trucks.
Anyone know what a detachable Spud Shaft is?
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  #50  
Old June 7th, 2015, 08:02 AM
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The ZF to Lt230 needs a little shaft extension. Suspect thats what he is calling a spud shaft. Its all very technical and over my head.
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  #51  
Old June 7th, 2015, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
The ZF to Lt230 needs a little shaft extension. Suspect thats what he is calling a spud shaft. Its all very technical and over my head.
Thanks, just wondering cause it sounds like, based on the posts here, the slop in my driveline is normal but hard to tell given the majority are manual trans guys.
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  #52  
Old June 7th, 2015, 11:40 AM
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This is the measure of slop in my 97NAS that I'm dealing with. I don't know if this a fair and accurate way to read it. With rear wheels off the ground I marked a point on the ebrake drum and turned rear drive shaft with both hands( to maximize the reading) and marked where it stopped. It's about 4 inches of movement, mark to mark.

I've recently been getting a low rumbling sound at low speeds and a growl when I let off the peddle on the road. I'm trying to figure out if the rumbling is caused by this slop or if this slop has caused wear in the diff.

I've checked tcase fluids, and rear shaft wear. No problems there. Next I guess is to pull the rear diff.
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  #53  
Old June 8th, 2015, 08:48 PM
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My 110 has one of the tightest drivelines I've driven in a used truck. Just about the same as my 14 jeep. I can rough shift it and let it bounce against the engine and no "clok clok" slop. Though I'm sure its a matter of time.

My 73 SIII had tons of slop (it was also popping out of 2nd). rebuilt the transmission ... er rather... put series III guts in a IIA case and swapped bell housings/input shaft and 2nd gear related stuffs, and most of the slop was gone. Think it was mostly transmission case stretch. Re-used a lot of parts between the cases. But the slop was gone.
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  #54  
Old June 8th, 2015, 08:51 PM
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As much as I hate to admit it, the clunking slop was driving me insane so a had a rebuilt LT230Q installed and the difference is amazing!

Although I still think I paid too much.

FWIW..
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  #55  
Old June 8th, 2015, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Anyone know what a detachable Spud Shaft is?
For some reason, I keep thinking of a certain song by King Missile
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  #56  
Old June 9th, 2015, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
For some reason, I keep thinking of a certain song by King Missile
I'll bet these cost more than $22 bucks! Even if you talk him down to $17! ;-)

And if you missed it;

http://youtu.be/byDiILrNbM4
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  #57  
Old June 9th, 2015, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
It bolts to the back of the ZF and goes into the LT230. it makes the spline wear issue an easier fix on an auto than on a 5spd. -Jeff
thanks Gents. I need to look into this.
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  #58  
Old June 12th, 2015, 02:15 PM
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I had the same slop so bad that I got worried about driving my 110. Asked all the tranny people I know and was told to start at the gap between crown and pinion drive gears. Never opened a landy diff before. I have 132,000 miles.
Opened it and found a Salisbury diff yech. Was given a piece of shim ( cut to bearing base diameter) by tranny guy to insert between inner pinion bearing and the casing, thinner than a razor blade ( cant remember the spec thickness). this moves the pinion about .02 mm? closer to the crown wheel for a better mesh. I was skeptical but it removed about 70% of the slop. Now searching for the rest of the slop somewhere at the gearbox output.....?
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  #59  
Old June 12th, 2015, 02:57 PM
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Nathan Harrison
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FTC5090 is the spud shaft #
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  #60  
Old June 12th, 2015, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
This is the measure of slop in my 97NAS that I'm dealing with. I don't know if this a fair and accurate way to read it. With rear wheels off the ground I marked a point on the ebrake drum and turned rear drive shaft with both hands( to maximize the reading) and marked where it stopped. It's about 4 inches of movement, mark to mark.

I've recently been getting a low rumbling sound at low speeds and a growl when I let off the peddle on the road. I'm trying to figure out if the rumbling is caused by this slop or if this slop has caused wear in the diff.

I've checked tcase fluids, and rear shaft wear. No problems there. Next I guess is to pull the rear diff.
Trouble shooting continues. Pulled the front drive shaft and rolled at slow speed down my street. The rumbling was very pronounced and unmistakably coming from the rear diff. Pulled the diff to send to GBR for a check up. They built for me almost 11 years ago. Reinstalling my stock diff in the meantime.
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