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  #1  
Old January 6th, 2012, 10:40 PM
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Jay S
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Whats this part called?

Is this one piece or more then one? Mine is totally rusted and I worry my kids are going to need their tetanus shot boosters to keep climbing over it - any one have the part number or a link to the part?

can I remove/replace this without taking the truck apart?

my kids thank you

Jay
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  #2  
Old January 6th, 2012, 11:05 PM
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Scott Preston
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That is called a T-post and includes the vertical door post as well. It's one piece. You will need to remove both doors and drill out the pop rivets that connect it to the rear bed. You will also need to remove the floors. You will need to repaint it to match the truck as well as the new pop rivets in the rear bed if you want. Not a bad job just expensive. sorry
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  #3  
Old January 6th, 2012, 11:05 PM
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B-pillar, also includes the vertical portion between the 1st and 2nd row doors. Small PITA.
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  #4  
Old January 6th, 2012, 11:20 PM
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barry f
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Do you have door seals mounted to them? If so is that where it is rusting?
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  #5  
Old January 6th, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Jay S
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there is nothing left of the door seal on the rear doors - and I stare at that rusted sill everyday - and watch my kids climb on it - really the only noticeable rust on the body - I think - Ill take a picture for you tomorrow but need to get up to la so you can see my 110 soon
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  #6  
Old January 6th, 2012, 11:33 PM
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finally found it this right
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  #7  
Old January 6th, 2012, 11:46 PM
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anyone know where to find one?
or two for that matter none of the uk sites have pictures of anything to verify Im looking at the right thing

this

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=138902

or this

http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/pro..._from_1986.php

I have a 84 so not sure if its different

and not sure its worth the cost right now! that could buy alot of tetanus shots
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  #8  
Old January 6th, 2012, 11:52 PM
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barry f
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On my 110, I removed the seals on the sills, drilled out the spot rivets, removed the rusted sills, Fixed the metal underneath and finally put the seals on the bottoms of the doors. ECR does it to all the NAS 110s. It is a pain but a very doable job at home.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #9  
Old January 6th, 2012, 11:55 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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http://WWW.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk...l-ns-235-p.asp

These guys have nice galvanized sills and all the other little galvy pieces that you might need. The shipping is not bad at all
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  #10  
Old January 7th, 2012, 12:28 AM
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barry f
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If I did it again, I would drill out spot rivets, grind off rust, prime and put these on:

http://www.entreq.de/products/interi...ce-strips.html
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #11  
Old January 7th, 2012, 12:33 AM
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barry you have not see the "rust" think more like a granola bar not something with surface rust - I dont think I could stop grinding once I started

i think i might get those from yrm along with a few other pieces - then beg people to come over and do some heavy lifting with doors etc

J
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  #12  
Old January 7th, 2012, 12:50 AM
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i would say the entire length bulkhead to behind the rear door - I have realistic expectations for my truck and i dont want to get into a complete tear down - more for what I would find but I want it to not stab my kids as they get in and out so I think I want to at least replace things that would make the truck better in the short term if its something that doesnt cost a arm and a leg and I could tackle mostly myself
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  #13  
Old January 7th, 2012, 12:56 AM
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pics would help
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #14  
Old January 7th, 2012, 01:06 AM
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here you go - front right and rear right

they are worse in person my phone doesnt capture their true rusted nature
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  #15  
Old January 7th, 2012, 01:21 AM
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looks like surface rust to me
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #16  
Old January 7th, 2012, 06:35 AM
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Not to bad! just use some sand paper and see if you can see some shining metal underneath this rust.
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  #17  
Old January 7th, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Jay,
if it were completely swiss cheese, I'd say go through the hassel of replacing the part, but since it is surface rust and not structural, my advice would be to:
1) wire brush throughly as possible;
2) treat with rust nuetralizer;
3) paint two coats of POR-15;
4) get some rattle cans of Stratos Blue made up and finish it off.

that would be a weekend project as opposed to tearing apart the truck. While your at it, order additional POR-15 and treat all the areas you want to save until you end up doing a major tear down.

Replacing that T-post as a short-term solution would drive you nuts and take way too long. Also, if you look for two rear steps on the board or RN, the kids probably won't even come into contact wit the sills when their climbing in and out. That would be my solution. The worst thing you can do is throw money at partial fixes. They add up and by the time you're done with all these little fixes, you probably could have torn the truck down to the frame and replaced everything at once for less.

Anyway, that's what I'd do. Others may agree or disagree, but knowing your purpose and intent, I think that's the best way to go.

Also, I'll send you those interior pieces first thing next week.
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  #18  
Old January 7th, 2012, 08:00 PM
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John Crouse
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Jay I replaced both B-pillars on my 110 last year. It really wasn't that hard. I did galvanize mine before installing and that actually made the job 1000% harder. Shoot me a note if you want to discuss. Check with Eric at Atlantic British (He's on the forum). That's where I got mine.
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