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  #81  
Old August 13th, 2014, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonesy View Post
Jimmy - DONT use the crower lifters.....JUST DONT....

Get the Land Rover OEM ones.
Too late now...

Why not? I haven't had a problem with them before.
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  #82  
Old August 13th, 2014, 12:27 PM
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some people think they are noisy
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  #83  
Old August 13th, 2014, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
some people think they are noisy
I can live with that. Its easy enough to replace them if they are too noisy, although I haven't run into that before.

Made some more progress tonight, but no pics. Installed the valve covers, front cover, oil pump, water pump, and motor mounts. Someone had previously installed some incorrect studs in the exhaust manifolds which required the use of a deep well socket, so I spent some time removing the old studs and installing the correct ones. When I went to install the manifolds on the heads I discovered they were warped some of the bolts wouldn't line up. I've run into this a few times before and wish I would have checked before removing the old studs and installing new ones. I'm going to use a diamond burr bit on a die grinder tomorrow to make the holes in the manifold line up with the cylinder head.
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  #84  
Old August 13th, 2014, 08:43 PM
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Jimmy do you let the lifters soak in oil over night before installing them ? I have always done that because an old school guy told me that's what you have to do with hydraulic lifters. Just wondering what Land Rover teaches you guys to do.
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  #85  
Old August 14th, 2014, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Jimmy do you let the lifters soak in oil over night before installing them ? I have always done that because an old school guy told me that's what you have to do with hydraulic lifters. Just wondering what Land Rover teaches you guys to do.
Yes I do that. We have a large oil tank that pumps oil out of a gun, so we can prime the oil system with that. Drew showed me on the last motor we built that you can use a drill on th soil pump to prime the motor. Land Rover doesn't tell you to do anything as far as I know. Land Rover also recommends using engine oil on the bearings, and not assembly lube. I use assembly lube.
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  #86  
Old August 14th, 2014, 07:01 AM
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I like to prime it up with a drill. Cant do it with the crank driven oil pumps though, v-belt wins again
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  #87  
Old August 14th, 2014, 07:58 AM
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Assembly lube on assembly and then I leave the spark plugs out and rocker covers off and crank the engine until I get oil out the rocker shafts.. Less load on the engine and spins over easier..plus it's fun to watch all the rockers do their little dance..
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  #88  
Old August 16th, 2014, 07:54 PM
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Got the truck running and drove it home!
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  #89  
Old August 16th, 2014, 08:15 PM
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yeah Jimmy - my issue with them was two fold....one seized...ouch! and so a bent valve rod and screwed up cam and another set of lifters later - all i got was a tick tick ticking...so once again replaced them with LR ones and no ticking.
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  #90  
Old August 17th, 2014, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
So did a complete rebuild solve your overheating issue?

-Jeff
I hope so! I haven't had it idling in traffic yet since I just drove it home from work yesterday. Either way, it needed the rebuild due to the spun bearing. If I'm still having issues I'm going to upgrade the radiator and let Pendy say I told you so.
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  #91  
Old August 17th, 2014, 12:53 PM
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Just upgrade the radiator now and you will never have to admit I was right.
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  #92  
Old August 17th, 2014, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pendy View Post
Just upgrade the radiator now and you will never have to admit I was right.
Haha, I considered it. I can't spend extra money right now, I dropped about $4k on this project and moving expenses are building up.
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  #93  
Old August 17th, 2014, 01:36 PM
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Glad you got it back on the road
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  #94  
Old August 27th, 2014, 04:28 PM
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Is there a source for a direct fit upgraded radiator?...for a NAS 110...4.6...in the US?
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  #95  
Old August 27th, 2014, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Lobster View Post
Is there a source for a direct fit upgraded radiator?...for a NAS 110...4.6...in the US?
A local radiator shop should be able to do it. There is a thread in the for sale section where Dan (ini88) is selling re-cored 4 and 5 row radiators.
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  #96  
Old August 27th, 2014, 08:05 PM
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Run it on a higher than normal antifreeze ratio ... That will give you extra cooling power.
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  #97  
Old August 27th, 2014, 08:16 PM
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Spoke w/ Drew today. LRR is going to be hurting without both of you.
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  #98  
Old August 27th, 2014, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Run it on a higher than normal antifreeze ratio ... That will give you extra cooling power.
Do you have proof of that?

Run Water Wetter instead.
http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10
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  #99  
Old August 28th, 2014, 12:04 AM
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I have tried the Water Wetter with no noticeable drop in temp. It will go up from 190 to 230 in traffic/stop lights/drive thrus, etc. and the A/C has a hard enough time keeping up in this Texas heat...

Would plugging off the oil cooler lines help it run cooler without any adverse effects? What about a separate oil cooler that doesn't route through the radiator?

I will check the for sale ad and local radiator shop...just wasn't sure if there was already a direct fit available for the NAS 110....thanks.
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  #100  
Old August 28th, 2014, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Lobster View Post
I have tried the Water Wetter with no noticeable drop in temp. ...

WW isn't designed to drop the temps-it elimates hot spots in the cylinder heads.

http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3per...ter_wetter.htm


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