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  #41  
Old July 17th, 2014, 10:21 AM
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my $.02 just in case you want to follow, based on experience and symptom. heat is a by product of energy production and yes heat is lost energy.

how is your airflow, are the fins to the condenser blocked, is your a/c auxiliary fan operating?.
what is in front of the grill, winch, oversize lights, number of lights, leaves mud, dust, oil from a prior leak?
at time of radiator replacement, did you flush the system prior to replacement? you may have had calcium deposits in the system thus partially blocking the new rad.
if you sit in traffic and temp rises, then you clearly have a lack of circulation, be fluid or air more likely a combination.
lets not forget to this heat you are adding an oil cooler and if auto a trans cooler.... more heat...
mixture, are you running too lean ? if lean chamber temps rise.
how is exhaust output, restrictive? cats ok, clear muffler?

during highway run, you have more than enough forced air thru the engine bay even if your fan and clutch are inoperable, therefore the principal way or raising temps is thru gas bypass, i/e warped head, loose heads, defective head gasket.

then deeper into your issue, you may have internal engine wear adding the friction. what weight oil are you using? the most basic, is your vacuum advance working?
I'm of the opinion that I need to investigate the true reason of an outcome before finding a solution, sometimes your realize something simple was overlooked.

by reading you original post, I understand you have a little more experience than a regular do it your selfer and you have begun covering your bases, check all the others before a teardown so you don't chase your tail and end up frustrated, by what may be a simple solution.
altho the fan clutch may be turning the proper way, is the fan moving air away from the rad or away from the engine, it needs to move away from rad.
good luck, I have chased those issues many times before. hope my ideas help
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  #42  
Old July 18th, 2014, 08:23 AM
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To add insult to injury, one of the ears on the starter was broken. I'm not surprised since the starter has been making noise since I bought the truck.



To add even more insult to injury, my block is trashed. The center bearing spun and gouged the block. Its pretty amazing that my engine was totally quiet, so this was a bit of a surprise.





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  #43  
Old July 18th, 2014, 08:28 AM
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And the weekend fun begins...
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  #44  
Old July 18th, 2014, 09:39 AM
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damn if a quiet engine looked liked that Id hate to see the bottom end of my Classic. At least it got you and your buddies home.
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  #45  
Old July 18th, 2014, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
And the weekend fun begins...
Other than taking the crank to the machine shop, there's not much to do to it this weekend. My co-worker has another block I can send to have top hat liners installed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
damn if a quiet engine looked liked that Id hate to see the bottom end of my Classic. At least it got you and your buddies home.
I really can't believe it. There has always been a vibration from the engine, but no noises. The oil hole in the bearing is totally blocked off from where the bearing came apart. The crank actually doesn't look too bad. It just sucks that the bearing spun and destroyed the block. It took about 30 min to get the center bearing cap out. All of the rod bearings looked perfect. Only one other main bearing had a little damage to it.
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  #46  
Old July 18th, 2014, 10:54 AM
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I run a 4.6. If you see my posts, you will also note that I have had my own issues (to say the least) with overheating including either a slipped liner or porous block. I also had one or the other on my 3.9 which I used block seal on and it is still running awesome in my rrc after 50K miles. On my third engine rebuild, which I took every precaution on (I used ARP studs and have had no head gasket issues) I believe I have finally solved my overheating (for the most part). And what it took was a 4-core radiator and I also run electric fans.

IMHO, the stock radiator will not be sufficient to run a 4.6 at 80 mph in warm weather. During my last overheating issue, I had my 8 year old 4-core rebuilt and it also solved my problems.

Also, I don't believe that the leak down test is 100% as if the liner is in the correct position during the static test, it might show good. I use a block test by testing the coolant for gases and that worked for me.

All said, I strongly suggest getting more cooling power from your radiator.
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  #47  
Old July 18th, 2014, 11:06 AM
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If you want a good British supplier, try Turner Engineering in Sussex, always very helpful ive rebuilt a 2.25D with a lot of their stuff.
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  #48  
Old July 18th, 2014, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Other than taking the crank to the machine shop, there's not much to do to it this weekend. My co-worker has another block I can send to have top hat liners installed.



I really can't believe it. There has always been a vibration from the engine, but no noises. The oil hole in the bearing is totally blocked off from where the bearing came apart. The crank actually doesn't look too bad. It just sucks that the bearing spun and destroyed the block. It took about 30 min to get the center bearing cap out. All of the rod bearings looked perfect. Only one other main bearing had a little damage to it.
My Defender has a vibration when I hold the throttle around 1800-2000 rpm. I believe it to have been fucked with at a shop years ago. Sorry your block is trashed, make a coffee table out of it.
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  #49  
Old July 18th, 2014, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis View Post
IMHO, the stock radiator will not be sufficient to run a 4.6 at 80 mph in warm weather. During my last overheating issue, I had my 8 year old 4-core rebuilt and it also solved my problems.

I've installed a few 4.6's with all stock cooling systems with no overheating issues. I also know of two 5.0's that run 35"+ tires that have stock cooling systems as well- no issues with those ones either.

If once I get done with all of this and I still have an overheating issue, I will let you and Pendy publicly shame me.
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  #50  
Old July 18th, 2014, 05:14 PM
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I know I'll get 20 different answers, but is it normal for my temp gauge to be a little right of the middle (on the NAS stock gauge) on a 87 degree day under stop and go city traffic? Never touches red or gets close, but I guess I'm just used to it being at its highest point directly at half on my gauge so when it starts to lean towards H it concerns me.
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  #51  
Old July 18th, 2014, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
I know I'll get 20 different answers, but is it normal for my temp gauge to be a little right of the middle (on the NAS stock gauge) on a 87 degree day under stop and go city traffic? Never touches red or gets close, but I guess I'm just used to it being at its highest point directly at half on my gauge so when it starts to lean towards H it concerns me.
Assuming it is reading correctly, that is high. They usually read just below the middle. I've got my old stock fan and fan clutch that you could try, I'm pretty sure there's nothing wrong with it.
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  #52  
Old July 18th, 2014, 07:53 PM
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Jimmy, 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Thant says it all......
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  #53  
Old July 18th, 2014, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Capt Milks View Post
Jimmy, 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Thant says it all......
Drew is trying to pressure me into being the guinea pig for a 5.7L swap. If I wasn't moving I would definitely do it.
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  #54  
Old July 19th, 2014, 07:59 AM
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Jimmy, do it, do it....I will help if needed. It would be a cool motor to build. I can see you screaming down the street in Manhattan right now!
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  #55  
Old July 19th, 2014, 08:23 AM
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I agree with Capt Milks- 5.7!
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  #56  
Old July 19th, 2014, 08:42 AM
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Jimmy, do it for the vine!
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  #57  
Old July 19th, 2014, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Milks View Post
Jimmy, do it, do it....I will help if needed. It would be a cool motor to build. I can see you screaming down the street in Manhattan right now!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
I agree with Capt Milks- 5.7!
Not enough time for a gamble on a motor!
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  #58  
Old July 19th, 2014, 10:50 PM
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5.7 As in vortec?
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  #59  
Old July 19th, 2014, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
5.7 As in vortec?
Never!

It uses a Rover V8 block. I can't give away all of Drew's secrets.
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  #60  
Old July 20th, 2014, 09:12 AM
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Man I've got some ideas but that seem like a lot for a 215
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