What to look for during an inspection? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 16th, 2007, 07:38 PM
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jason
97 d-90
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What to look for during an inspection?

Hello Guys,

At the end of the month I am flying out to CA to look at a 1997 Defender with 32k miles. I have tried to do my research on what to look for in regards to wear items and things that might be wrong. But I was hoping you guys would be able to help me with some common problems and areas that I might over look.


thanx

Jason
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  #2  
Old July 16th, 2007, 10:33 PM
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nate
95 d90
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with a truck that`s got only 32k miles, the only thing in particular I can think to look for beyond the regular rust spots is the rear main seal. Make sure that`s not leaking.
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  #3  
Old July 16th, 2007, 11:02 PM
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jason
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Hi,


I guess thats what I am looking for is what are all the normal problems that defenders have.
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  #4  
Old July 17th, 2007, 04:12 PM
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nate
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Rust. Otherwise, it is pretty much completely dependant upon the history of the individual truck.
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  #5  
Old July 17th, 2007, 05:40 PM
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S. Smith
72 Series III 109 Diesel
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My usual list when looking at a land rover

Walk around look for dings, dents evidence of bodywork
Have door jambs been painted over, are tags and badges clean or covered with paint
Rust in door bottoms, general condition, body panels straight?

Under the hood:
Check inside of oil filler cap for color
Look for leaks and stains on engine
Backpressure in overflow tank from rad
check viscous fan
bulkhead rust? footwells?
leaks in tran cooler, oil cooler lines
plug wires genuine or better?
Serpentine belt condition?
Pulley wear?

Underneath
Check LT230 for play in front and rear output bearings, excessive play in Tcase
Check Ujoints for movement
Chassis rust?
Obvious repairs or welding
Condition of gearbox, leaks?
Exhaust condition, tap cats, do they rattle?
Look for evidence of exhaust leaks

Interior
Condition of seats
Pull back carpet is there rust?
Does odo match the condition of the vehicle
are the pedal pads worn a lot
Burns in carpet, seats?

Turn the key don't start
Do all the idiot lights come on?

Start
Listen to engine sounds, AC off, noises?
Do all the lights go off properly

Turn on AC
Squeel?
Cold Air?

Turn steering wheel back and forth
Noise, Squeel, Feel?

Clutch pedal feel right?
Brakes feel right?
Is the emergency brake adjusted properly?

Drive windows down, AC off
Noises, pull, power, does it brake straight

Slowly in parking lot turn both directions with wheel to lock, do the CVs clunk and clank, tire scrub?

Engage low range
Does it go in easily? Does diff lock light come on when engaged?
Drive in low, excessive noise or whine?

Drive normally, wobble or shimmy in front end, overall feel of vehicle?

Drive for 15 to 30 minutes

Park, open hood, engine running
Is engine too hot, is viscous fan working, any noises, everything in good nick?

Turn off engine
Tell the owner everything that needs to be serviced from what you have seen. Look at service history if available. Find out everything you can about who has owned, how many owners, area of the country (salt on roads in winter)

Make offer. Leave number and don't look back when you leave. Don't show up with cash! Don't become emotional. Don't buy any car that you cannot live without or you will pay too much.
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72 Series III 109 SW Diesel, 03 RR, 98 Porsche 986, 01 Porsche 986 3.6 L
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  #6  
Old July 17th, 2007, 05:58 PM
CaptMidnite
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Daniel Choi
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For more "peace of mind" you can always have it checked over at a Land Rover dealership and pull a Carfax. But, contrary to popular belief, a Carfax doesn't necessarily prove the vehicle has never been wrecked. But....with a Defender the bodywork can easily be examined because you can access both sides of most panels quite easily.
Also, dig further into the 32k miles claim. Does the condition of the vehicle and the documentation support it?
But anyway check these things:

1) Rust: closely examine the bulkhead for underlying rust. The body is made of riveted aluminum, but the trim reinforcing the corners where the panels come together is made of steel. However, minor rust shouldn't be a problem. Examine the frame, especially the rear cross member. Run your fingers along hidden crevices in the underbody to check for caked mud, dirt. Might give you a clue as to how the vehicle was used.

2) ignition. Seems to be an aggravating problem with some D-90's. My used D-90 came with a bunch of records, and even when it was only 2 years old it was having problems with stalling. So check cold start, hot start, etc. Turn it off, turn it on a couple times.

3) make sure the "check engine" light isn't disabled. Should light on with the first turn of the key, and then switch off after ignition. A disabled check engine light can hide many expensive problems

4) slight whining or minor drivetrain noise such as soft clunks shouldn't be a problem. Make sure diff lock engages.
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  #7  
Old July 17th, 2007, 07:20 PM
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Gary
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May also want to check if the speedo/odo has ever been replaced. On a 97 the odo is an LED readout and is prone to crapping out, particularly in damp or high humidity environments....
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  #8  
Old July 17th, 2007, 11:05 PM
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oscar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GYM
May also want to check if the speedo/odo has ever been replaced. On a 97 the odo is an LED readout and is prone to crapping out, particularly in damp or high humidity environments....
tell me about it. I bought a 97 D90 with 65k miles from the local Land Rover dealer in Rancho Mirage, as I was test driving the 90 the speedo/odo quit working. they replaced it and I bought the 90. but it now has a Carfax report stating the chaged odo. this is so common on the 97's that it dosen't bother me. the dealer has all the records. ALWAYS CHECK YOU 90'S HISTORY AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
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