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  #1  
Old November 17th, 2009, 12:28 PM
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Shane
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What started with rotors . . .

So I failed my VA inspection because my rotors had been turned and were a tad too thin for spec. I had been getting horrible squeaking when driving locally and applying the brakes (brake dust build up) so I knew I had to do something regardless.

Got a great deal on solid rotors from Autopart International and started to install. When I pulled off the first rotor, I noticed metal in the outside bearing. When I removed the race (a major pain), there was significant surface abrasions inside of it.

Since I'm replacing the outside bearing, I wanted to match the bearing on the inside as well -- but don't want to go through the pain of removing what looks to be a perfectly good race. I'm not going with Timken bearings and found a good German-made bearing from Napa.

So my question, should I replace the race if I'm replacing the bearing? My fear is that my heavy-handed race removal technique will just damage something else (suggestions welcome).

While I have the wheels off, I'm considering taking off really thick pads as I don't think they're very good quality and the cause of the squealing. However, I'm already nickeling and diming myself to the point my wife is starting to give me the eye.

I'm willing to put in the wrench time to see if the rotors fix the squealing but that's probably just wishful thinking.

Replace races?
Match all bearings on all wheels?
Replace pads?
Bleed the fluid while I'm at it?

Also the grease I picked up is rated for 500 degrees. That should do the trick correct?
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  #2  
Old November 17th, 2009, 12:39 PM
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Replace the race. A brass drift is ideal, but I have used a chisel or screw driver to get a race out without issue. Old race and new bearing is not good. No need to do the other wheels unless the bearings are damaged.

Not sure on the pads. I stick to genuine pads.

I just syphon out brake fluid with a turkey baster every oil change.
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Old November 17th, 2009, 12:39 PM
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Jim Cheney
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As long as you got wheel bearing grease I'm sure you're fine - I personally like the red Mobil 1 stuff. I would definitely match the bearings with the races, but I've had mismatched inner and outer bearings (though I prefer them all matching). The machine shop charges to replace bearing races are so low that I always just pay to have them done. I think Napa sells the TKS(?) bearings - I'm sure they're fine as long as they fit.
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  #4  
Old November 17th, 2009, 01:05 PM
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Getting the rotors off the hub and then getting the bolts to line up is such a bitch
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Old November 17th, 2009, 01:45 PM
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When you finally get it all back together you'll freak about how much better it stops. Usual MO is to replace all the consumables when doing rotors as it's all more or less apart anyway. Seals, gaskets, bearings, etc. I prefer the Ferodo pads.
I do the job every other year.
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Old November 17th, 2009, 03:07 PM
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I really appreciate the advice. I'll pick up a brass drift set when I grab that 2 1/16 socket from Harbor freight today and knock out the other race.

On a related note, all of the guides I've read have been very specific in the tightening the first, inside nut on the hub (tight enough for no play) but all of them say just to "tighten" the second. In taking it off, both nuts were a little more than hand tight and I took them off with a big set of channel locks.

Do I need to tighten that second hub nut the same as the first or should I apply more force?
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Old November 17th, 2009, 04:05 PM
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You're supposed to tighten the second nut to like -don't quote me- 75 newtons or something like that. The first nut should definitely be more than finger tight...
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Old November 17th, 2009, 05:01 PM
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As with all wheel bearings from the time the car was invented until they made them non adjustable...

1) Tighten fully while turning, to seat bearings. I think manual says 60 Nm
2) Loosen 1/2 a turn.
3) Tighten by hand lightly. I think manual says 4 Nm
4) Spin the wheel and make sure it is not too tight or loose.
5) Add washer and lock nut.
6) Tighten, I think manual says 60 Nm
7) Bend lock washer flat over both nuts.
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Old November 17th, 2009, 08:28 PM
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Cool. So using my handy torque conversion chart (http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html) about 45 pounds.

Much appreciated.
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