What sizes and threads metric bolts are on a NAS Defender - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 24th, 2009, 01:27 AM
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What sizes and threads metric bolts are on a NAS Defender

Is it coarse thread or fine? I know they are metric 8.8 I want to buy in bulk. Where can I buy a ton inexpensively online.

I broke a lot taking the donor truck apart.

A "you need all these bolts to assemble a land rover" would be great.

Ron

Follow-up Post:

Edit: I see references to "fine" but I think they are normal thread. IE M6 1.0 thread pitch and M8 1.25 thread pitch.
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  #2  
Old March 24th, 2009, 06:41 AM
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They are normal, just like you say. If you [ull up my stainless spreadsheets, you'll get mcmaster part numbers, and they'll be the right sizes. Even if you want a different material, thats easy to fix on your order.
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  #3  
Old March 24th, 2009, 08:21 PM
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Thanks JimC.

I am doing the WHOLE truck (not just the external stuff) so I will need considerably more, but feel free to bring all you want to part with when I pick up the galvanized stuff.

Ron
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Old March 24th, 2009, 09:30 PM
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Yeah, but the thread pitches are the same. You're going to need a big pile of M6 and M8's in a variety of lengths.
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  #5  
Old March 24th, 2009, 09:32 PM
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yes, thank you.

Ron
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  #6  
Old March 24th, 2009, 10:54 PM
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Great question Ron as I am needing to do the same thing.

So Jim you were able to buy bulk of them from where again? I was a bit unclear on your post.

Anyway to get the fasteners in the same finish as factory ones? With the slightly gold tint?

I am mostly concerned about the ones visible in the cab

Thanks for the help

Tyler
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  #7  
Old March 24th, 2009, 11:06 PM
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"I am mostly concerned about the ones visible in the cab"

George has the floor set for $30.
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  #8  
Old March 25th, 2009, 06:04 AM
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All my stuff came from mcmaster.com. If you need OEM cad-plated look on a bolt that doesn't have it, just get the cad-coat spray cans from Eastwood to replicate the look. When you order steel fasteners though, mcmaster gives you a huge choice of finishes.
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Old March 25th, 2009, 11:37 AM
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Ron,

The short answer is: use a thread pitch gauge, measure as you go, keep good notes, buy what you need and save the extras and you'll probably use them up later. Its painful, but this is what I do. Like Jim said, most of the you will need a wheel barrow full of m8's and m6's in a variety of lengths. Buying one length and cutting is possible... just really annoying. As far as pitch, most are coarse thread, I'm guessing about 20% are fine thread. I buy bulk fasteners from McMaster and loose fasteners from Ace hardware. Ace, belive it or not, has a much bigger selection than Home Depot or Lowes and they carry higher quality bolts. Fastenal, if you have one near you, is another option.

Incidently, the M 8.8 refers to property class (effectively the strength / carbon content) of a bolt. M 8.8 is roughly equivalent to a grade 5 bolt (has 3 radial lines on the bolt head). Some of the chassis/axle/suspension bolts are M 10.9, which is equivalent to a grade 8 bolt (has 5 radial lines on the head). And there are even a couple M 12.9 bolts somewhere (brake caliper bolts if I recall correctly). I mention this only because SAE bolts are a *lot* cheaper and come in a variety of coatings, so I sometimes use them instead of metric.

Stainless, in general, is *very* weak. The most common and cheapest is 18-8, which is roughly equivalent to a grade 2 bolt (think ikea furniture), which is only 2/3 as strong as a grade 5 bolt. 304 and 316 stainless are the next most common, but they're not much stronger, just offers slightly better corrosion resistance. You can purchase higher strength stainless bolts from ARP, who make a grade 8 equivalent stainless, but they are really really really expensive. This is where hot rodders get stainless steel head bolts / engine kits. I use stainless for interior and non-structural stuff, but I will usually not replace a grade 5 or equivalent bolt with stainless. That said, bolts usually have a 5X safety factor, so in most cases its probably fine.

As far as coatings, you can get grade 5 and M 8.8 in bright zinc coating (the most common coating, and bolts look bright silver). grade 8 and M 10.9 come in a yellow zinc coating (the yellowish, high strength bolts). Oddly, yellow zinc coating oxidizes quicker than bright zinc coating, so the bright zinc coated bolts usually look better longer. There are other coatings you can get, cadmium, black oxide, black luster, galvanized, etc., but they are usually only offered for SAE bolts. The interior bolts are always the goofy ones.... weird lengths, pitches, serrated/nonserrrated caps, flanged/nonflanged caps, and non-standard coatings. For instance... those yellow bolts tyler is referring to... are probably grade 2 or 5 equivalent, but you can only purchase yellow zinc bolts in grade 8. In that case, for the OEM look, you'd need to buy the OEM bolts.

yikes.... sorry for the rambling....
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  #10  
Old March 25th, 2009, 02:24 PM
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You can also have your bolts plated prior to installation, the yellow is Zinc Chromate and Zinc Electroplating will be the most durable, this is my plan. You can also plate stainless with Zinc if you wan to use it in direct contact with Aluminum.
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  #11  
Old March 25th, 2009, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh
You can also plate stainless with Zinc if you wan to use it in direct contact with Aluminum.
Sorry for the stupid question, but why would you need to plate the stainless?

ETA: Found it, galvanic corrosion.
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  #12  
Old March 25th, 2009, 04:35 PM
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These guys have it all and it is very cheap when you buy bulk.

http://www.hodell-natco.com/

Call them if you cant find it in their catalogs, they probably have it.
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