What size is the a-arm bolt? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 17th, 2005, 04:55 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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What size is the a-arm nut?

A search for this turned up nothing. If there is already something on this, please direct me to it. Otherwise, does anybody know what size that huge nut is that holds the a-arm to the rear axle housing?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old August 17th, 2005, 07:24 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Found it, it's a 30 mm
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Old August 17th, 2005, 08:09 PM
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And it is called a nut! Just for proper identification. JP
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  #4  
Old August 18th, 2005, 12:11 AM
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Bradlee Duncan
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haha, I didn't even notice that I wrote bolt instead of nut, thanks for the correction JP. Way too much time using the grinder today for me grinding off the diff covers....

Edited the other posts for others who may search in the future.
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Old August 18th, 2005, 08:15 PM
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Brad , you could cut to old cover off really quick with a sawzaw. clean up cut edges with grinder. you prob. done already though. JP
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Old August 19th, 2005, 12:32 AM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Yeah, didn't have a sawzall (sp?) handy, but I used a cutting type wheel on the grinder and it worked pretty slick actually. Thanks for the suggestion though, I just can't believe how thin that cover was!!

Hey, BTW, are you using one of those a-arm spacers that Steve (RT) makes?
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Old August 19th, 2005, 06:24 PM
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Yes , I have a a-arm ext. They were designed for the disco but can be useful on a 90 also. RTE didnt design it for the 90 due to clearence issues with the gas tank. I suicided into buying and redrilling one to help tilt my diff and keep tire centered in wheel well. The rear of the ball joint travels on compression and extension about a 1/4-3/8 inch shy of tank. So with relocated holes it worked great. JP
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Old August 21st, 2005, 09:50 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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ok, that's good to hear it can work. With the rebuild, I am going with the 3" RT lift and I hear it's a little more than 3" on a ST 90. So, I am going to try to get away without the extension, but I doubt it will happen so that's why I was wondering. I just picked one up from Marc Olivares just in case when I was over there last. Anyway, he was saying that you could also cut the corner off of it or something like that so that it misses the gas tank? Have you heard of that, or does redrilling it work better?

Also, could you explain it to me a little more... mainly, once it's installed, how do you fine tune the pinion angle? As far as I can tell, that would then be done with the trailing links, right?

Lastly, you don't happen to have a pic of what it looks like after you drilled it, do you? I would like to see what the difference is, but I'm sure I could figure it out once I put it together. The one I have looks just like the pic on the RT website. Thanks for the help!!
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Old August 22nd, 2005, 11:08 AM
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Brad you fine tune it after with the adjustable lower links. In the pic you can see that the cut is way to much. It is made so the rear of the extension fits over pressed ball joint housing. Again I only should have notched from the lower edge vertically about a quarter inch. I tried muliple combos of the stock holes and nothing worked. The upper rearward holes put the extension block into the tank. And the lower holes i think gave me way to much upward pinion angle. Therefore I redrilled two new holes on the lower section. The holes were placed forward of the origional holes along that bottom edge. The new holes sit forward 7/8 in. These are not magic numbers. Brad play with the holes you have first. You just need to have about 3/8-1/2 in clearance behind ball joint to clear tank. My setup centered the wheel in fender and gave me a very good pinion angle to run a double cardon shaft. JP
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  #10  
Old August 22nd, 2005, 11:59 AM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Sweet, thanks for the tips JP. I'll set it up and just get everything else dialed in and then I'll see where I'm at with pinion angle and the extension and fine tune as necessary. It was really good for you to explain that though so I can get an idea of what to expect.

Thanks!
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