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  #21  
Old October 20th, 2006, 03:32 PM
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Chris Davis
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So, a lot of people say there Detroits are not that noisy, and in the beginning mine were not either. But lately now that I have a much better turning radius due to steel rims, mine BANGS all the time (when I turn tightly). Sometimes it waits a while to let go. I was at a drive through last year that had a covered awning and I pull up to the window and BAAAMMMMMM, it lets go so loud (since it was covered area and side brick walls) that I did not know what the fuck happened. The guy behind me gets out of his truck because he though he somehow hit me! We had a pretty good laugh about it. The drive through attendant did not know what was up and locked his window. Mine is a newer model, couple years old or so, but supposedly the "quiet" one ;-)
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  #22  
Old October 22nd, 2006, 07:34 AM
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Hmmmn....ARB failures.

Bent carrier bearing flanges.... cused by deflection from the r/p yet no broken gear.

Failed o rings

failed piston rings

All issues that have happened, after being installed correctly by reputable shops, and acknowledged by ARB tech.

These things are rare but they happen. ARB is still the best locker out there, undisputably, and also by far the most street friendly.
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  #23  
Old October 25th, 2006, 03:27 PM
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Detroit in Dallas

I have a detroit locker in Dallas and it tends to work perfectly. With two year old in the car seat I do not get to off road that much. One day, but for now I have realized the detroit is great for my driving style and my pocket book. The off road performance however is so amazingly different. BUYER BE WARE. a locker will not really get you out of tight situations off road. I have found that I get in worse trouble with a locker as my truck is more capable and now I absolutely am looking to put a winch on the truck. It is a slippery slope this hobby. It is good it is at least close to Christmas!
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  #24  
Old October 26th, 2006, 06:51 PM
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Has anybody ever noticed that Detroits don't work that well offroad? It could be the 9in model, which I have heard is a little troublesome, but I found mine unlocking or slipping at the most annoying times. It bothered me so much I took it out and put in a spool. It worked fine on the street though.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #25  
Old October 26th, 2006, 07:03 PM
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Buck I had one in my 79 Bronco it worked very well> till i smoked the whole rear end
they do clickity clak though [i'm all up with arb]
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  #26  
Old October 26th, 2006, 09:18 PM
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Chris Davis
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Buck, mine does not have that problem--it behaves just like advertised. I don't remember mine ever slipping, once locked up, and it locks up very fast.
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  #27  
Old October 26th, 2006, 10:04 PM
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I have heard that the longer the wheelbase the less you notice the Detroit. Is this true? If that's the case i think I'll be going with the Detroit
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  #28  
Old October 26th, 2006, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis
Buck, mine does not have that problem--it behaves just like advertised. I don't remember mine ever slipping, once locked up, and it locks up very fast.
It's entirely possible I had a bum one. But, I like the spool way more. I am just not a fan of any locker that decides when to open up on it's own.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymoe
I have heard that the longer the wheelbase the less you notice the Detroit. Is this true? If that's the case i think I'll be going with the Detroit
With full time 4-wheel drive you won't even notice you have one, other than the clunking.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #29  
Old October 26th, 2006, 11:47 PM
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[QUOTE=Buckon37s]It's entirely possible I had a bum one. But, I like the spool way more. I am just not a fan of any locker that decides when to open up on it's own.


Spool? You obviously trailer that thing out to the Hammers, right?
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  #30  
Old October 27th, 2006, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymoe
Spool? You obviously trailer that thing out to the Hammers, right?
Oh, yeah. For sure. It's extremely illegal. There are no turn signals, the tires stick out about 9in each side and about 5in past the very back. Plus it tops out at around 60 mph due to the 6.20's in the gears. But, it drives pretty well even with the spool. I don't notice much handling problems, just the constant chirping when I take a turn.

The cops in my town are very cool and I often drive it down to the corner store on the weekends, with 5psi in the tires.

Oh, and just so I'm clear, I am not recommending that anyone get a spool. I know a couple guys who deal with them on their daily drivers and wear tires pretty quickly, and are annoying. Plus, they will put too much strain on your axles.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #31  
Old January 21st, 2007, 08:46 PM
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Chris Schramm
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Trutrac?

I would like to hear more from members with a trutrac in the rear. I had an ARB in the rear of my Series and loved it, but it required HD axles and the compressor so the price is high ($1500ish for the full magilla). I have a friend who has a trutrac in the rear and refers to it as the "secret weapon"....the guy is very good off road but never gets stuck.

Questions:
anyone ever broken a stock rear axle with a trutrac?
how does the trutrac work and are there situations where it won't distribute the power?

I'm looking to maintain the on road performance, lock the rear, and not spend any money...is that too much to ask?
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  #32  
Old January 21st, 2007, 11:13 PM
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I have truetracs front and rear, they work great, little difference on road. Great in the mud, snow and ice. They are the easiest answer as far as I'm concerned. If cost is an issue I would go with two truetracs over just one ARB in the rear. The decision to lock the ARB (particularly in the front) basically requires you to wait till you are pretty sure you will get stuck or you risk axle breakage or dangerous handling. Truetracs are there whenever you need them. Anyone can drive the truck.
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  #33  
Old January 22nd, 2007, 07:58 AM
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I run ARBs with stock axles front and rear and I've never broken anything in the drivetrain department. I'm not going to upgrade to HD axles until I break what I have. THe only HD set I ever had was on my old Rangie and I took them on the trail thinking i was invincible and broke them the first trip out. Those old 10 splines held up though!(with ARBs) In my opinion, having the ability to control when the lcoker kicks in actually saves your axles. Yes they do require you to think about whatever hte obstacle is.. consider locking htem before you go over whatever it is. Don't make the mistake of clicking the switch with the wheels spinning.. you won't be happy with the outcome..
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  #34  
Old January 22nd, 2007, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-C
I'm looking to maintain the on road performance, lock the rear, and not spend any money...is that too much to ask?
Trutrac's are the closest you can get to accomplishing the above statement. Call Bill at GBR and pick his brain like I did. I put trutrac's and 4:11 R&P in front and rear a year ago and I really like the performance. The only on road driving difference that I can tell is the steering wants to return to neutral quickly when taking corners if you let go of the wheel. I don't even notice it any more. Traction is much improved. Nothing broken yet.
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  #35  
Old January 22nd, 2007, 04:12 PM
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Thanks Mike. Follow up question - why did you decide to also go with 4.11's? What tyre size do you have?



Thanks to all for the feedback...others?
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  #36  
Old January 22nd, 2007, 04:36 PM
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Chris,

Come by and drive mine around the block... the 4.11's really help with acceleration and on the trail. Your speedometer will not be accurate unless you get a VDO speedometer or go with 35 tires, but they bring the truck back to stock spec with larger tires.

What do you want to do with the truck, are you interested in recreating the beast, or do you want something like a hybred. Are you planning on taking it on Guard Rail or School Bus in Tellico?

I would go with ARB's then you have the best of both worlds, the price on axels have come down, you can get Rover Tracks for a pretty good price and CV Unlimited HD Axels and CV's in the front for $899. Or, you could skip the lockers and get a good winch and recovery kit to start.

Scott
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  #37  
Old January 22nd, 2007, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-C
Thanks Mike. Follow up question - why did you decide to also go with 4.11's? What tyre size do you have?



Thanks to all for the feedback...others?
I am running 33" MTR's and my next set will be 35" MTR's. I went with the 4:11's b/c I knew I was going with 35's next and wanted some increased performance on the mountain passes here in Colorado. I felt that the 90 struggled up the passes and this was my main reason for the gears. I have noticed some improved performance but it ain't HUGE. And the the speedo is now off by 10mph. Hopefully this will correct when I get the 35's. Again, Bill at GBR and Rob Dassler here on this forum were a big help.
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  #38  
Old January 23rd, 2007, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90
Chris,

Come by and drive mine around the block... the 4.11's really help with acceleration and on the trail. Your speedometer will not be accurate unless you get a VDO speedometer or go with 35 tires, but they bring the truck back to stock spec with larger tires.

What do you want to do with the truck, are you interested in recreating the beast, or do you want something like a hybred. Are you planning on taking it on Guard Rail or School Bus in Tellico?

I would go with ARB's then you have the best of both worlds, the price on axels have come down, you can get Rover Tracks for a pretty good price and CV Unlimited HD Axels and CV's in the front for $899. Or, you could skip the lockers and get a good winch and recovery kit to start.

Scott
Thanks Scott. My plan for the truck is to keep it relatively nice for around town rides and to make it fairly trail worthy; no school bus, but I'd like confidence going up 4, 6, and 8 as examples. It will not be a "Beast replacement". I've lifted it (OME), and added 33" BFG MTs, bumper, winch, and sliders. Next is underbody protection and beefed up steering (Rovertym). From here I just want to mildly improve traction without spending a bundle. Also, I don't have an acceleration problem as it is...it's a manual shift so that is less of an issue.

I think I'll go with just a trutrac in the rear and rely on the winch when needed rather than making a bigger change. Heck, Jack never get's stuck with the "secret weapon"

Mike, thanks for the insight; very helpful on the gearing. I agree on Bill...he is reasonably unbiased and knows everything there is to know about Rover drivetrains.
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  #39  
Old January 23rd, 2007, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
Whats is final cost of an ARB done right? 1500 or so?
Might ever be higher than that because you also have to do the air compressor setup. I am thinking $2K at the most.
At $80/hour, I really think this is at least a 8 to 12-hour job (that's 650 - 800) + locker ($600?) + compressor ($250) = $1500 in the best case scenario. i.e. the guy knows what he is doing, is already aware of the D90 "install tricks".
For my first install, it took me about 16-20 hours of work to get _just_ the front done (the compressor was already installed; did everything myself and checked everything twice at least). Front requires more work, but then.... How much more....
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  #40  
Old January 24th, 2007, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand
Might ever be higher than that because you also have to do the air compressor setup. I am thinking $2K at the most.
At $80/hour, I really think this is at least a 8 to 12-hour job (that's 650 - 800) + locker ($600?) + compressor ($250) = $1500 in the best case scenario. i.e. the guy knows what he is doing, is already aware of the D90 "install tricks".
For my first install, it took me about 16-20 hours of work to get _just_ the front done (the compressor was already installed; did everything myself and checked everything twice at least). Front requires more work, but then.... How much more....
Really? You guys pay 2 g's for installed airlockers? It's that much? I can't believe that. So if you have an Airlocker, GBR 4.11, aftermarket axles, bling CV's and install your looking at what, $3,600? $3,700? Wow.
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