What I do wrong? Ignition relocation- photos - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 15th, 2015, 10:34 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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What I do wrong? Ignition relocation- photos

there are a few other threads with people that have had the same issue but my wiring seems to be different that the other photos. I installed STC1856 the ignition relocation module on a 94 D90 and now it won't start. Checked the coil leads and there is no spark. Photos are below. I don't understand what I did. The white wire not connected is supposedly not reused and I've confirmed that in other posts when I searched. I tried connecting it anyway and it still didn't run. I also have with me here a 95 D90 that has the kit installed and the wiring is COMPLETELY different so I'm posting for help. Does anything in the photos jump out as wrong?
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  #2  
Old March 17th, 2015, 12:24 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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No ideas?

Can anybody confirm what the wires are for? I'm assuming the double white wires that go into a single connector is power and should go to positive on the coil? The diode thingy is just for interference but that also goes to positive?

Then there is the black wire coming from the engine harness back by the MAF. That goes to negative? The white wire that i'm told is not needed anymore I assume a ground wire of some sort?

Is there something else I need to do that isn't covered in the instructions?
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  #3  
Old March 19th, 2015, 12:36 PM
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A couple of things come to mind here. First, in looking at your first pic I see the module relocation bracket is loose. Did you have it securely installed and grounded while trying to start the truck and later took things loose while trying to troubleshoot, or did you just sort of stick things together to see if it would work? That bracket (and therefore the module) has to be grounded. Did you reconnect the braided ground strap from the engine block? Did you remove the original module from the distributor and install it on the aforementioned bracket, and install the dummy module supplied with the kit on the distributor or did you by chance leave the original on the distributor and put the new dummy module on the relocation bracket? IF you did indeed install the dummy module on the distributor, did you check that the connections are secure? It's possible for one of the contacts inside the plug from the source coil inside the distributor to be pushed back inside the connector and not making contact, or even for one of the wires to be broken. For that matter, check the wires on all connectors (especially the original wires) to make sure that they're not broken inside the insulation at the connector.

Yes, the black wire coming from the MAF loom goes to the negative side of the coil. It's the fuel pump sense wire. Other wiring looks to be correct but it's a little hard to tell from the pic. The wire that's no longer used is actually the white wire with the black stripe.
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  #4  
Old March 20th, 2015, 04:18 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Hmmm.. couple steps I seem to have missed..

I do not see a braided ground wire anywhere. I did bolt everything up when I tried it and only dissembled for the photo. When I tried it though, there was no ground wire. I'll keep looking but I don't see it anywhere.

I did replace the original amplifier on the distributor with the dummy but I did not reuse it on the bracket. I thought all I had to do was install the dummy and then run the new harness to the bracket which had a new amplifier already installed. Is that not the case? Am I supposed to reuse the original amplifier and install it on the new bracket? Don't see how that would go together.
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Old March 20th, 2015, 04:45 PM
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No, sounds like you did it right. I guess I wasn't aware that the kit came with a new module already installed, I thought it only came with the dummy module and that you then relocated your old module from the distributor to the relocation bracket.

The ground strap generally runs from a bolt down low on the side of the block below the exhaust manifold up to one of the coil mounting bolts. At least, it's that way on the RRC, I assume the Defender uses the same general setup.
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  #6  
Old March 21st, 2015, 02:12 PM
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Ok. Checked all the connections and they are tight. I took out a volt meter and tested the positive and negative at the coil. It's reads 22 MV with the ignition on. The other defender reads 2.5 mV. Tested the voltage on lead out of the coil and with the ignition on its showing 73 MV.

The wiring btw the defenders is exactly the same yet the readings are way off. Help
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Old March 21st, 2015, 02:31 PM
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Also. I tried the old coil with the same wiring and the readings were 32 MV at the positive and negative terminals and 108 MV on the lead wire. Only difference was I had the battery jumped to another car. Not sure if this is at all telling of anything.
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Old March 21st, 2015, 08:14 PM
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OK, I'm about to light truck on fire and claim insurance. I don't understand why this won't work.

I checked the hot lead to the coil while disconnected. I get 12-13 volts. Once it's connected to the coil and I measure off the coil terminals I drops to 0 or 20-30 millivolts. Thought that might be ground issue so I disconnected the plug to the amplifier and stuck the voltmeter in the connector and sure enough it was reading zero volts with the ignition on. So i figured that was my problem-the amplifier wasn't getting power from the coil due to a bad ground. Ok well, I fashioned up some old wire and jumped the negative terminal of the coil to the bracket. Check the voltmeter at the amplifier connection and got 11.5 volts! Figured it was fixed, reconnected everything, ran a ground wire, BUT IT STILL WON'T START. I tried grounding it against the manifold, the bracket and the alternator. Shows voltage across the terminals on the coil and voltage at the connection to the amplifier but no start.
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Old March 21st, 2015, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
OK, I'm about to light truck on fire and claim insurance. I don't understand why this won't work. I checked the hot lead to the coil while disconnected. I get 12-13 volts. Once it's connected to the coil and I measure off the coil terminals I drops to 0 or 20-30 millivolts. Thought that might be ground issue so I disconnected the plug to the amplifier and stuck the voltmeter in the connector and sure enough it was reading zero volts with the ignition on. So i figured that was my problem-the amplifier wasn't getting power from the coil due to a bad ground. Ok well, I fashioned up some old wire and jumped the negative terminal of the coil to the bracket. Check the voltmeter at the amplifier connection and got 11.5 volts! Figured it was fixed, reconnected everything, ran a ground wire, BUT IT STILL WON'T START. I tried grounding it against the manifold, the bracket and the alternator. Shows voltage across the terminals on the coil and voltage at the connection to the amplifier but no start.
I can't see from the photo but it is vital that you connect the wire with that runs to the ECU to the -be side of the coil. This is the one that connect to the chicklet that's up near the MAF. Put the voltmeter on the chicklet and to ground and you should see 9v ... This should pulse with the ignition firing. This tells the ecu the engines is running and turns on the fuel pump. Without it it won't start. You can get a great spark and all that good stuff but unless that wire is connected the ECU won't pump gas.
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  #10  
Old March 21st, 2015, 10:00 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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That wire is one there and when I turn the ignition switch on I hear the pump fire up. I mean, it could be both fuel and ignition for all I know. I took the coil lead out of the distributor, stuck a screw driver in it and held it against the manifold while cranking it over. No arcing whatsoever. I do that with the other defender and it sparks everywhere. The coil seems to be dead. I've tried the new coil and one and the old one, with and without a dedicated ground wire. won't start either way.

What about the dummy ignition module? Could that be bad? I know I'm betting voltage to the coil, so what prevents the coil from discharging to the distributor?
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