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What have you done to your Defender today.

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771K views 6K replies 538 participants last post by  Robertopag 
#1 ·
Well this Thread is a very popular thread on a couple other forums that I frequent. So, I thought I'd give it a go on here too..

I after a little Blasphemous session got my new windscreen and seal installed.

 
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#5,011 ·
Got a set of Puma doors for the 90, and a new rear Puma door. Started the Dynamat process, replaced the window regulators with power ones from Masai4x4, put in matching lock barrels. So simple when you start with the Puma door. Next up Central locking... Doing videos for all of it. maybe will help other folks out.... next up figuring out where to drill the hole in the front Kick panels for the wire loom that was never in the car in the first place..
Ordered those MudUK A pillar trim strips which are deeper to fit more wires thru..
Found a diesel leak on the lift pump, fixed that, and a water leak on the top hose, replaced that, slowly but surely moving along... better every week.
 
#5,012 ·
Got a set of Puma doors for the 90, and a new rear Puma door. Started the Dynamat process, replaced the window regulators with power ones from Masai4x4, put in matching lock barrels. So simple when you start with the Puma door. Next up Central locking... Doing videos for all of it. maybe will help other folks out.... next up figuring out where to drill the hole in the front Kick panels for the wire loom that was never in the car in the first place..
Ordered those MudUK A pillar trim strips which are deeper to fit more wires thru..
Found a diesel leak on the lift pump, fixed that, and a water leak on the top hose, replaced that, slowly but surely moving along... better every week.
Where did you get your doors? I need new ones. And PLEASE make videos. I need to do that same operation soon
 
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#5,015 · (Edited)
Had transmission oil cooler lines rebuilt and the engine oil cooler lines while I was at it! What a mess! Removed each hose last night and had them at a shop in Dallas late this morning. Had to do some Defender source research after the first hydraulic shop said they couldn't get the metric fittings to go from the tubular steel to the rubber. Sooo glad I found a shop! Went with cloth braided rubber hose in lieu of braided stainless... nothing under my hood is shiny so thought the stainless would be too flashy, plus it reminds me of cloth insulated electric wire... more Defenderesque or probably Series-esque in my opinion.
Wanted to add that in the third pic from the top you can see that I had to get a swivel joint for one of the return engine oil cooler hoses. This enabled me to install it with that joint loose, make sure the hoses were oriented properly, and then tighten it up. I also had most of the tubular steel line cut away and high pressure rubber used on the upper hose where it connects to the radiator to prevent possible rubbing against the air conditioning line. I've had this happen before to the point were the steel line rubbed a hole in the A/C line. The technician who worked on my hoses noted that one of my original oil cooler hoses was different from the other having been made out of high pressure hose so thats what he went with on the rebuild.
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#5,016 ·
New shoes for the old girl.
XZLs worn out beyond any use managed to find 5 brand new KM3s in 7.50R16 from 4WheelParts locally and for a decent price. Also had rims sanded and repainted at the local commercial truck place over the winter.
Happy with the look, and highway noise is not too horrible either, all things considered:

On a less glorious note - took out all injectors and got them tested, knock on wood all are fine, put in new tubing while I was at it (old one was looking shaggy) and replaced the cyclone oil separator - old one started leaking oil into the air intake. New one is by Allmakes, not 100% perfect fit. No pictures of this, though.
I'd like to take time this year if I can, and refit/readjust all the body panels properly - 3 years ago I slapped them all together in a hurry as we had to move across the continent for the new job. I thought I'd fix it once we settled in the new place. We've moved twice since then and I still didn't get to it.......
 
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#5,017 ·
Changed over all my wheel bearings, man it rides so much more smooth. It was an inexpensive fix that makes a huge difference, and fairly quick job. Wishing I put more grease between the bearings, so might have to crack them open again in the coming weeks just to repack the bearings and add more grease between.
 
#5,024 ·
I was in the same situation. Mine is a 1988 and they stopped making the sides with that re enforcing strip on the outside in 1988! So anything 1989 and newer will work and won't have the strip on the leading edge. I sourced out a set and luckily the folks at Surfside4x4 had a set.
I looked into removing that strip but then there would be no where for the door trim to attach to. If you want to install the Masai. You'll have to swap out your sides for newer ones.

Best,
Ozzie
 
#5,030 ·
To Naplm00
all I can say this is a small community If you have heard of Arron. It’s kinda of funny you mentioned him I have some goof friends who are the port police at the Wilmington Port. When Arron got into that mess a few years back. They seized a lot of parts IE: frames body panels etc.. they were never returned to him and they were just sitting there and were recently sold to a metal scrap yard.....bummer what a waste of good parts
 
#5,031 · (Edited)
I would be surprised if most people here hadn’t heard of Dr Aaron, many of us have had dealings with him over the years

added the receiver hitch today so I can try and use my dirt bike carrier. Im Not super confident the rear crossmember is going to support the weight though. I had to re weld the bumper mount sleeves too. Seems like the material used for the crossmember is very soft. I’m thinking about fabricating one that has reinforced mounting locations.
461971
 
#5,032 ·
I would be surprised if most people here hadn’t heard of Dr Aaron, many of us have had dealings with him over the years

added the receiver hitch today so I can try and use my dirt bike carrier. Im Not super confident the rear crossmember is going to support the weight though. I had to re weld the bumper mount sleeves too. Seems like the material used for the crossmember is very soft. I’m thinking about fabricating one that has reinforced mounting locations. View attachment 461971
You need one that bolts to the chassis as well, mine was home made but Terrafirma now make one but not as strong as mine. Good luck.
461972
 
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#5,034 ·
+1 for frame kickers. Material thickness doesn’t mean jack compared to adding dimensions (triangulation).


Sam Hagey
Royal Overland Company - Austin, TX
Trucks To Conquer Your Next Adventure
www.royaloverland.com
 
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#5,037 ·
Hey Ozzie the glass looks great. I ended up getting all my doors from SP panels your referral didn’t pan out he had a pair but I needed all 3 and SP panels had complete ready to hang doors just change out the lock cylinders and Stryker plates.. did you have any issues with adjusting the doors I’ve heard in C some cases you have to loosen the front bulkhead. I hope that’s not the case let me me know
Chris
Wilmington NC
 
#5,038 ·
Hi there Chris.
Glad you got the doors sorted out. I hadn't heard about door mounting issues before. I just took one door off and installed the other. I had prepared for adjustments buy purchasing strikers, shims, and the set of new lock cylinders. I swapped out the cylinders and never needed the strikers or shims.
On the rear of the vehicle I did get a small bracket that goes in the lower tub up against the R it side wheel tub. This bracket holds one end of the rear door stay which is different in the Puma doors. And that was about it.

Are you getting them new from SP and then painting them to match? Do they come complete with everything inside and door panels, etc?

Best,
Ozzie
 
#5,039 ·
Yes I ordered them from SP panels they are COMPLETE …I ordered the new lock cylinders, I forgot to order the strikers but they said would put them in the order….I’ll have to see….what shims did you use?….I will paint the doors
to match but I am painting the entire 90..I’m not a fan of the the present color, it’s to battleship grey. I’m going to keep it in the family of grey maybe a silver or a few shades lighter than the corris grey. I also found the boost alloys through “Super Tweaks Ltd“ I’m going for a streetable LR90 mine is retired from off road use….except for the beach…..I’ll run it there…my wife and I like the beach along with grand kids it‘ll be fun
 
#5,041 ·
Installed the MudUK console. Moved the clock from the Binnacle to the center top of the Mud console, then to the left installed the EGT gauge and to the right the Boost gauge. Bottom right took the dual usb outlet. Now to find the slimmest GPS/Radio head unit made..
Anyone have any suggestions?
Ozzie
 
#5,042 ·
I did a few upgrades over the past few months.

I removed all the bed liner crap the previous owner put on the grill guard, bumpers, and roll cage. It took some work but got it off. I had to repaint the cage and rock slider. I have an RN Winch bumper and grill on order that should arrive next month.




I also replaced my oil cooler lines with stainless steel ones from Trailhead 4x4



I replaced my deteriorated rear ball joint top link with the Ultra model. I also recommend get the one already pressed in the new cradle....definitely a lot less hassles. Yes, I corrected the grease nipple cover so it is attached properly.




I also removed the workout carpet tunnel cover and replaced it with a RN insulated one that matched the vinyl look of the seat box covers.

 
#5,052 ·
I also removed the workout carpet tunnel cover and replaced it with a RN insulated one that matched the vinyl look of the seat box covers.

@ASO544
1) Love the oil cooler lines. Calling em tomorrow. May also get an LS swap started for my wife's D2 with them, who knows?

2) What I'm really curious about is your tunnel cover above. I just put one in and it was a bitch to get under my Puma dash and fit. I see you bolted yours down. I understand why, but is that standard fitment for this thing? Also, my big question is: Does the rubber shifter boot actually go over the lip as you have it? I did not figure that was possible, tough enough to get over the tunnel opening. So mine is inside. Curious what others have done.
 
#5,043 · (Edited)
Ordered the defender vent 2.0 from mud uk.
Received it and since it's made for the post 89 dash with the larger vents I had to make some modifications on my 1988 dash.
Cutting out the space to fit the larger ones and drilling some new holes on the metal under side to support the new vent.
Fortunately the previous owner had supplied me with a new style dash top so everything should
look factory by the time I'm done this weekend.
Recording the steps for a YouTube video for my channel so all can benefit from it. Will post the link once that's edited next week.

Ozzie

Update. Dash is in. Should have video finished and uploaded next week.
 
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