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What have you done to your Defender today.

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768K views 6K replies 536 participants last post by  SadKingBilly 
#1 ·
Well this Thread is a very popular thread on a couple other forums that I frequent. So, I thought I'd give it a go on here too..

I after a little Blasphemous session got my new windscreen and seal installed.

 
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#2,752 · (Edited)
I tightened the left front wheel... All the lug nuts were not even finger tight and one was about to fall off.. How did this happen, you might ask? Well 3+ weeks ago I took it to a shop near my house that had just open and after taking 3x the amount of time quoted (I waited) to repack the front bearings I asked them to hand torque the lug nuts and not use an air wrench. Well they did that.. A little to literally.
Side note I was out of the country this whole time and forgot to double check their work when I got back
 
#2,754 ·
Yes I got lucky was driving my daughter to dance across town and stopped at a Starbucks to check it and fix it thankfully.
Wish you didn't have to QA all work but you do... I normally do most of the work on the truck myself and will keep doing that, no more untried shops for me, it's worth my time to drive over an hour to my normal shop.
 
#2,757 ·
Took the B pillar Exmor trim cover that comes with the Soft top Padding that RN is selling and slid it between the best top and the B pillar to take up some slack in the old Best Top. Worked great in both cutting down the flapping and subsequent noise - as the padding covers come with holes in it where the snaps for the top can affix to the B pillar. Can post picks if anyone cares.
 
#2,761 ·
I never ever use an impact wrench, always a breaker bar to loosen and a torque wrench to tighten.

When I "had" to go to the tire store to get new shoes, they used an inpact wrench to tighten the lugs. I had to use a 5 foot (yes 5 foot!) cheater bar to loosen! I can't believe none of the lugs didn't snap...
 
#2,763 ·
Leveled out my mod 110. Tried Front heavy duty ome 751 but only gave me .5 inch lift. Then used medium 764 and got 2 inches. Sits right now. Running 255's/85, factory mod rear hd springs. Ground to middle of wheel arch.. 36.5" front and 37" rear.

Before pic and after pics.
 

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#2,768 ·
Put the Masai roof rack back on. Landy won't fit in the garage with it on, but wifey & I are taking the hounds to the coast for a week over thanksgiving so I wanted to have it on for packing all our stuff.



Cheers,

Paul.
 
#2,772 ·
ABS sensors only. I guess they might also be called rough road sensors? I've read that LR put ABS sensors on the '97 NAS Defenders but no (or a very basic) ABS system. The sensors are known for causing the check engine light to come on when they detect that the truck is off-road so that the engine management system will ignore any misfire codes. Unfortunately for me, my check engine light has been going on and off for the past few months while never driving off-road. I've gone to Autozone or O'Reilley's multiple times when my check engine light is on to get it scanned only to find it is code P1317; an ABS sensor code meaning 'Rough Road ABS low line fault'. My truck runs fine the whole time, I've cleaned the sensors before, the CEL goes off and comes back on with the same code all the time. I've heard that the driver's side front sensor is usually the culprit. :confused
 
#2,773 ·
Just installed a new set of RN black perforated steel wheels, 6.5x16, with Cooper S/T Maxx tires in 255/85-16. Love the look vs stock white and skinnies, seems to ride quite a bit better. Old tires were 16 years old. With stock suspension I get a bit of rub at full lock, so I'll adjust the steering stops.
 

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#2,792 ·
I know.. some of you dislike 5 bar but I needed some traction and support on my hood and wing tops. Rolling the spare down the hood and off the wing feels/sounds less "damaging" now
I picked up a set of Tithonus take offs. Might throw a final coat of paint on to get rid of rivets..
 
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