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  #901  
Old May 15th, 2014, 05:52 PM
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Iamkraig
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Kraig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaughva View Post
Masai's instructions and the YouTube videos make this look like a breeze... it is a giant PITA!!
Do you get land rover monthly? The march 2013 has a great step by step install article. If you don't get it, Pm me your email and I can screen shot my digital issue and email it to you.
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  #902  
Old May 15th, 2014, 10:56 PM
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Bill Ski
83 110 "Frankenstein"
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I loaded it up with the camping gear, so I can leave work early tomorrow and hit the midwest Rover Rally. Now it appears the starter shit the bed....
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  #903  
Old May 18th, 2014, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
I loaded it up with the camping gear, so I can leave work early tomorrow and hit the midwest Rover Rally. Now it appears the starter shit the bed....
Dude you have the worse luck with that truck. Good Luck!
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  #904  
Old May 18th, 2014, 10:36 AM
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Bill Ski
83 110 "Frankenstein"
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I'm beginning to think it hates me to be honest, I have never had a more problematic Land Rover.
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  #905  
Old May 18th, 2014, 03:14 PM
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Finally re-installed my rebuilt OBA system. Wired to a carling switch on my console. Same setup basically as last time, just a cleaner setup with a commercial aluminum manifold instead of my homemade one. Also added a relay to the output of the pressure switch to increase longevity. 3 gallon stainless air tank (1000psi burst pressure) now mounted high behind the tire carrier instead of under the truck.

Pressure switch automatically shuts off output at 150psi. Lead hose from output of compressor is 1/2" ID Rubber. Internal hoses are 3/8" ID 250psi Goodyear rubber. Failsafe backup is a poppet safety bleed valve set at 175psi.

Front hose is just a leader to universal quick-release right now. I haven't quite figured out where to mount the front manifold so it stays under the hood for now.

Weird issue is that the carling switch "active" light stays on all the time. Not sure why this is the case, as I've tried reversing the two leads to no avail.
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  #906  
Old May 18th, 2014, 07:45 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Well done. I need to do mine. pics? Diagram? With all that mumbo jumbo I can only assume it effectively prevents side fumbling?
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  #907  
Old May 19th, 2014, 06:28 AM
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Matthew
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Oil change on my 300tdi with rotella t6 5w, made a noticeable improvement on engine noise
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  #908  
Old May 19th, 2014, 07:00 AM
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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Removed everything outboard of the axle housing on the LH side front. Will be getting heavy duty front shafts, new swivel balls and seals, rebuilt calipers.
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  #909  
Old May 19th, 2014, 11:30 AM
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Lol....sorry charles...i guess it does sound a bit like i was implementing a retroencabulator

I will try to post pics and a writeup soon...
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  #910  
Old May 20th, 2014, 01:20 PM
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James Wallace
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Well first off, saw the crowd at the Overland Expo. Lots of fun meeting everybody. I had just done the steering ball joint and the front tie rod end. Piece of cake, they just had aged, cracked boots, not totally worn corroded POS's, good time to do them. So then, next morning did the track rod tie rod ends, again, piece of cake. Moving further south, attacked the ball joint on the rear axel/suspension triangle. It looked nasty, with almost no boot left. Not a piece of cake to get out. First the castelated nut (30mm) wouldn't budge, no matter what trick I used. So it got split with the ziz wheel and finally succumbed to be removed. Next the two bolts holding the mount needed breaker bar action to get to move, the nuts came off easy enough, but the bots took hours of Kroil and twisting before I could pound them out, a process that first off is over your head in a tight space, then allows all kinds of pulverized bits of raccoon crap to filter into your eyes. I get it out, finally, and now the real fun begins, getting the forking ball joint itself to come out of the mount. 20 minutes with a sledgehammer and a spacer did the trick.

Getting the new and old to mate was not too bad. So after cleaning up all the bolts and the mount I proceed to put it all back together. Well the triangle bolts together easily now, all cleaned up. But the axel has shifted a bit during all the violence and various animal crap shedding into my eyes. The ball joint does not want to penetrate! This kind of situation is precisely why I own two hydraulic jacks. Got it all lined up and it mated. What a pain in the ass! I felt as if I had been laying railroad tracks in the 1850's and looked it too. All in the name of do it now before it starts to get bad. All this fun for under $100.
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  #911  
Old May 20th, 2014, 01:25 PM
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Bill Adams
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I highly recommend buying the A arm ball joint already installed in the block. Then when you get the old one out you can work on it at your leisure, or toss it depending on your level of ambition/frustration.
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  #912  
Old May 20th, 2014, 01:36 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I highly recommend buying the A arm ball joint already installed in the block. Then when you get the old one out you can work on it at your leisure, or toss it depending on your level of ambition/frustration.
Good plan if you can separate the arms from the block.
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #913  
Old May 21st, 2014, 06:23 PM
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Rick Newman
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Finally made progress on the swap today. New timing belt done....oil pan/pick up cleaned...front cover cleaned, polished and clear coated...same with fuel lines...bought all new ss washers and lock washers for assembly...oh...and the Serpta is sitting on a pallet....finally!
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06 L322 Range Rover "The Black Pearl"
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  #914  
Old May 21st, 2014, 10:39 PM
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Mike
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Getting ready for summer time!!!
Cleaned MAF
Oil change
Topped of tranny/xfer/and diffs
Replaced brake and clutch fluid
Replace a coolant hoses
Drained and refilled coolant.
I also added some brass bling to the engine bay with new coolant fill plugs.
Years ago I added a coolant drain to the bottom radiator hose. It makes changing coolant so much easier!

Cheers...
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  #915  
Old May 21st, 2014, 10:58 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Years ago I added a coolant drain to the bottom radiator hose. It makes changing coolant so much easier!

Cheers...
More on this please...pics?
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  #916  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 08:59 AM
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Mike
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Look in the small project section titled "Radiator Drain"

Here is a pic...

Cheers...
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  #917  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 09:26 AM
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Russell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Look in the small project section titled "Radiator Drain"

Here is a pic...

Cheers...
That is cheating! What do you do w/ the free time now that you don't need to clean the floor?
Nice work/idea.
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  #918  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 09:47 AM
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Phillip
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drink beer duh
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  #919  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 09:55 AM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
That is cheating! What do you do w/ the free time now that you don't need to clean the floor?
Nice work/idea.
I just pull the bottom hose generally, but have a big transmission catch basin that I cut the bottom screen out of and place this above my coolant drain pan. Similar to this:
http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...FUZp7AodW3YARw

Works pretty good, never spilled a drop on the floor.
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'71 Series IIA
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  #920  
Old May 22nd, 2014, 10:27 AM
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I just spill most of it on the shop floor and suck it up with the floor machine.
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