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  #861  
Old May 12th, 2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
Did this too mine too (eh sorta) and it solved a ton of problems...really just connected and tested it, been wrestling with the steering wheel trying to get it off, did you use a steering wheel puller? The one I have didn't have the right bolts to thread into the steering wheel...
I just unbolted it and put some welly into it.....one aggressive pull with my hands sent the lockwasher straight to my neck where it fell down my shirt.
Absolute professional for sure
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  #862  
Old May 12th, 2014, 05:07 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Leave the nut on but loose, better than smacking yourself in the face with the steering wheel.
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  #863  
Old May 12th, 2014, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
Leave the nut on but loose, better than smacking yourself in the face with the steering wheel.
I had such a time getting my steering wheel off. After 2 different pullers, lubes, hammer blows, wiggling and hours of trying..I was wishing for a smack in the face from that thing!

There was nothing more frustrating than having a steering wheel be the only thing keeping me from loading that bulkhead in my car.
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  #864  
Old May 13th, 2014, 08:40 AM
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William Skidmore
1994 D90
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Take off the steering column shroud then put on a large gear puller set on it and ever so gently start wrenching the puller and it will come right off. Trick with the gear puller is getting the feet(?) on solid material so as to not tear the foam material. Easy peezy.
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  #865  
Old May 13th, 2014, 08:45 AM
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Doug Crowther
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I have always managed to get them off with a rubber mallet after some kroil or similar treatment. I smother them with copper antisieze when I put them back on
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  #866  
Old May 13th, 2014, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
Leave the nut on but loose, better than smacking yourself in the face with the steering wheel.
It's funny, I overthink and overengineer stuff all the time and when it comes to something so basic like this, the obvious solution completely evades me.

the rubber mallet is another obvious solution, but noooooo! I have to use muscle the thing off.
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  #867  
Old May 13th, 2014, 10:43 AM
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Mark Bichin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
It's funny, I overthink and overengineer stuff all the time and when it comes to something so basic like this, the obvious solution completely evades me. the rubber mallet is another obvious solution, but noooooo! I have to use muscle the thing off.
Don't feel bad. One of my favorite sayings is "common sense isn't that common". I spent about ten minutes "relaxing" in my front seat when I muscled my steering wheel off my first car as a kid.
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  #868  
Old May 13th, 2014, 12:53 PM
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Bradford Laughlin
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Got the Masai sliding windows in the mail today. Looking forward to getting these on later!
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  #869  
Old May 15th, 2014, 09:25 AM
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Bradford Laughlin
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Masai's instructions and the YouTube videos make this look like a breeze... it is a giant PITA!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by blaughva View Post
Got the Masai sliding windows in the mail today. Looking forward to getting these on later!
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  #870  
Old May 15th, 2014, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaughva View Post
Masai's instructions and the YouTube videos make this look like a breeze... it is a giant PITA!!
Do you get land rover monthly? The march 2013 has a great step by step install article. If you don't get it, Pm me your email and I can screen shot my digital issue and email it to you.
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  #871  
Old May 15th, 2014, 09:56 PM
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Bill Ski
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I loaded it up with the camping gear, so I can leave work early tomorrow and hit the midwest Rover Rally. Now it appears the starter shit the bed....
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  #872  
Old May 18th, 2014, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
I loaded it up with the camping gear, so I can leave work early tomorrow and hit the midwest Rover Rally. Now it appears the starter shit the bed....
Dude you have the worse luck with that truck. Good Luck!
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  #873  
Old May 18th, 2014, 09:36 AM
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Bill Ski
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I'm beginning to think it hates me to be honest, I have never had a more problematic Land Rover.
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  #874  
Old May 18th, 2014, 02:14 PM
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Finally re-installed my rebuilt OBA system. Wired to a carling switch on my console. Same setup basically as last time, just a cleaner setup with a commercial aluminum manifold instead of my homemade one. Also added a relay to the output of the pressure switch to increase longevity. 3 gallon stainless air tank (1000psi burst pressure) now mounted high behind the tire carrier instead of under the truck.

Pressure switch automatically shuts off output at 150psi. Lead hose from output of compressor is 1/2" ID Rubber. Internal hoses are 3/8" ID 250psi Goodyear rubber. Failsafe backup is a poppet safety bleed valve set at 175psi.

Front hose is just a leader to universal quick-release right now. I haven't quite figured out where to mount the front manifold so it stays under the hood for now.

Weird issue is that the carling switch "active" light stays on all the time. Not sure why this is the case, as I've tried reversing the two leads to no avail.
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  #875  
Old May 18th, 2014, 06:45 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Well done. I need to do mine. pics? Diagram? With all that mumbo jumbo I can only assume it effectively prevents side fumbling?
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  #876  
Old May 19th, 2014, 05:28 AM
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Oil change on my 300tdi with rotella t6 5w, made a noticeable improvement on engine noise
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  #877  
Old May 19th, 2014, 06:00 AM
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Removed everything outboard of the axle housing on the LH side front. Will be getting heavy duty front shafts, new swivel balls and seals, rebuilt calipers.
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  #878  
Old May 19th, 2014, 10:30 AM
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Lol....sorry charles...i guess it does sound a bit like i was implementing a retroencabulator

I will try to post pics and a writeup soon...
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  #879  
Old May 20th, 2014, 12:20 PM
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James Wallace
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Well first off, saw the crowd at the Overland Expo. Lots of fun meeting everybody. I had just done the steering ball joint and the front tie rod end. Piece of cake, they just had aged, cracked boots, not totally worn corroded POS's, good time to do them. So then, next morning did the track rod tie rod ends, again, piece of cake. Moving further south, attacked the ball joint on the rear axel/suspension triangle. It looked nasty, with almost no boot left. Not a piece of cake to get out. First the castelated nut (30mm) wouldn't budge, no matter what trick I used. So it got split with the ziz wheel and finally succumbed to be removed. Next the two bolts holding the mount needed breaker bar action to get to move, the nuts came off easy enough, but the bots took hours of Kroil and twisting before I could pound them out, a process that first off is over your head in a tight space, then allows all kinds of pulverized bits of raccoon crap to filter into your eyes. I get it out, finally, and now the real fun begins, getting the forking ball joint itself to come out of the mount. 20 minutes with a sledgehammer and a spacer did the trick.

Getting the new and old to mate was not too bad. So after cleaning up all the bolts and the mount I proceed to put it all back together. Well the triangle bolts together easily now, all cleaned up. But the axel has shifted a bit during all the violence and various animal crap shedding into my eyes. The ball joint does not want to penetrate! This kind of situation is precisely why I own two hydraulic jacks. Got it all lined up and it mated. What a pain in the ass! I felt as if I had been laying railroad tracks in the 1850's and looked it too. All in the name of do it now before it starts to get bad. All this fun for under $100.
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  #880  
Old May 20th, 2014, 12:25 PM
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Bill Adams
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I highly recommend buying the A arm ball joint already installed in the block. Then when you get the old one out you can work on it at your leisure, or toss it depending on your level of ambition/frustration.
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