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  #3721  
Old August 31st, 2016, 11:15 PM
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Mike Barnett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbull View Post
Thats interesting pipe work on that intercooler !
Not sure if that's a compliment but thanks!
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  #3722  
Old September 1st, 2016, 08:41 AM
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1of40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
FINALLY cleaned up my ghetto air filter setup over the weekend. It's so much quieter now!
nice job. i need to move in that direction as well. the noise under load isn't cool anymore and unnecessary.
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  #3723  
Old September 1st, 2016, 09:28 AM
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Doug Crowther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonAndy View Post
Good start to the weekend; pulled the 110 into the garage for new tie rod ends and "pop, clunk". sheered off a tie rod end. also have a good bend in the rod.
did that with my lwb. When I bought it the steering felt heavy, the truck had been sitting. Went to turn it around 180 degree's in the driveway and bamm. Scary

------ Follow up post added September 1st, 2016 09:33 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
FINALLY cleaned up my ghetto air filter setup over the weekend. It's so much quieter now!
Is that the 300 setup on a 200 ? getting the 300 intake house to route behind the cyl head between it and the bulkhead can be a mother. Did you use the 300 mount held on by two head bolts ?
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  #3724  
Old September 1st, 2016, 09:44 AM
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Jeff B
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Rift, how does that big closed can draw air better than an open cone filter??

On my 7.3 diesel, I converted it to a huge open cylinder filter instead of the small flat factory thinking the more air in= the better!


.
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  #3725  
Old September 1st, 2016, 10:37 AM
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Doug Crowther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Rift, how does that big closed can draw air better than an open cone filter??

On my 7.3 diesel, I converted it to a huge open cylinder filter instead of the small flat factory thinking the more air in= the better!


.
more surface area than the cone
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  #3726  
Old September 1st, 2016, 10:57 AM
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Cone air filters and cold air intakes were the biggest marketing joke of the last fifteen years.

Great for space savings and cheap installs. Terrible for noise and actual filtering.
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  #3727  
Old September 1st, 2016, 01:55 PM
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Mike Barnett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Is that the 300 setup on a 200 ? getting the 300 intake house to route behind the cyl head between it and the bulkhead can be a mother. Did you use the 300 mount held on by two head bolts ?
It is the 300 housing, but there isn't really enough room for the 300 intake to turbo rubber hose between the engine and the bulkhead. I'm using the plastic adapter from the disco 200 housing on the back and then the original 2.5TD intake hose from there to the turbo. Works pretty good but I need a new hose. As far as mounting, the 300 bracket puts everything too far back. I was working on a custom bracket to mount to the engine but ended up mounting directly to the footwell instead (yes, I drilled two holes in my bulkhead..) The plastic mounting strap is from Donaldson but is the right diameter for the factory housing. I did add a strip of sealing foam to the inside to keep it tight enough to keep the housing from rotating.
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  #3728  
Old September 1st, 2016, 03:05 PM
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Jeff B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Cone air filters and cold air intakes were the biggest marketing joke of the last fifteen years.

Great for space savings and cheap installs. Terrible for noise and actual filtering.

Hmmm... I dont know about saving any space and you cant hear much of anything over a 7.3 Ford anyway!
I'm running a 6637 Filter in my Ford.
That inlet alone is about 4" across.
6637 Replacement Intake Filter - Ford 7.3L Powerstroke

^^ It's absolutely huge compared to the flat stock filter. ^^
It's drawing much more air.

I havent done anything to my 300tdi filter system; just a stock RRC canister.

Anyway...just curious...



.
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  #3729  
Old September 1st, 2016, 04:00 PM
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Russell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Cone air filters and cold air intakes were the biggest marketing joke of the last fifteen years. Great for space savings and cheap installs. Terrible for noise and actual filtering.
Fine application when more noise is an inverse function of your manhood. Holy turbos!
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  #3730  
Old September 1st, 2016, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Fine application when more noise is an inverse function of your manhood. Holy turbos!
insane!
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  #3731  
Old September 1st, 2016, 04:24 PM
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David Frank
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Holy halon staggered system batman! That cigarette must smoke the competition! #GoFastMuch? ;-)

I think my manhood just shriveled a bit! ;-)
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  #3732  
Old September 1st, 2016, 04:44 PM
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Russell
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And this 50' Cigarette could be yours: 2016 Cigarette 50 Marauder, $ 999,950.00


Or, if you prefer catamarans, the 46' Skater: 2013 46 Skater, $ 824,950.00


Bad year for Skater. Two big crashes with casualties. Lakes of the Ozark Poker Run last weekend and Lake Lanier Poker Run in June. RIP
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  #3733  
Old September 1st, 2016, 11:41 PM
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Ryan Noonan
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Built up a waterproof headlight and driving light relay/fuse box. It goes in tomorrow. Driving lights will finally be tied to the high beams relay power like they are supposed to be instead of being able to switch them on separately.

Wired up a battery bus with a negative bus bar that I'm powering directly from the battery via a 100 amp relay which will be ignition switched so I don't have to try to tap into any more wires behind the dash anymore.

Since I am in the electrical renovation mode, figured I'd put in some remote battery terminals under the hood so I didn't have to pull my seat box open every time I wanted to air up or jumpstart a jeep-in-need of assistance. That goes in tomorrow as well.

However, while I had my radiator grille cover off, I got a really good look at how oh-so-utterly corroded my radiator is. Guess that'll be my next project. Wah waah.
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  #3734  
Old September 2nd, 2016, 06:08 PM
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Ryan Noonan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nooner View Post
Built up a waterproof headlight and driving light relay/fuse box. It goes in tomorrow. Driving lights will finally be tied to the high beams relay power like they are supposed to be instead of being able to switch them on separately.
Update: It is IN. Only hiccup was that the high beam and low beam wires were backwards compared to the wire diagram I was looking at. On mine, the High Beam connected to the side H4 tab and the Low Beam connected to the top one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nooner View Post
Since I am in the electrical renovation mode, figured I'd put in some remote battery terminals under the hood so I didn't have to pull my seat box open every time
Victory. THIS WORKED AWESOME. Mounted it to the drivers side fender and ran 1/0 AWG tinned battery cable back to the negative terminal and the switched side of the Blue Sea ML-RBS 7700 under the seat box. Already aired down and aired back up and didn't have to open the seat box.
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  #3735  
Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:31 PM
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Brett
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Well, it's been over the last bunch of todays. Timing belt changed. New water pump. New radiator and hoses. New serpentine belt. New idler bearing in the belt tensioner. Adjusted valve clearances. Resealed leaking block heater. New SDO Dorman clutch master and braided hose, stainless headlight ring and mounting kit and stainless vent hinge pins. New headlights (the backs of the old ones crumbled in my hands when I removed them) and relay harness. New heater core and used but better condition heater motor. Enlarged heater hole in bulkhead. New VDO speedo and gauges (fuel, engine temp and oil pressure). Removed roof and hopefully water proofed it then painted. New raised air intake. Changed and/or topped up all oils.

Damn! Maybe I should have posted this in the truck build up and restore section.















Brett

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  #3736  
Old September 3rd, 2016, 10:06 PM
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Adam
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SuperPro bushing kit. Just the rear A arm left to do. Bloody knuckles. Shout out to my new Harbor Freight 20 ton press.

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  #3737  
Old September 3rd, 2016, 11:05 PM
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Brian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moose View Post
Well, it's been over the last bunch of todays. Timing belt changed. New water pump. New radiator and hoses. New serpentine belt. New idler bearing in the belt tensioner. Adjusted valve clearances. Resealed leaking block heater. New SDO Dorman clutch master and braided hose, stainless headlight ring and mounting kit and stainless vent hinge pins. New headlights (the backs of the old ones crumbled in my hands when I removed them) and relay harness. New heater core and used but better condition heater motor. Enlarged heater hole in bulkhead. New VDO speedo and gauges (fuel, engine temp and oil pressure). Removed roof and hopefully water proofed it then painted. New raised air intake. Changed and/or topped up all oils. Damn! Maybe I should have posted this in the truck build up and restore section. Brett

Holy smokes doode! That's awesome!
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  #3738  
Old September 3rd, 2016, 11:40 PM
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Dave
1989 110SW 1 of 2,000,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st0k3d View Post
SuperPro bushing kit. Just the rear A arm left to do. Bloody knuckles. Shout out to my new Harbor Freight 20 ton press.

That press is also good for assembling AKs.
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  #3739  
Old September 4th, 2016, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Hmmm... I dont know about saving any space and you cant hear much of anything over a 7.3 Ford anyway!
I'm running a 6637 Filter in my Ford.
That inlet alone is about 4" across.
6637 Replacement Intake Filter - Ford 7.3L Powerstroke

^^ It's absolutely huge compared to the flat stock filter. ^^
It's drawing much more air.

I havent done anything to my 300tdi filter system; just a stock RRC canister.

Anyway...just curious...



.
wow...that's not a cone filter at all!
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  #3740  
Old September 4th, 2016, 05:32 PM
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Steve Anderson
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Bare Knuckles Badge

So I couldn't bring my self to drilling holes in the truck so I devised this workaround that turned out pretty cool.

Basically, it's an 1/8" alloy plate slotted to fit the three spare tire bolt rods and a 1/4" disc, cut to the same diameter as the badge. Once installed behind the wheel, the disc brings the badge out more flush with the wheel face.

Unfortunately, this approach won't work on an alloy spare as the center bore is too small diameter for the BKB badge.

If there's any interest, I can pass on the math. I used a water jet to cut the parts, then powder coated prior to assembly (rivets). Overall, I'm pleased with the results - nice bit f brightwork on the back end.

Steve
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