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  #3341  
Old April 23rd, 2016, 06:50 AM
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Brian
86 D110 SW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
Installed a sound dampener and a thermal barrier. I also repaired the leaking rear washer. No more shower in the drivers seat while spraying the rear window.
Very nice Dave - is that Second Skin ?
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  #3342  
Old April 23rd, 2016, 09:27 AM
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Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
I also repaired the leaking rear washer. No more shower in the drivers seat while spraying the rear window.
I have that same problem, haha. Actually, yesterday I topped up my washer fluid and it started leaking onto the brake pedal, which is where is normally leaks when I would press the rear wash button. I guess I have to fix it now
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  #3343  
Old April 23rd, 2016, 01:08 PM
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Mike
1988 RHD 110 5 Door
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Replaced the little spring in the rear door latch. Now I can actually lock the door without climbing through the car. Nice
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  #3344  
Old April 23rd, 2016, 01:40 PM
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Brian
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Replaced the rusty tub nuts with stainless steel ones from mcmcaster. Snapped two of the weld nuts, of course one was on the plate directly in the middle of the tub :facepalm ...had to get really creative to get a washer and nut back there.
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  #3345  
Old April 23rd, 2016, 08:23 PM
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Brian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostChord View Post
Replaced the rusty tub nuts with stainless steel ones from mcmcaster. Snapped two of the weld nuts, of course one was on the plate directly in the middle of the tub :facepalm ...had to get really creative to get a washer and nut back there.
Followed that up with the front door sills with my daughter...a great little helper and got her first bloody knuckles. One tear, and then toughed it out. Proud dad.
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  #3346  
Old April 24th, 2016, 03:11 PM
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Adam
1988 D90 RHD 19J
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Used the H20 Ingress bulletin and calked all of the ribs on the roof, drip rails, front lip above windshield, and windshield hinge covers....had a small leak that would run water above the front doors by the top of the A post if the truck was parked on an incline nose down...eventually I have to remove the headliner for cleaning, insulation and recover but wanted to try and stop the water...I guess if it continues removing the headliner is prob the only way to find the leak source...
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  #3347  
Old April 24th, 2016, 07:02 PM
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Brian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostChord View Post
Followed that up with the front door sills with my daughter...a great little helper and got her first bloody knuckles. One tear, and then toughed it out. Proud dad.
Repeated this on the second row sills, sans bloody knuckles (she's getting better ) ....5 of the six broke during removal and found an Italian coin in the process. Pretty cool.
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  #3348  
Old April 25th, 2016, 10:14 AM
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Lincoln Wong
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What have you done to your Defender today.

Found natural white 5000 k LEDs for the sidelamps that better match the JW speaker LED head light color, relieving my OCD. See the difference, passenger side 6000k (blue-white), drivers side 5000k (natural white).



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  #3349  
Old April 25th, 2016, 11:55 AM
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Chris
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mounted the fire extinguisher to roll bar. Picked up a 10 BC unit from big box store for $18. Then, used 3 zip ties to secure the included plastic mount to the rollbar.
I find I can remove the extinguisher by reaching around the seat from driver seat.
Hope I'll never have to use it.

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  #3350  
Old April 26th, 2016, 07:26 PM
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Adam
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Just a follow-up...had a huge rain storm last night and came out to a dry truck!...really helped with all of the sealing...


Quote:
Originally Posted by icnsltmfg View Post
Used the H20 Ingress bulletin and calked all of the ribs on the roof, drip rails, front lip above windshield, and windshield hinge covers....had a small leak that would run water above the front doors by the top of the A post if the truck was parked on an incline nose down...eventually I have to remove the headliner for cleaning, insulation and recover but wanted to try and stop the water...I guess if it continues removing the headliner is prob the only way to find the leak source...
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  #3351  
Old April 26th, 2016, 07:41 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icnsltmfg View Post
Just a follow-up...had a huge rain storm last night and came out to a dry truck!...really helped with all of the sealing...
I've got the same leak on both sides that's been absolutely killing me....puddles in the same exact spot driver & passenger. I've already replaced the hinge vent gaskets with the Series rubber type....but I sort of suspect the windscreen to bulkhead hinges as you reference below. Did you just replace the gaskets or did you just caulk them?

My leak pics below:
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  #3352  
Old April 26th, 2016, 07:47 PM
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Used clear sealer and put a thin bead around them...yet that leak may be from the dog leg (door gasket) just above the door check strap as water can get behind there and onto that check strap and then to the floor...
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  #3353  
Old April 26th, 2016, 08:06 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icnsltmfg View Post
Used clear sealer and put a thin bead around them...yet that leak may be from the dog leg (door gasket) just above the door check strap as water can get behind there and onto that check strap and then to the floor...
You know what...I bet you're right actually. It's sort of *looked* like it was coming from behind the check strap cover. I am - admittedly - not running genuine front door seals, and I wonder if that is the contributing factor. I could probably jam some strip-caulk in the door gasket dog leg temporarily to see if that thwarts the leak (while I pony up for some genuine seals)...
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  #3354  
Old April 27th, 2016, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icnsltmfg View Post
Used clear sealer and put a thin bead around them...yet that leak may be from the dog leg (door gasket) just above the door check strap as water can get behind there and onto that check strap and then to the floor...
Which brand/type of clear sealer did you use? I need to seal the roof seams, along with a few places illustrated in the water ingress guide.
I am looking at either 3M clear Auto Seam Sealer 08551 ("thin syrup" consistency) or the 3M urethane seam sealer in white 08368 (thicker paste) - as a few of the gaps are a little wider.

I believe the clear auto seam sealer has consistency more like the Kent Check Lek in the water ingress guide.

Thanks!
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  #3355  
Old April 27th, 2016, 07:48 AM
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I replaced one of my bulkhead vent seals with the factory replacement part (foam) and it doesn't leak at all. The Series seals on my 110 leaked badly.
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  #3356  
Old April 27th, 2016, 08:54 AM
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Adam
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The 3M would prob be the best (just check to see if it needs to be heat cured)...I actually used DAP 3.0...very flexible and 100% waterproof with good temp performance...you really want to push it into the seams with your fingers...

Quote:
Originally Posted by lithium1330 View Post
Which brand/type of clear sealer did you use? I need to seal the roof seams, along with a few places illustrated in the water ingress guide.
I am looking at either 3M clear Auto Seam Sealer 08551 ("thin syrup" consistency) or the 3M urethane seam sealer in white 08368 (thicker paste) - as a few of the gaps are a little wider.

I believe the clear auto seam sealer has consistency more like the Kent Check Lek in the water ingress guide.

Thanks!
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Rovers Run on Diesel

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  #3357  
Old April 27th, 2016, 09:28 PM
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Ryan Noonan
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Swapped 3.9L RRC PROM chip into ECU to get rid of NAS speed limiter (success!!)

Realized my electric fans stopped running since a shop replaced my bumper and had trouble rewiring my Hella driving lights. Tested the fan motors (good), tested the relays (good), tested the through-voltage to the fans (good), tested the thermostat (good), tested the voltage to the relays...no voltage to the relays... Followed the breadcrumbs/wire bundle to... an unplugged wire under the fuse box.

Plugged it in.

5 hours of troubleshooting... Turns out all I had to do was plug it in.

Still feels good...even if the wife doesn't understand.
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  #3358  
Old April 27th, 2016, 09:37 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I replaced one of my bulkhead vent seals with the factory replacement part (foam) and it doesn't leak at all. The Series seals on my 110 leaked badly.
I've been good with the stock Foam seams for a long time.. easy to do and so far as long you actually close them all the way.. no leaks..
my top/truck has no silicone use as well..

amazingly - i have exactly 1 water leak i can't figure out - a small drip next to the transmission tunnel on the floor mat.. it's really small (2" wide after hours and hours) and only manifests after prolonged rain. the rest of the time its dry and my truck is dry underneath now too...


the leak is seemly not coming from anywhere .. anyway i'll get it figured out one of these days.. but i am about ready to pull the hard top and go back to ST for the summer so the eternal hamster wheel of leaks will start again ...
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  #3359  
Old April 29th, 2016, 10:32 PM
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Fixed an oil leak. It was dripping from under the passenger seat box...weird. Coming from the hole at the top of the picture.



Lifted the seat cover to find an easy fix! Gotta love what you find in used cars. Easiest fix to date.

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  #3360  
Old April 29th, 2016, 10:47 PM
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scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedpin View Post
Used a 34$ oil tarp off amazon to make a 3/4 surrey. Installed 3 additional grommets on leading and trailing edge. Laced with 550 cord. Came out just how I wanted. Now to install Nas bench seat.
nice!
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