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  #3161  
Old February 28th, 2016, 04:17 PM
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No worries. I haven't any tech arguments but I know if I change the oil in my frying pan before it evaporates I don't get sludge. .

But seriously, my opinion is just based on the real life experience of a close friend that owns a LR shop. He primarily sees D2's and above. In his experience the failed engines in the D2's have been with the kind of people that change oil at the cheapest place possible and when it is convenient. They don't change any other fluids or filters on average and the excuse is they do t plan to hold on to the vehicle. Many times they over buy and are car poor so it makes sense from that perspective. He says it's fascinating how people live their lives and what a disregard there is for following the simplest instruction across the board.
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  #3162  
Old February 28th, 2016, 06:25 PM
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Jimmy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Departing90 View Post
Im sorry, there's no other way to say this. Your mechanic is a certified idiot!
There are ONLY 3 reasons why oil sludge occurs:

1, incorrect type of oil is used
2, oil starvation
3, not changing on time

And ALL 3 lead to overheating of oil and accumulate sludge. Think of heavy, sludge oil in your cooking pan.

Thoes crazy cats at LR made a huge mistake by omitting the oil cooler in the 03/04 Disco that they neither admitted to or rectified leaving 1000s of owners with blown engines!

Ive personally added about 20 oil coolers to the 03/04 Disco engines eliminating everything from noisy lifters to overheating with 100% success. Its got to tell you something when they use 200 coolant to cool the oil. Has that mechanic of yours ever measured the oil temp? I thought not!

When you add a cooler and lines you increase the oil capacity of 2 qts and decrease block tempts considerably and to within safe margins eliminating the dropped liners and overheating issues attributed to thoes engines even at "normal" operating temps on cooler days!
This sounds like a load of BS to me. If you need an oil cooler to fix an overheating issue, then there is some other issue with the motor.

Low oil temperatures cause sludge, high oil temperatures cause the oil to break down which will leave a varnish, not sludge. Engine oil doesn't break down at 200F... Have you ever taken apart a motor that has only been used on short trips? I do it all the time and there is a lot of sludge.
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  #3163  
Old February 28th, 2016, 06:27 PM
Departing90
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Are you aware that on D2s with dropped liners, its the very same 2 liners that drop each and every time on every engine. Does your friend chalk that up to cheap oil and no filters or could it possibly be a manufacturing defect exasperated by excessive prolonged engine heat brought on by a lack of an oil cooler in the 03/04!? Just a thought........

You seem to have your heart set on this no matter what.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
No worries. I haven't any tech arguments but I know if I change the oil in my frying pan before it evaporates I don't get sludge. .

But seriously, my opinion is just based on the real life experience of a close friend that owns a LR shop. He primarily sees D2's and above. In his experience the failed engines in the D2's have been with the kind of people that change oil at the cheapest place possible and when it is convenient. They don't change any other fluids or filters on average and the excuse is they do t plan to hold on to the vehicle. Many times they over buy and are car poor so it makes sense from that perspective. He says it's fascinating how people live their lives and what a disregard there is for following the simplest instruction across the board.
------ Follow up post added February 28th, 2016 06:32 PM ------

You are 100% right and im 100% wrong on all counts.
Please ignore my post.

Carry on...........


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
This sounds like a load of BS to me. If you need an oil cooler to fix an overheating issue, then there is some other issue with the motor.

Low oil temperatures cause sludge, high oil temperatures cause the oil to break down which will leave a varnish, not sludge. Engine oil doesn't break down at 200F... Have you ever taken apart a motor that has only been used on short trips? I do it all the time and there is a lot of sludge.
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  #3164  
Old February 29th, 2016, 02:42 PM
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test fit of my gutter mount. Designed it in Corel CAD and 3D printed it. The latching part is just dangling since I didn't have any M6 bolts handy. This is 4" wide. I cut the design down to 3" and will print another once I get some more PLA.

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  #3165  
Old February 29th, 2016, 03:09 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Probably my last project for a while.. Well at least until I burn through the parts that have been piling up waiting on time to do them.

New shoes..
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  #3166  
Old February 29th, 2016, 04:39 PM
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wayne p
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Installed SHP's metal binnacle mount and a new OEM binnacle, which is much thicker than the original. Finally got tired of nudging the instrument panel back after big bumps. Should have done this years ago.
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  #3167  
Old February 29th, 2016, 05:30 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackField View Post
test fit of my gutter mount. Designed it in Corel CAD and 3D printed it. The latching part is just dangling since I didn't have any M6 bolts handy. This is 4" wide. I cut the design down to 3" and will print another once I get some more PLA.

That's a pretty large printer you must have. Model?
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  #3168  
Old February 29th, 2016, 07:19 PM
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I have a Robo 3D R1+ it has a 10x9x8 print volume. The outside ribs have to be printed one at a time because they take up the whole bed. I'm very happy with it with only a few minor tweaks.
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  #3169  
Old February 29th, 2016, 07:52 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Very nice. The picture makes it seem larger but that's still a nice size.
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  #3170  
Old March 3rd, 2016, 01:29 AM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Got stuck today outside the amavida coffee shop in rosemary beach, fl. when I got back in the truck, tried to start, starter motor did not engage and just spun non-stop. Had to disconnect the battery to get the starter to stop spinning even with the ignition off. It spun for so long that the battery started to lose charge and when I got a jump the starter finally quit spinning and I was able to start it and get it to engage. After that I drove to O'Reillys to get a new battery as mine was five years old. I'm hoping the old battery was the issue because I've already replaced the starter and as I recall it was fairly difficult extracting the two allen bolts.
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  #3171  
Old March 4th, 2016, 04:05 PM
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Installed jump seats. Better for the kids (than the bench) now that they are getting older.

Also oem springs and bilsteins. Tremendous improvement to ride.

Oh, and installed the badger 2 fds top.

Almost ready for spring!

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  #3172  
Old March 4th, 2016, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssi19 View Post
Installed jump seats. Better for the kids (than the bench) now that they are getting older.

Also oem springs and bilsteins. Tremendous improvement to ride.

Oh, and installed the badger 2 fds top.

Almost ready for spring!

Attachment 144230
What jump seats are those?
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  #3173  
Old March 4th, 2016, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WBSurfer View Post
What jump seats are those?
exmoor trim (denim vinyl) from rovers north.
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  #3174  
Old March 4th, 2016, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssi19 View Post
exmoor trim (denim vinyl) from rovers north.
Are they black?
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  #3175  
Old March 4th, 2016, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WBSurfer View Post
Are they black?
No. Grey.
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  #3176  
Old March 5th, 2016, 03:06 AM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Replaced my starter tonight, the new battery did not solve my issue and the starter gear would still sometimes just spin without kicking the gear out. Removal went easier the second time around (first was ~60,000miles ago when I had to cut the head of one of the bolts off and the rest of the bolt came out just using my fingers!). The hardest part this time was removing and re-installing the heat shield. On removal it wouldn't come out the bottom and on refit it took quite a bit of patience and manipulating to get the heat shield back in place and then in just the right spot to start the one 10mm bolt that secures it to a bracket in the RH motor mount bracket.
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  #3177  
Old March 5th, 2016, 11:35 PM
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I finished up installing Superpro bushings on my D90. The thing almost drives like a new vehicle now. No more wandering and a smoother ride. Definitely worth the money and effort.
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  #3178  
Old March 6th, 2016, 06:14 PM
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New rear brake cylinders and replaced a copper brake line..then full bleed
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  #3179  
Old March 10th, 2016, 09:41 AM
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wasting my life rebuilding my truck.

Designed and built a new minimalist dash based on lessons I learned over the last 5 years. 5052 and 3003 aluminum. I was inspired by a ride in a Robinson R44.

I'm not sure what gauge I want for the center. I originally thought a clock, but then I realized that I don't have a gauge for my OBA. Choices choices..
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  #3180  
Old March 10th, 2016, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
wasting my life rebuilding my truck. Designed and built a new minimalist dash based on lessons I learned over the last 5 years. 5052 and 3003 aluminum. I was inspired by a ride in a Robinson R44. I'm not sure what gauge I want for the center. I originally thought a clock, but then I realized that I don't have a gauge for my OBA. Choices choices..
Very very nice!

I am going to do something like that but about half size - but at the rate I am going to will be this time next year before I get to it.
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