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  #3061  
Old February 12th, 2016, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Has anyone that has had their oil cooler lines replaced with Genuine ones had them fail? I'd like to see an example of Genuine ones that have cracked instantly after installing, and I'd also like to know if they were bought through a dealer or aftermarket parts supplier. You sound like one of those people that thinks if you don't switch to synthetic oil immediately your motor will explode. For the record, I agree that the upgraded oil cooler liners are a superior option over Genuine, but Genuine is cheap for me. I replaced mine with Genuine ones and will again in probably 10 years.
Highly doubt it. Funny thing is who the hell knows what quality/grade hose is under all that pretty Stainless? I'm removing mine and tapping out.
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  #3062  
Old February 12th, 2016, 09:10 AM
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Highly doubt it. Funny thing is who the hell knows what quality/grade hose is under all that pretty Stainless? I'm removing mine and tapping out.
That's a good point, but the routing of the stainless hoses is much better. That being said, I've seen at least 5 stainless brake lines fail off road. IIRC stainless brake lines do not pass state inspection in Va.
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  #3063  
Old February 12th, 2016, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
That's a good point, but the routing of the stainless hoses is much better. That being said, I've seen at least 5 stainless brake lines fail off road. IIRC stainless brake lines do not pass state inspection in Va.
Yep, I was told by the tech the last time I bothered to have my 90 inspected (3+years ago) that they can't inspect their condition.
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  #3064  
Old February 12th, 2016, 09:29 AM
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barry f
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Yep, I was told by the tech the last time I bothered to have my 90 inspected (3+years ago) that they can't inspect their condition.
Isn't it less of an issue in a 97? Why remove entirely? Started to search the forum for the faulty genuine ones but I'm on the toilet and can't wipe and type at same time so before it wastes ten more pages on nothing let's drop it. And can someone get webeceya a Virginia tech mascot costume so he can really show his pride.
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  #3065  
Old February 12th, 2016, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Isn't it less of an issue in a 97? Why remove entirely?

Started to search the forum for the faulty genuine ones but I'm on the toilet and can't wipe and type at same time so before wastes ten more pages on nothing let's drop it.

And can someone get webeceya a Virginia tech mascot costume so he can really show his pride.
The search function on this forum is pretty useless.

I thought the 97's still have a similar routing, but I may be wrong. The one I'm working on came from ECR and has their stainless lines. Regardless, the lines are rubber and should be considered a maintenance item.
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  #3066  
Old February 12th, 2016, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Isn't it less of an issue in a 97? Why remove entirely? Started to search the forum for the faulty genuine ones but I'm on the toilet and can't wipe and type at same time so before it wastes ten more pages on nothing let's drop it. And can someone get webeceya a Virginia tech mascot costume so he can really show his pride.
I think 10 years ago there was less of an opinion. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I've heard a few times that D2's didn't come with lines. Capping off seems like a no brainer to me cause I don't tow or use mine in extreme hot conditions. I removed my condenser fan too.
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  #3067  
Old February 12th, 2016, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
I think 10 years ago there was less of an opinion. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I've heard a few times that D2's didn't come with lines. Capping off seems like a no brainer to me cause I don't tow or use mine in extreme hot conditions. I removed my condenser fan too.
2003 and 2004 Discoverys don't have an oil cooler.

I imagine your a/c pressures are through the roof in the summer in traffic without a condenser fan.
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  #3068  
Old February 12th, 2016, 12:38 PM
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Mark Miller
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D90 tops hard top painted and installed, thank you Brewie and LRC.. Looks great I'll take better shots when it's light out.

Oh my that looks awesome Rob!
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  #3069  
Old February 12th, 2016, 03:40 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Thanks mark - I'm following your lead...next up is a pair of led bars and some wolfs with 255/85's if I can actually buy them.
Then some other stuff..
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  #3070  
Old February 12th, 2016, 04:35 PM
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On the paint?!
Yep. Puma paint is stronger-er.
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  #3071  
Old February 13th, 2016, 05:48 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Better pictures of the top
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  #3072  
Old February 13th, 2016, 06:23 PM
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Jason Herring
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Replaced the blown turbo on my 300tdi with a $350 unit from eBay, adjusted boost up to 16psi - feels more peppy.
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  #3073  
Old February 13th, 2016, 08:16 PM
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Installed my new plates.
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  #3074  
Old February 14th, 2016, 10:04 AM
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Installed 3/4" rubber matting the load space and second row floor. Picked up the matting at tractor supply - sold in a 4' x 8' sheet for around $40. Very stout and heavy.

Used one of the kid's silver sharpie markers and an old carpenter's chalk line to lay out the measurements on the mats.

Sharp razor blades (needed several - and when I was too lazy to go back in the garage again for another one, used my knife - this in not recommended) and patience are key for an easy process. Helps to lift and maneuver the matting after the initial cut to effectively peel it back as you go. There were times I was thinking to myself that there has to be an easier way, but in the end, it turned out great. Very pleased with this thick, heavy matting.

Decided to cut out a couple holes for the second row seat belt brackets that are on the tub floor, instead of reinstalling the seat belt brackets on top of the matting. Did this for easier removal of the load space mat.

Has now been dog tested and approved.
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  #3075  
Old February 14th, 2016, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostChord View Post
Installed 3/4" rubber matting the load space and second row floor. Picked up the matting at tractor supply - sold in a 4' x 8' sheet for around $40. Very stout and heavy.

Used one of the kid's silver sharpie markers and an old carpenter's chalk line to lay out the measurements on the mats.

Sharp razor blades (needed several - and when I was too lazy to go back in the garage again for another one, used my knife - this in not recommended) and patience are key for an easy process. Helps to lift and maneuver the matting after the initial cut to effectively peel it back as you go. There were times I was thinking to myself that there has to be an easier way, but in the end, it turned out great. Very pleased with this thick, heavy matting.

Decided to cut out a couple holes for the second row seat belt brackets that are on the tub floor, instead of reinstalling the seat belt brackets on top of the matting. Did this for easier removal of the load space mat.

Has now been dog tested and approved.
I've been planning on doing this as well but cutting it has been the issue. Some have recommended a circular saw with the right blade might work better than razor blades. Sawzall?
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  #3076  
Old February 14th, 2016, 10:32 AM
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I've been planning on doing this as well but cutting it has been the issue. Some have recommended a circular saw with the right blade might work better than razor blades. Sawzall?
I thought about that during the process, but couldn't find a good set up where I would be able to get a clean cut without damaging something - the 4' x 8' sheets take up a lot of space. Plus, at 3/4" thick, they are heavy and cumbersome to maneuver. I also didn't want to melt or otherwise monkey up the mat. With sharp razor blades, it really wasn't bad at all. Lifting/bending it with each pass is what I found most helpful.
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  #3077  
Old February 14th, 2016, 04:35 PM
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William Skidmore
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When ever you are cutting anything with thickness it helps to have a shit ton of razor blades and place a 1'x1/2 stick under to lift the material up so that you can cut in clean lines through little by little down and through the material. Told to me by Jarek. (paraphrased)
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  #3078  
Old February 15th, 2016, 12:54 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
When ever you are cutting anything with thickness it helps to have a shit ton of razor blades and place a 1'x1/2 stick under to lift the material up so that you can cut in clean lines through little by little down and through the material. Told to me by Jarek. (paraphrased)
And just remember, it's gonna take a bunch of passes to get through it. It's so much easier to just do 6 lighter passes than 1-3 where you fucking battle the heavy stuff. I find i have to constantly remind myself as i go as I tend to get tired of repetition and start cutting harder and harder.

I haven't done a load mat like this (yet) but it's the same when cutting any thick material. Hell, this holds true even for foam core.
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  #3079  
Old February 15th, 2016, 01:21 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Can you use a hot wire cutter on the stuff?
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  #3080  
Old February 15th, 2016, 01:30 PM
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Can you use a hot wire cutter on the stuff?
I was wondering if an electric carving knife would work as well.
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