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  #2821  
Old November 12th, 2015, 05:21 PM
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1995 D90 SW #365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlynch356 View Post
I asked them to hand torque the lug nuts and not use an air wrench.
Why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
You are very lucky. For that reason I do as much work as I can on my vehicals and always double check other peoples work.
Oddly enough, out of the thousands of lug nuts I have tightened, the only one's I've ever left loose were on my own vehicle. I was working late on my own truck and I think the shop compressor had been shut off so my impact wasn't going at full power. I actually remember noticing it but didn't bother to check. It took at least a month for the lugs to loosen and the wheel didn't fall off. Its pretty obvious when lugs are loose. The wheel will click and cause a light vibration.
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  #2822  
Old November 12th, 2015, 05:24 PM
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Clay DeWan
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Took the B pillar Exmor trim cover that comes with the Soft top Padding that RN is selling and slid it between the best top and the B pillar to take up some slack in the old Best Top. Worked great in both cutting down the flapping and subsequent noise - as the padding covers come with holes in it where the snaps for the top can affix to the B pillar. Can post picks if anyone cares.
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  #2823  
Old November 12th, 2015, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDeWan View Post
Took the B pillar Exmor trim cover that comes with the Soft top Padding that RN is selling and slid it between the best top and the B pillar to take up some slack in the old Best Top. Worked great in both cutting down the flapping and subsequent noise - as the padding covers come with holes in it where the snaps for the top can affix to the B pillar. Can post picks if anyone cares.
now that is a good idea. this badger gives me brain damage..... no jokes please.
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  #2824  
Old November 12th, 2015, 05:51 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Why?
They are a bitch to get off on the trail when over torqued...
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  #2825  
Old November 12th, 2015, 06:19 PM
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Always hand torque with a torque wrench. I carry a spare torque wrench and in an emergency situation I can always use as a breaker bar or in a apocalyptic situation it can be used as weapon.
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  #2826  
Old November 12th, 2015, 06:27 PM
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I never ever use an impact wrench, always a breaker bar to loosen and a torque wrench to tighten.

When I "had" to go to the tire store to get new shoes, they used an inpact wrench to tighten the lugs. I had to use a 5 foot (yes 5 foot!) cheater bar to loosen! I can't believe none of the lugs didn't snap...
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  #2827  
Old November 12th, 2015, 06:43 PM
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Every mechanic should be using one of these. Although I doubt anyone at a tire shop uses one.
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  #2828  
Old November 13th, 2015, 11:56 AM
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Leveled out my mod 110. Tried Front heavy duty ome 751 but only gave me .5 inch lift. Then used medium 764 and got 2 inches. Sits right now. Running 255's/85, factory mod rear hd springs. Ground to middle of wheel arch.. 36.5" front and 37" rear.

Before pic and after pics.
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  #2829  
Old November 13th, 2015, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d90boy View Post
now that is a good idea. this badger gives me brain damage..... no jokes please.
Which badger are you running? My Badger I is still tight with zero flapping. And its 10 years old.
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  #2830  
Old November 13th, 2015, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Every mechanic should be using one of these. Although I doubt anyone at a tire shop uses one.
I've seen those but just don't get how they work.
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  #2831  
Old November 13th, 2015, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
I've seen those but just don't get how they work.
When you add an extension to a socket and use it with an impact it loses power. The longer the extension the less power you have. Same goes for thickness. The thinner the extension the less power you have. Its not super precise when you consider all of the other variables that go into torque calculations, but its just a lug nut... I don't think you'd want to use a torque stick, or an impact for that matter, to torque down head bolts.
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  #2832  
Old November 14th, 2015, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Every mechanic should be using one of these. Although I doubt anyone at a tire shop uses one.
Will you use one when you remount my wheels?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #2833  
Old November 14th, 2015, 11:37 AM
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Put the Masai roof rack back on. Landy won't fit in the garage with it on, but wifey & I are taking the hounds to the coast for a week over thanksgiving so I wanted to have it on for packing all our stuff.



Cheers,

Paul.
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  #2834  
Old November 14th, 2015, 11:39 AM
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Sold some stuff on CL so I can put my truck in the barn.
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  #2835  
Old November 14th, 2015, 07:45 PM
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Topped off swivel balls with LR grease. Removed, cleaned, refitted all ABS sensors as well as the inline connections in the engine bay which I found were cracking (see pic). Guess I'll have to see about replacing these.
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  #2836  
Old November 14th, 2015, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
Topped off swivel balls with LR grease. Removed, cleaned, refitted all ABS sensors as well as the inline connections in the engine bay which I found were cracking (see pic). Guess I'll have to see about replacing these.
ABS on a 90 ?
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  #2837  
Old November 14th, 2015, 09:06 PM
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ABS sensors only. I guess they might also be called rough road sensors? I've read that LR put ABS sensors on the '97 NAS Defenders but no (or a very basic) ABS system. The sensors are known for causing the check engine light to come on when they detect that the truck is off-road so that the engine management system will ignore any misfire codes. Unfortunately for me, my check engine light has been going on and off for the past few months while never driving off-road. I've gone to Autozone or O'Reilley's multiple times when my check engine light is on to get it scanned only to find it is code P1317; an ABS sensor code meaning 'Rough Road ABS low line fault'. My truck runs fine the whole time, I've cleaned the sensors before, the CEL goes off and comes back on with the same code all the time. I've heard that the driver's side front sensor is usually the culprit.
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  #2838  
Old November 15th, 2015, 02:21 AM
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Andrew Wolfe
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Just installed a new set of RN black perforated steel wheels, 6.5x16, with Cooper S/T Maxx tires in 255/85-16. Love the look vs stock white and skinnies, seems to ride quite a bit better. Old tires were 16 years old. With stock suspension I get a bit of rub at full lock, so I'll adjust the steering stops.
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  #2839  
Old November 15th, 2015, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
ABS sensors only. I guess they might also be called rough road sensors? I've read that LR put ABS sensors on the '97 NAS Defenders but no (or a very basic) ABS system. The sensors are known for causing the check engine light to come on when they detect that the truck is off-road so that the engine management system will ignore any misfire codes. Unfortunately for me, my check engine light has been going on and off for the past few months while never driving off-road. I've gone to Autozone or O'Reilley's multiple times when my check engine light is on to get it scanned only to find it is code P1317; an ABS sensor code meaning 'Rough Road ABS low line fault'. My truck runs fine the whole time, I've cleaned the sensors before, the CEL goes off and comes back on with the same code all the time. I've heard that the driver's side front sensor is usually the culprit.
Usually the sensors just back out a little bit and just need to be tapped back down into place.
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  #2840  
Old November 15th, 2015, 10:20 AM
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Did some plumbing yesterday. Need to sync up the exhaust, turbo, wire up the fan, pull fuel up the lines, cross my fingers and crank her up. I'm absolutely sure I'm forgetting something but it's getting close.
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