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What have you done to your Defender today.

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768K views 6K replies 536 participants last post by  SadKingBilly 
#1 ·
Well this Thread is a very popular thread on a couple other forums that I frequent. So, I thought I'd give it a go on here too..

I after a little Blasphemous session got my new windscreen and seal installed.

 
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#5,046 ·
More like this week with my Defender... Had to replace my fuel pump on my '97 again the other evening! Special thanks to Atlantic British for sending me a replacement unit! Been throwing parts at my truck lately, replaced MAF sensor, the charcoal canister; thinking that would solve my issue of not being able to fill the tank without the pump handle clicking off; it did not! The truck started missing at idle and popping through the intake especially when stepping on the gas. Hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and noticed the fuel pressure dropping to about 12-16lbs per square inch at idle. After replacing the pump the truck still continued to miss, the CEL illuminated P1317, P0300, P0307, P1316, P1314, P1313, even P1178 after driving it to and from work today. After the first 6 codes I removed each spark plug, cleaned and gapped to .035-.040 reinstalled... after that it ran like a sewing machine! Cleared all seven codes this evening. Getting real good at changing fuel pumps! Oh, and I'm back to the Econoseal MK II connector, the MK I would not clip on.
463013


463014
 
#5,054 ·
Today I fit an under hood mat to my 90. I read on this forum about the common options that dont hold up well or act as a sponge when wet. Based on this I went with the B-Quiet HLiner.
Once I got the hood off and ready to line, I realized parts of it are 'double walled' and parts are just a single sheet of steel. Those single sheet areas are where I ended up applying the HLiner. Made for a lot of pattern-making with cardboard, but I'm satisfied with the fit.

463344
 
#5,059 ·
Would you not want the same angle piece on the rear so the nut tightens down even?
 
#5,063 ·
I don't mean to mix up some of the posts I have a unrelated question, I am looking at replacing my side windows and MASAI mentions 50mm radius and 70mm radius
70mm radius bottom corners (for most post-2004/5 Defenders and Puma/TDCi Defenders), and also 50mm radius bottom corners (pre-2004/5 200/300Tdi and TD5 Defenders). I obviously don't want to order the wrong window. I did find the heritage certificate which did not give me any as to weather or not this was a utility van or station wagon ...please help
chris
 
#5,064 ·
I don't mean to mix up some of the posts I have a unrelated question, I am looking at replacing my side windows and MASAI mentions 50mm radius and 70mm radius
70mm radius bottom corners (for most post-2004/5 Defenders and Puma/TDCi Defenders), and also 50mm radius bottom corners (pre-2004/5 200/300Tdi and TD5 Defenders). I obviously don't want to order the wrong window. I did find the heritage certificate which did not give me any as to weather or not this was a utility van or station wagon ...please help
chris
You could just measure it
 
#5,070 · (Edited)
This afternoon my dad and I started to replace my heater core with the Allisport one I got last week on my '97 D90... ended up doing rust repair or at least rust removal... had to cut out some red bubbly blistery green metal underneath the heater box behind the blower motor housing. Having difficulty trying to make a new section of metal and get it to fit. It's Sunday... supposed to just be checking the oil! Last night I replaced the muffler hanger with a stupid Ford Duratec version from Autozone after a week or so of wondering what is that awful noise... another shock absorber bushing turning into chewing gum?

Friday night I got my seat switch to finally work on my Classic by using some parts from a Mercedes seat switch and a Ebay switch actually from a RRC. Magnetic grabber tools are great!
 

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#5,071 · (Edited)
Finito! Had to make some quality repairs to some of the wiring loom due to some light chafing from the grinder or wire wheel. Flux, solder and marine grade heat shrink tubing were used, in some cases where it was mostly insulation rubbed off and where there was a substantial amount of wire remaining I was able to remove the female pin from the block connector and slip heat shrink over without having to cut and re-solder the wire. And why hasn't anyone made the lower heater box bracket with nuts welded on for the through-bulkhead bolts? Next time I'm just buying a whole new heater box and transferring over my allisport matrix and brackets. And the alternator on my RRC just went kaputt! o_O
 

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