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What have you done to your Defender today.

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768K views 6K replies 536 participants last post by  SadKingBilly 
#1 ·
Well this Thread is a very popular thread on a couple other forums that I frequent. So, I thought I'd give it a go on here too..

I after a little Blasphemous session got my new windscreen and seal installed.

 
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#4,900 ·
446409


Saw a taken today picture of the 1994 300Tdi truck we have not seen in 3 years, as it was aging at RiverMike’s place in NL. It had a quick trip to Foley’s for rear cross, outrigger and bulkhead floor, cam belt, rear seats and belts to avoid duty, and a few other odds and ends. Got a “proof of life” photo from the gent who picked it up this AM from port in Baltimore.

Thanks to the forum members who helped out in getting it here.

I was going to have it delivered, but shipping is a cluster right now. Monday I will hop in the Super Duty and go corona cross-country to pick up.

Same truck a few years ago:
446410


446411
 
#4,905 ·
Replaced serpentine pulley tensioner yesterday. This tensioner looked a little different than my old one but seemed to fit just fine. Hopefully won't start chirping next time I spray off the engine bay.
Today replaced the two rear speakers with these Quinn Acoustics 6.5" speakers seen here Quinn Acoustics QE602 6.5 Inch Coaxial Speaker Pair
They sound pretty good and I like how the original speaker grills fit.
 

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#4,908 ·
I did not install them but as I took them out they install very straight forward. No mods what so ever to the body. Just screwed the exmoor seat frames into the mounting holes then seats to frame. All three reclined individually and are modular. Could use two with a cubby in the middle or all three. Each seat has its own frame.

My new seat base was one piece and required some mods to the base so it cleared the wheel wells. Nothing major just a lot of figuring out with no instructions outside of the sales reps 'should fit right in no issues' directions which delayed me as I assumed it should just fit. Took time with me fighting it in and out of the truck with great hesitation of cutting into it just to find out I screwed it up.. If I had to do it again it would take half the time.

After a few hours I looked at the exmoors sitting there and thought ...what the f*** am I doing this for. Those were so easy!
 
#4,909 ·
Thanks. I am looking to do the 2 seats and a cubby in the middle for the lads. Better than the originals low backs. Saw you were going to offer up the exmoors. What are you thinking for 2 front and left and right middle, if you would split them.
 
#4,912 ·
I'll jump in. I got all my brake lines done front to back with a new MC, booster, and proportioning valve thanks to help from Napalm and Roadworn. Then I got some 2x2 aluminum and scraps around my garage and built a bike rack. It will fit the Defender when it's done so I figured it counts. Just waiting for the straps for the rear wheels.

Sean
 

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#4,914 ·
New bumper, new KBX grill (headlight surrounds will go on when I do the LED light upgrade), and OEM A-bar...will have to decide what lights I will mount on the bar..
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#4,921 ·
Keep in mind if you mount the headlight bumper surrounds for that soft bumper you will need to drill threadserts into your fenders on each side to hold the surrounds in place. This is from hand experience of having one of those bumpers on my 94. If I am reading your post wrong about what surrounds you are running, then never mind.
 
#4,915 ·
Front and back power windows

Power door locks (previously done but updated switch)

New ome front shocks and steering dampner.

Starting to install a wireless charging pad in the center console!

Next need to clean up the wiring and install this new fuse box relay in the center console!

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#4,916 ·
I am just about to do do the Power Windows & Power Locks using all OEM...did you run the PW through a relay or just like factory....and if you used the OEM lock actuators do they work similar to the windows by reversing polarity..? BTW what relay / fuse block is that?



Front and back power windows

Power door locks (previously done but updated switch)

New ome front shocks and steering dampner.

Starting to install a wireless charging pad in the center console!

Next need to clean up the wiring and install this new fuse box relay in the center console!




View attachment 447630
 
#4,917 ·
The lock actuators were aftermarket. I'm my other truck (h1 Hummer) I had better luck with aftermarket actuators than one so stuck to that plan. Ran pw through a relay as I have the switches in non oem locations and switch design needed to match my other switches. Plus I'm putting all custom electrical running to a central fuse and relay block so it's easier to manage from original equipment and keeps it completely isolated. The next owner won't end up with a puzzle to deal with.

Block was.from Amazon from concourse specialties. Expensive ( $150) but it's well built and quality components from what I can tell and has mount brackets that will fit in my ashcroft center console below the tray insert. I had built a panel on my own but this looks cleaner.
 
#4,920 ·
Well the thread starts “what have you done to your defender today“ well I received new calipers From Rovers North today, is there any reason why my right front caliper (pli696) is so much larger than left caliper (pli697). It’s about 9pm I just opened the box and saw the 2 calipers And rovers north is closed just thought I would ask
chris
 
#4,923 ·
Well the thread starts “what have you done to your defender today“ well I received new calipers From Rovers North today, is there any reason why my right front caliper (pli696) is so much larger than left caliper (pli697). It’s about 9pm I just opened the box and saw the 2 calipers And rovers north is closed just thought I would ask
chris
They should be the same / mirror images of one another . Something is up
 
#4,922 ·
Ditched the old speedometer cable and old speedometer for a VDO Vision Speedometer and transducer. Still need to refine the pulse rate, but off to a good start and everything went ok. Can’t say enough about the guys over at North Hollywood Speedometer...very helpful and friendly.

Also swapped out the fuel gauge with a VDO to match the other gauges.
 
#4,925 ·
Replac(ing) the clutch master cylinder in my 110.

7am : Spirits high, coffee hot, temp just 83F and I'm up before work to replace the Clutch Master which has been put off too long and has drawn ire from my wife when having to roll start the truck in gear to get home at times when I forgot to add fluid.
Shes a RHD, no rust at all on the bulkhead and I watched plenty of you tube, what could go wrong.

8:30am: Fluid drained in a bucket, none on me, all bulkhead bolts out, nothing bleeding, flying high, job going well. 85F and climbing
8:31am: realize I forgot to disconnect clutch hydraulic line so re-bolt two bolts to hold her still
8:45am: realizing its frozen went for the liquid wrench penetration fluid, besides, have to log into work soon and its already 88F and sun is peering over the shade of the tree.
Won't take long when I return, spirit slightly bent but I'm sure to get to the bottom of this repair soon.
11:00am, no movement of the line from the master, starting to worry, more liquid wrench, temp outside over 95F, like working on the moon I can only take 8-10 min shifts before retreating to my covid workstation in the kitchen.
3pm, create a meeting in outlook to step away for 30min and re-asses the situation in the 98F heat. Ironically determine I need more heat.
5pm, done with work, borrow the wife's kitchen torch (full benzomatic) and proceed to catch what is some kind of sound proofing on the bulkhead on fire as well as melt the crap out of the gasket for the bulkhead. Now you know why we Americans call it a firewall... spirit of adventure and happiness working on my defender literally goes up in flames, no damage to speedo cable or bonnet cable.
5:15pm, fashion a heat shield out of a lawnmower part and really heat it up. Over 98F outside, not sure why fixture is requiring propane to get it any hotter to turn
5:17pm fixture turns while spinning the $120 clutch master to slave line into a twisty straw.
5:20pm realize Rover's North needs a week before they can ship the part and this process will not start until... tomorrow. Depressed and turning to

Making a drink, will wait to tell the wife its not moving for at least another week.



449104
 
#4,928 ·
Replac(ing) the clutch master cylinder in my 110.

7am : Spirits high, coffee hot, temp just 83F and I'm up before work to replace the Clutch Master which has been put off too long and has drawn ire from my wife when having to roll start the truck in gear to get home at times when I forgot to add fluid.
Shes a RHD, no rust at all on the bulkhead and I watched plenty of you tube, what could go wrong.

8:30am: Fluid drained in a bucket, none on me, all bulkhead bolts out, nothing bleeding, flying high, job going well. 85F and climbing
8:31am: realize I forgot to disconnect clutch hydraulic line so re-bolt two bolts to hold her still
8:45am: realizing its frozen went for the liquid wrench penetration fluid, besides, have to log into work soon and its already 88F and sun is peering over the shade of the tree.
Won't take long when I return, spirit slightly bent but I'm sure to get to the bottom of this repair soon.
11:00am, no movement of the line from the master, starting to worry, more liquid wrench, temp outside over 95F, like working on the moon I can only take 8-10 min shifts before retreating to my covid workstation in the kitchen.
3pm, create a meeting in outlook to step away for 30min and re-asses the situation in the 98F heat. Ironically determine I need more heat.
5pm, done with work, borrow the wife's kitchen torch (full benzomatic) and proceed to catch what is some kind of sound proofing on the bulkhead on fire as well as melt the crap out of the gasket for the bulkhead. Now you know why we Americans call it a firewall... spirit of adventure and happiness working on my defender literally goes up in flames, no damage to speedo cable or bonnet cable.
5:15pm, fashion a heat shield out of a lawnmower part and really heat it up. Over 98F outside, not sure why fixture is requiring propane to get it any hotter to turn
5:17pm fixture turns while spinning the $120 clutch master to slave line into a twisty straw.
5:20pm realize Rover's North needs a week before they can ship the part and this process will not start until... tomorrow. Depressed and turning to

Making a drink, will wait to tell the wife its not moving for at least another week.



View attachment 449104
Just make a new hard line will take all of 30min with a $15 flaring tool from harbor freight.

Use new tube nuts from Any autoparts store , buy a complete line and just take them from that .
 
#4,935 · (Edited)
Not just today but since the lockdown:
  • new fuel injectors
  • new distributor and relocation for the amp
  • new fuel pump
  • new rear Tom Woods DC shaft
  • Garrison Outfitter window channel kit
  • Stainless studs for the window tops
And honestly out of all that stuff the Garrison kit made the biggest impact. That window rattle was driving me batshit.

Finally running good again!
 
#4,936 ·
Not just today but since the lockdown:
  • new fuel injectors
  • new distributor and relocation for the amp
  • new fuel pump
  • new rear Tom Woods DC shaft
  • Garrison Outfitter window channel kit
  • Stainless studs for the window tops
And honestly out of all that stuff the Garrison kit made the biggest impact. That window rattle was driving me batshit.

Finally running good again!
Nice. I’ve had the Garrison kit for two years now. One of these days I’ll get to it.
 
#4,942 ·
My OCD has kicked in and I’m troubled by this photo. The Hula girl is on the left side of the finger pull thereby leaving the right side empty and wanting.

A couple of ideas spring to mind:

Affix another Hula girl on the right side of the finger pull, being careful to choose the right figurine, something that might complement the ukulele maybe?

Or, construct a plinth and replace it with the ashtray, giving a focused and balanced view of the single Hula girl. Be careful though, in the build of the plinth, it should not call attention to itself with regards to material used or shape, may I suggest a truncated pyramid using discreetly textured black ABS?

Good luck!
 
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