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What have you done to your Defender today.

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768K views 6K replies 536 participants last post by  SadKingBilly 
#1 ·
Well this Thread is a very popular thread on a couple other forums that I frequent. So, I thought I'd give it a go on here too..

I after a little Blasphemous session got my new windscreen and seal installed.

 
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#4,826 ·
New tires

Installed new 235/85R16 BFG KO2.

When taking off the old tires, we found they had Tryon Multibands that act basically like beadlockers, but from the inside of the tire instead of the traditional lockers. The Tyron website targets RV owners so it is interesting the 110 had them.
I didn't re-mount the new tires with the multibands. I hate to see them go to waste. Is there a market for them?
 

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#4,827 ·
Replaced ignition switch. Removed bonnet and tailgate, taped everything off for a color change. Sanded all panels, grinded away loose rust on bonnet and tailgate, replace missing rivets and applied rust converter to whatever rust remained. Self etch primer any bare aluminum. Taping off the sd cage is the most annoying part. Hopefully ready for sealer tomorrow. Will upload some pictures later.
 
#4,828 ·
440937
440935

Got my Chinese intercooler With 90mm core today. Seems well made, time will tell. Still haven’t ordered VNT turbo yet. Upgrade plans currently still on hold for 110 and 90. After 4 months of ineffective rehab on my broken arm, I had surgery today on both my wrist and elbow. Seems forever since I’ve wrenched and longer still... Result of a careless driver...thanks for paying attention you Ass. She even tried to blame me until the cops set her straight (she got some nasty tickets).
(stock intercooler photo. Took mine out, found my phone, saw a squirrel and packed it up without taking a pic!)
 
#4,840 ·
So sorry to hear about this. I myself have permanent injuries from 14 months ago from a tow-truck driver that was too busy looking at her phone to watch the road in front of her. It's amazing the cops don't care about this: they initially said they'd cite her, but then dropped it because it was too much trouble, until I pushed the issue. If someone causes life-long injuries to someone else, they should at least get dinged on their driving record for it.
 
#4,829 ·
Finally got the 130 back together..I needed to change the rear rotors so I decided since everything had to come off I would replace the bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, rear brake lines, brake fluid flush and noticed the left rear had some drive play, so I changed the half shaft and drive flange...while pretty mechanical I was a bit worried about doing the bearings, it really was a pretty straight forward project!...btw harbor freights bearing seat tool had the perfect size in the kit for the $25...
 
#4,830 ·
Doing a CV joint reseal on my 110 day 2 and pissed off my mechanic even more by having ordered the wrong rotors and finding out my original front rotors were too worn to be turned, new rotors supplied at 10:30 this morning. Thought I had all the parts together and lined up but apparently 110 front rotors are non-vented; no "upgrading" to vented possible. Do not trust eBay part compatibility selector! Day 1 was spent trying to find correct stub axle seals which took hours of calling everyone I knew of within a day or two shipping time of Dallas which resulted in the typical story of that has to be ordered from the United Kingdom which takes a week or rather its too late on the east coast and on the west coast; that's out of stock and has to be ordered. Originally ordered a CV joint reseal kit which was also apparently wrong; STC3321 which included stub axle seals that were of incorrect size. Kicking myself for not having just ordered this: CV Joint / Swivel Ball Reseal Kit For Land Rover Defender 110 (Part # 9357 ) - Land Rover swivel balls & parts from Atlantic British a week in advance.
Something I actually did today was epoxy my new Bearmach ignition switches because they don't seem to last. Typical issue of the plastic back plate coming loose. Seems Bearmach or Lucas (not sure if there's a difference of one being better) could've done a better job of crimping the metal body of the switch to the plastic backplate. Would also be better if the plastic backplate were made of bakelite so certain riveted contacts never melt the plastic they use now.
 

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#4,831 ·
You really need to re-think who you order from.
 
#4,834 · (Edited)
I finally got my bonnet installed after hammering it out for clearance. I didn’t want to spend the coin for a new one so I figured a little time would tell if I could manage this or just scrap it and pony up. I’m pretty pleased with how it came out. I was able to use the original five bar plate with a little massaging as well. Topped it off with some LR3 hood struts to hold it open.
 
#4,837 ·
I finally got my bonnet installed after hammering it out for clearance. I didn’t want to spend the coin for a new one so I figured a little time would tell if I could manage this or just scrap it and pony up. I’m pretty pleased with how it came out. I was able to use the original five bar plate with a little massaging as well. Topped it off with some LR3 hood struts to hold it open.
Nice job on the struts! - definitely going to copy that
 
#4,841 ·
Sweet mod on the hood struts, stock LR3 mounts on each end? More pics?


I finally got my bonnet installed after hammering it out for clearance. I didn’t want to spend the coin for a new one so I figured a little time would tell if I could manage this or just scrap it and pony up. I’m pretty pleased with how it came out. I was able to use the original five bar plate with a little massaging as well. Topped it off with some LR3 hood struts to hold it open.
 
#4,838 ·
Checked lots of items off of the to-do list this weekend thanks to the help of JehovahNissi77. We adjusted the hand brake, completed an oil change, adjusted the valves, replaced the diesel filter (actually able to source this locally at Advance Auto Parts - PN: 86166) & changed the fluid in the transfer case.

Wow, with the valves properly adjusted the 2.5 is pulling like a boat anchor!

Thanks for the help JehovahNissi77!!!
 
#4,839 ·
Checked lots of items off of the to-do list this weekend thanks to the help of JehovahNissi77. We adjusted the hand brake, completed an oil change, adjusted the valves, replaced the diesel filter (actually able to source this locally at Advance Auto Parts - PN: 86166) & changed the fluid in the transfer case.

Wow, with the valves properly adjusted the 2.5 is pulling like a boat anchor!

Thanks for the help JehovahNissi77!!!
I really appreciated your (Land Rover Daddy) help fitting the boost gauge this weekend and helping install the carpet and seat belts on your last visit. Its like a whole new vehicle. I feel like I can drive it anywhere with the family...after I fix the doors.;)
 
#4,842 ·
Removing soft top windows that appear to have been in place for a decade or more. Had to do it the tedious way as the plastic sleeves on the bolts had the bolts jammed in the door.

I should have taken the picture before I removed all the dust and dirt from the door sill. Luckily though, the paint is in good shape and didn’t chip when I removed them.

Even the $200k Defender on BAT last week had chipped paint on the door sill...I guess I’m sitting pretty 😆
 

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#4,844 · (Edited)
A common issue is that the plastic sleeves (that are inside the door sill) that go around the window bolts expand and make it difficult/impossible to pull the window up and out once you get the nuts removed.

Therefore, you need to unscrew the bolts from the window frame, then get the bolts low enough in the door sill (or all the way out) that they no longer interfere/touch the window frame.

Once you get the bolts unscrewed from the window frame, then manually move the bolts lower in the door sill (wrench on top of nut, hammer on wrench gently to move the bolt down), or just get the bolts out completely. You’ll need the bolts out anyway to sand down the plastic sleeves to make them fit back in the door sill.

At this point the window might still feel stuck if the seal on the bottom of the window is adhered to the door sill. GENTLY rock the window back and forth to free it up, or get something skinny and soft between the seal and the door sill.

There are old some threads on here about how to do it if my explanation sucks. Here’s a screen shot from one that explains it pretty well.

Also attached a pic of the window bolt (and Rover oil spot for effect), so you can visualize what’s going on inside the door sill with the plastic sleeve.
 

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#4,845 ·
A common issue is that the plastic sleeves (that are inside the door sill) that go around the window bolts expand and make difficult/impossible to pull the window up and out once you get the nuts removed.

Therefore, you need to unscrew the bolts from the window frame, then get the bolts low enough in the door sill (or all the way out) that they no longer interfere/touch the window frame.

Once you get the bolts unscrewed from the window frame, then manually move the bolts lower in the door sill (wrench on top of nut, hammer on wrench gently to move the bolt down), or just get the bolts out completely. You’ll need the bolts out anyway to sand down the plastic sleeves to make them fit back in the door sill.

At this point the window might still feel stuck if the seal on the bottom of the window is adhered to the door sill. GENTLY rock the window back and forth to free it up, or get something skinny and soft between the seal and the door sill.

There are old some threads on here about how to do it if my explanation sucks. Here’s a screen shot from one that explains it pretty well.

Also attached a pic of the window bolt (and Rover oil spot for effect), so you can visualize what’s going on inside the door sill with the plastic sleeve.
I had to literally whittle down with a blade the outer circumference of the new plastic sleeves from Rovers North in order to get the door top back into place. I used pipe dope to hold the sleeves on the bolt so they don't slip off prior to positioning the door top and inserting it.
 
#4,855 ·
Finally got around to doing the boost ring. Did the boost pin last fall.

Then tackled the new off-road monkey hinges. Got the 2 front doors done (mostly) before it rained. Saving the back doors for a sunnier afternoon.


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Did the boost ring make any difference? I changed the pin a few years ago and have been sitting on the ring ever since.
 
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#4,861 ·
444314


got it running last night after major elective surgery... rebuilt 3.9, HP22, 14Cux... thanks to Brewie & LRC. My old ZA motor was donated to another local project, so it lives on as well (that one is almost done too)

Plan is to get the rest done to make her drive on Sat and bring it home to button up, do the wiring cleanup, and road test, then build a custom center console, & install A/C. The Auto was my wife's request, hopefully I can get her out at some events soon. Definitely not a glamor shot... LOL but the end of the project is in sight and it has been a great learning experience.
 
#4,862 ·
Been bouncing between sills and posts, bulkhead and forming new side panels. Worked on the side panels today since my wife’s van was out of the rain in the garage for a new windshield
 

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