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What have you done to your Defender today.

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768K views 6K replies 536 participants last post by  SadKingBilly 
#1 ·
Well this Thread is a very popular thread on a couple other forums that I frequent. So, I thought I'd give it a go on here too..

I after a little Blasphemous session got my new windscreen and seal installed.

 
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#4,368 ·
Trying to get to DD status.

I've been hoarding parts since the vehicle became in op in June for what I hoped was just a clutch, but turned out to be the tranny. When the R380 stumpy showed up it was time to start the installs.


-New DownPipe(RN)
-Heavy Duty clutch(Rova Farm)
-New Front Driveshaft(RovaFarm)
-Installed transfer case input gear & Bearings while LT77 was separated from transfer case(Ashcroft)
-R380 Stumpy Install(Ashcroft)
-Alloy Shift Knobs(RN):)

Installed over Labor Day weekend.

Not road ready yet. I took it for a drive and discovered coolant was leaking from what appears to be the heater core.

I now have a rumble/vibrations at overrun at around 50mph, with no gas or brake input, seems to be coming from the rear. Pulled the rear drive shaft, locked the diff and drove around and it seemed to go away. I'm guessing its the drive shaft but couldn't find any play in the U-JOINTS. The rear Pinion is also leaking like a sieve so hoping its not the diff.

Next on the list:
New front brake calipers, braided lines and rotors, just waiting for pads.

Heater core is now leaking(bypassed), rear drive shaft, a new fuel tank or some JB Weld until I get a new fuel tank. :whistling:
 

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#4,369 ·
Attempted to replace the tail pipe that fell off last Sunday. Had to cut the bolts on the flange. I can't get the rest of the bolts out of the muffler side of the joint. I'm thinking I should just replace the muffler too. It's original and still in ok shape though. Thoughts on getting the rest of the bolt out?
 
#4,378 ·
Replaced the old, banged up and busted center seat box plate with a new piece of sheet metal. Added NOICO insulation & stainless steel hardware. Blocks a lot more noise and no more hot air venting up (at least from that location). Then installed new lower cubby lock-box and mounted the cubby on top.

Also riveted my rear door sill plate into place. First time I haven't been able to see daylight out the rear since I've owned the truck. Works great, easy project.

Spent another hour with a grab bag of rubber/silicon stoppers, plugs, and silicon caulk sealing up various air/water gaps around the footbox.
 

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#4,397 ·
Hey, on the riveted rear door sill plate: I'm putting mine in too and was debating between following the original installation (self-tapping screws) or riveting it in place instead. How's riveting holding up so far for you?
 
#4,381 ·
#4,380 ·
Removed old exhaust and manifold today, wire-brushed the manifold down to bare metal and will be repainting it with high temp paint.

Started to piece out the new exhaust set up and noticed that the Rimmer Brothers exhaust fitting kit had maybe 1/8th of the necessary hardware so made an inventory of what was missing and bought those bits.

New exhaust is all ready to go in now...another day :whistling:
 
#4,387 ·
Interesting. Could you hear a rattle?

This page says they are not an interference fit (and come out easily if heated) but it doesn't say what's supposed to hold them in.

Rover 14CUX Hot Wire Mass Flow EFI: Service and Troubleshooting

If yours don't push in easily, then it sounds like you just need to clean them up, put the whole assembly in the oven for a bit, and then push them in.
 
#4,388 ·
Thanks. No, I could not hear a rattle.
I just knew I needed to replace my valve cover gaskets because I was getting a pretty sizeable spot on my driveway after every drive. I had my oil changed recently at Take5 (they even used Rotella as per my request!:)) they spilled some oil on my engine and rinsed it off. Seems by now any oil would have all burned off if there was any left. Knowing my gaskets were at least seven years old, I bought a set of new valve cover gaskets off ebay for $20 + free expedited shipping. I could see once I took off my old gaskets they were hardened and my new gaskets had plenty of flexibility. Someone should try making some out of silicon!
I used copper coat to stick the gasket to the valve covers. I probably should have let it set longer though before mating the gasket to the valve cover; once I inverted the valve cover the gasket had a hard time staying on.
Anyways, I'll try and get those trumpets tapped back in place tomorrow morning and try to bolt it all back together. Too damn hot here in Dallas to be driving it anyways; not like that's stopped me before!
 
#4,390 ·
Small projects

1) Installed sliding rear window 'locks'

2) Replaced fuel gauge with VDO 301105 Vision

3) Tach VDO 333965

4) Wired MadMan EMS2 to coolant temp sender. More sensors to add later. Anyone know the recommended operating temp range for a 300Tdi?
 

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#4,393 ·
Well after seeing the temp gauge hitting 220+ ob a steep forest road in 85F I carefully got home, raised the hood and saw the hood stand when closed rested on and then pulled apart the y- connector from the rad to the expansion tank....#designflaw? Consequently the 300tdi is covered in coolant (as is the post office car park...oops) and I had to wrestle with some longer 1/4" rubber hose to get connected...Tomorrow I shall refill her system (coolant) tonight I shall refill mine (beer)...oh and LED indicator lights now work occasionally although hazards have no problem... unfortunately electrics are my weak point!
 
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