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  #1  
Old August 21st, 2005, 09:46 PM
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What do you tow with?

You guys that tow your 90, what combination trailer and tow vehicle do you use? I'm evaluating buying a trailer versus driving my 90 5 or more hours at a whack to get to Tellico or MAR or whatever.

I have a 2002 Ford Powerstroke Diesel crew cab (51k miles ) with short box and lift to do the towing. I'm wondering what size and type of trailer will be adequate for towing the D90 on the highway and easy enough to handle parking it here at the house (and not eat up my tow rig transmission).

I'd appreciate some knowledge from you good folks! Thanks!
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  #2  
Old August 22nd, 2005, 10:09 AM
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I picked up a 16' steel tandem axle (7000 lb gvwr) off of ebay a few months back. It's got a 2' dovetail which is very nice. It's plenty long enough. I towed my D on it 6 hrs to Paragon/Rausch back in May. It was great. I searched for a long time before I found the right deal. If I had money to burn I would have gotten a Featherlite aluminum. You could fit a D90 on a 14' but it would be close. I would recommend a 16' with a minimum gvwr of 7000 lbs and brakes on both axles. Inflate tire pressure to just below max. My tow vehicle is a 2004 Dodge Ram with a Cummins 600. I still got 15 mpg towing 7000lb and running the a/c.
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  #3  
Old August 22nd, 2005, 11:55 AM
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Dave Souza
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Ron that truck should tow just about anything you need. I use a Dodge 2500 with a Hemi, and I pull the 90 on an 18' 7000 gvw steel trailer. It's way too long, with no dovetail, but even so it's no big deal. A little practice and you can put that trailer wherever you want. I agree with Phil though, try to find a nice 16' with a dovetail and good brakes. Aluminum is sweet, but expensive. I also occasionally drop a 2000 lb. slide-in camper in the bed, then tow the D90 to Rausch or VT (6+ hrs). Your diesel will be fine.
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  #4  
Old August 22nd, 2005, 12:40 PM
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I tow a 16ft trailer with my experdition.On the way to the National Rally the first leg of the journy i drove 20hrs only stopping for gas,no problem at all.
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  #5  
Old August 22nd, 2005, 04:02 PM
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Kevin Collins
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I have a 16' utility trailer that has been used quite frequently for many members of the HLRC for rescue trips. I have pulled the 90 on it with both the '95 RR SWB and the '01 Discovery (I know...stupid...)

Much better once we upgraded to a F250 Powerstroke. No problems towing the Discovery from Houston to SLC and back and all points in between. Unfortunately no more F250 so the 4.6 is the main tow vehicle now. We had to use it to tow a broken HLRC member ('04 Discovery) back from east TX (about 200 miles). Not too bad.
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  #6  
Old August 22nd, 2005, 05:51 PM
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Randy Black
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I also use a 16' tandem axle behind a Dodge Cummins. It sure has come in handy whenever I or others break on the trail.

Be sure it has good tires rated for what you haul. And as the previous posts said, trailer brakes.
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Old August 22nd, 2005, 07:13 PM
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2000 Toyota Landcruiser if I needed to.
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  #8  
Old August 25th, 2005, 09:46 PM
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OK, going with a steel 6' x 16' utility trailer with dual ramps, twin 3500# axles, twin brakes etc etc.

How should I strap this 90 down to the deck? I have the rear lashing eyes still on the truck, but none in the front. I have the ARB front bumper setup. Should I heavy ratchet strap the axles, or chain the front and ratchet the back? Can I chain the front recovery loops on the ARB and then ratchet strap the rear axles? What say you?
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  #9  
Old August 25th, 2005, 09:52 PM
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http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5444
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  #10  
Old August 26th, 2005, 12:04 AM
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Dave Souza
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I missed that first thread, but I second what Dave had to say... always to the axles. Chains are clearly strong enough as Barry says, but the shock loads from a bouncing 90 will cause something to give. I've seen the factory rear tie downs on a Range Rover break from using chains, the shock loads are that bad. Even cranking the vehicle down as much as possible, if you go to a suspended point (frame, recovery point, etc) there's always more give in the suspension, and it will bounce going over bumps, causing massive shocking.

The beauty of using the axles is that the truck suspends itself, which makes it very smooth going down the road. It's not the weight of the truck that causes issues while trailering, it's the shock. With an axle tied down there's no shock at all on any of the components used to hold the vehicle to the trailer, (tie down points on the truck and the trailer, the straps or chains used), just a steady pull.

I use standard DOT approved 2.5 or 3" nylon rachet tie downs with axle straps, but I don't discourage using chains, as long as you attach them to the axles. I usually cross the front straps to add more lateral support, but it's probably not necessary. I've done several long distance tows with this setup (800+ miles), a couple times through NYC on I-95. If the truck doesn't move on the trailer on that interstate, it's not moving ever.

You should re-check your straps after the first 50 miles or so, because they will settle and stretch. And I usually give mine a good checking each time I fill up for gas.
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  #11  
Old August 26th, 2005, 12:27 AM
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Wow guys,

Put a little thought into it didn't you? 10,000LB straps at Home Depot for $12 each. Strap the truck down to the axles and drive off. Your not launching a shuttle here. Oh, and brakes on one axle work just fine.
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  #12  
Old August 26th, 2005, 07:36 AM
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Thanks guys. I missed that first thread on towing, good info.
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  #13  
Old August 26th, 2005, 08:35 AM
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Ron,

Call me if you get a chance... As for Straps, Northern tools has a set of 10K straps with chain and hooks on the ends. They are about $25.00 each, but you don't have to worry about the strap fraying or having to protect them from the sharp corners on the trailer or truck. As for the tie down points, when I had the ARB bumper on my truck, I put the D-rings on and strapped them right to left and left to right. I did the same thing in the back, that seemed to brace the truck and keep enough strap available so that you can get them tight.

Scott Wold
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  #14  
Old August 26th, 2005, 09:09 AM
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I tow my 90 from Georgia out west twice a year. I pull with a 6.0 F250 and learned my lesson the hard way on trailers. Originally I bought a steel car hauler with 2 3500# axles(brakes on one), and bias ply tires. It was basically the least expensive new trailer I could find. One 4K mile trip, no problems but coming home from Moab last year I had 3 blowouts(in BFE Kansas on a Sunday) and toasted a wheel bearing on one axle. The 3500# axles are rated to carry a defender but at speed hitting bridge decks, or any significant dip in the road, really loads them up.

I ended up with a 16ft dual axled, dual braked trailer with two spare tire mounts and had them put radial tires on it. Several trips so far and no problems thank goodness.

One axle brake is probably fine if you have a HD tow vehicle and just pull through flat areas. I can tell you from experience there is a big difference for not that much additional cost.

I'd also be leary of using a chain and hooking to one side of the trailer going over the axle and hooking to the other side of the trialer(creating a giant V) as I think chains can bend axle tubes this way. My .01


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  #15  
Old August 26th, 2005, 12:59 PM
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The Straps that I use are 3" yellow straps (10K Ratchet straps from Northern tools) with a short section of chain on each end. I strap the truck from the D-ring on the right side of the brush bar to the left front side of the trailer and vise versa. As for the back, I do the same in the back, connecting to either side of the gas tank skidplate. I would not wrap a chain around the axel either, since you could damage brakelines, ARB air tubes or breather tubes.

Scott
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  #16  
Old August 26th, 2005, 01:37 PM
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I found a great deal on a 14' x 6' that is stout. Price is right with dual axle brakes, etc. etc... Someone said I could fit the 90 on there but it would be close. Would a 14 footer be acceptable to anyone?

EDIT - Forget that, I went for the 6.5' x 16' twin axle dual brake yada yada yada for about $300 more than the similarly equipped 14' trailer... Thanks anyway, Miller Time approaches.

Before that though, those of you who tow 1997 90's, you strap her down on the deck, transmission in Park and the emergency brake set right? Nothing harmful to the Parked drivetrain as long as the truck is properly strapped down right?
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  #17  
Old August 26th, 2005, 04:16 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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park with the ebrake on is the way I do it Ron.

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  #18  
Old August 26th, 2005, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronward
Before that though, those of you who tow 1997 90's, you strap her down on the deck, transmission in Park and the emergency brake set right? Nothing harmful to the Parked drivetrain as long as the truck is properly strapped down right?
Just to clarify, you want to be in neutral while you are tightening down the straps. Once you are fully tight, then put it in park and set the e brake.
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  #19  
Old August 26th, 2005, 05:22 PM
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Jason Herring
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These days I tow with my D90 I use it to flat-tow my girlfriend's Suzuki Samurai when we go offroad/camping. Funny thing, it seems to get the exact same mileage towing or not towing.

Is it because of the short wheelbase that the D90 doesn't have a very high towing capacity?
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  #20  
Old August 27th, 2005, 11:11 AM
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I tow a 31' titan gooseneck with a 2001 dodge cummins 6sp. But it is rare I put a rover on it. I try to keep them running
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