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  #21  
Old January 30th, 2007, 08:21 AM
andyrad
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Andy Radlgruber
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Try looking fo a used one. A lot of people buy stuff on an impulse and hardly ever use it if at all anymore. They may dump a $2000 machine for $1000 just to make the wife happy.
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  #22  
Old February 8th, 2007, 03:32 PM
jaguiler
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John A
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I use the Lincoln 135 as well - when pluged into a regular 120v 20 amp house line - everything works great. I actually ran mine through an extension cable (55 feet) to weld outside with some fluxcore (while welding galvinized steel) - does the job right - the wleds pentrate beautifully as well.... depending on what you are welding - it is mostly up to your skill that makes the big difference.

You can find the LIncoln 135 or the HD version of it on ebay or craigslist - I got mine from ebay - forgot the price - but it was a great deal.
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  #23  
Old July 19th, 2009, 01:31 PM
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Jeff
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Do you guys think this is a good deal?

http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/1258030284.html
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  #24  
Old July 19th, 2009, 04:29 PM
madcowdungbeetle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger
Do you guys think this is a good deal?

http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/1258030284.html
It's not a bad deal by any means, but I've seen better deals.
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  #25  
Old July 19th, 2009, 05:11 PM
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Jeff
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Thanks for the info.

what price would that be a good deal at? Thanks!

I'm a total newbie but I need several things welded and by the time I farmed all that out, I'll probably have spent as much as buying one.

Also, what type of power source would that require?
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  #26  
Old July 20th, 2009, 11:30 AM
J.5
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Joe Zinter
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If you are using 110V, find a lincoln SP-135 Plus. This is (in my opinion) the *best* 110V welder. Its very similar to the newer model lincoln power mig 140C as far as specs, but i've used both and the sp-135 is of higher quality than the newer one. I would stay away from the 3200 or any other tapped voltage machine. When you get good you'll appreciate the continuous voltage control, especially when you need the just the right heat for corners or when welding different thickness together. The continuous voltage is also nice when using flux cored wire where the heat is much more critical.

If you want a 220V machine, I'd recommend the lincoln 175.

These are both excellent, robust, accurate, easy to use machines. I teach a small welding class once a year and we use a couple 175s for the MIG portion. I use the 135plus at home.

To comment on the question about sliders, bumpers, home welding, etc. You can get away with a MIG 110V machine for 1/8" (3/16" is pushing it, but will work if tweaked correctly). Yes, you can go thicker with flux cored wire, but it takes more practice, is more sensitive to position, weld angle, etc., and makes a bigger mess (splatter). Also, you should avoid extension cords when ever possible, or use a very thick cord (12 gauge). Extension cords are fine if welding thin stuff, which uses a small amount of current, but when trying to mig weld thicker stuff (1/8" or greater) with a 110V machine you need ever last amp and you will lose too much current in the cord, and it'll burn up the cord (trust me), throw a breaker, or just not get good weld penetration. Even with a thick cord, you can actually tell difference between being plugged directly into the wall or going through a 20ft 12g cord when welding thicker stuff.
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  #27  
Old July 20th, 2009, 11:55 AM
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I have a hobart handler 110v machine, a 145 I think (Hobart is made by miller) and it works fine for my needs.
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  #28  
Old July 20th, 2009, 02:03 PM
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Tom
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Miller, my first & only choice.
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  #29  
Old July 20th, 2009, 02:55 PM
ajh
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Andrew J. Hutton
1993 Defender 110 200TDI
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http://www.zena.net/ is also an option, I am strongly considering going this route provided I can find enough space to fit one, an AC pump OBA, and a ZF74 PS pump for winch/brakes. The 200TDI does have a lot of space around it so it should be interesting. I also just noticed they have a hydraulic drive version now, I suspect for a whole lot more money though.
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