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  #1  
Old February 21st, 2011, 08:20 PM
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Weird Temp Problem

In addition to an oil change, I replaced the alternator in my 94 ST on Friday and figured it was a good time to swap the belts as well, so I picked some up from the local parts store and threw them on.

Truck runs fine but I noticed when I was driving around on Saturday (everything from 75mph on highways to 5mph in the woods) that my truck was hovering around 200 +/- degrees. Before I swapped the alternator and belts, my truck would always run at about 190. FWIW, outside air temps here were around 50 on Saturday.

I have not checked the engine with an IR thermometer but am running a VDO temp gauge & sender

Any ideas what to check first?
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  #2  
Old February 22nd, 2011, 11:37 AM
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why did you change the alternator?
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 01:13 PM
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My old one died (stopped charging) so I got a replacement unit from Will Tillery.
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Old February 23rd, 2011, 12:00 PM
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Maybe your old one was not putting out the correct voltage, causing your gauge to read low. My truck overheats every time I turn on the headlights.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 12:31 PM
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Jeff,

For a data point - I also replaced my 110's temp guage with VDO from Summit. (removed the "unique 110 voltage stablizer" at the same time.)
It consistently reads 200 degrees, as well.

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  #6  
Old February 26th, 2011, 01:34 PM
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mine will jump a little bit when I turn on the headlights also. ditch that 195 for a 180 thermostat. It is possible you had a cooling bubble. What alternator did you use?
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Old February 27th, 2011, 07:47 AM
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I went with a rebuilt unit from Will Tillery. He actually sources them from a place called Action Alternator and Starter in Utah...great guys!

I may try a t-stat change and definitely plan to flush the coolant. I will be installing a new tach soon so plan to check the electrical connections (and voltage) at the gauge

Did changing the t-stat help you?
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Old February 28th, 2011, 08:44 AM
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I only changed the thermostat to get the truck to run cooler, 195-200 is a bit much imo. Ive also been using a RRC fan and clutch which really does a nice job. Its not a band aide Ive had my rad service and cooling system maintained. i think that stock fan was used with a NA 4 banger Defenders. Its interesting to me why Land Rover engineered the Defenders this way. I use a worn out fan clutch in the winter and a NAPA branded clutch in the summer time does really well. There was a thread on this a while back.
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Old February 28th, 2011, 11:46 AM
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Do you have a source/part number for the 180 thermostat? Everywhere I have looked lists a 191-195 for the 3.9L

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  #10  
Old February 28th, 2011, 01:17 PM
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I don't understand the desire to put in a lower temp thermostat. If everything is working properly the engine should be fine at those temperatures. A properly formulated coolant mix will prevent boiling over up to 265 degrees. (in theory anyway). I would be shutting the engine down way before that. If something is wrong causing an overheating condition it won't matter if you have a 50 degree thermostat in there, it is still going to overheat. The engine will run more efficiently at the slightly higher temp of a 190/195 'stat, and provide a bit more waste heat to the occupants in colder climates.
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Old February 28th, 2011, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I don't understand the desire to put in a lower temp thermostat. If everything is working properly the engine should be fine at those temperatures. A properly formulated coolant mix will prevent boiling over up to 265 degrees. (in theory anyway). I would be shutting the engine down way before that. If something is wrong causing an overheating condition it won't matter if you have a 50 degree thermostat in there, it is still going to overheat. The engine will run more efficiently at the slightly higher temp of a 190/195 'stat, and provide a bit more waste heat to the occupants in colder climates.
There is some merit to that comment. I just feel like all that Ive read on the interweb about these trucks running a little cooler shouldnt be an issue, I haven't noticed any change in economy or how they run. I also feel like if I have to work the truck hard I have a little room to work before it does get hot. Im a broken record on this, factory land rover temp gauges arent worth shit.
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Old February 28th, 2011, 06:44 PM
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Typically I do not get concerned with engine temps until they reach 220ish...today (air temp ~ 65) while driving my truck around town my engine temp got to 210 on my temp gauge and I happened to have my IR thermometer so I checked it and sure enough, got a reading of 211 with the IR pointed at the manifold just above the temp sender. Reading on the cylinder heads was about 225.

Based on this I guess I need to do a little more research here on troubleshooting. Just weird to me that my truck ran steady at 185-190 and only touched 200 when I was wheeling last summer in temps of 90+ but now 200 is my idle temp
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Old February 28th, 2011, 07:19 PM
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System voltage with the new alt.?
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Present:
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Old February 28th, 2011, 07:20 PM
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Internal voltage regulator on the alternator bad? Would that affect the power to the accessories, like temp gauge though?
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Old February 28th, 2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
System voltage with the new alt.?
14.2 under load (headlights, heater and radio) and about 14.5 without load
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Old February 28th, 2011, 08:31 PM
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I meant that the old alt was bad and was not putting out sufficient voltage for the gauge to read properly. Now that the alt is fully charging your gauge gives a better reading.

That said, it sounds like your gauge is now reading accurate.
If you want the truck to run cooler, check the clutch fan, use your IR thermometer to look for blockages in the radiator, look for kinked hoses or an air bubble in the cooling system. Is the grille blocked at all? Is the fan shroud in place and not cracked and broken? Is the rad set up to force all the air through the rad, or can some pass to the side or above or below it? I guess you could also try water wetter, I have not tried it myself.

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14.2 under load (headlights, heater and radio) and about 14.5 without load
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Old February 28th, 2011, 09:03 PM
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I would double check your main electrical connections. The actual temp sender is read off a negative polarity. So its not necessarily that you are running a stronger current to it from the new alternator, it could be your grounds are not 100% secure.

You can do a simple test and power the guage and then power a sending unit to make the needle move. then mess with the negative output to the guage and you will see it climb. So it could be a grounding issue more than an actual temp issue.
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Old February 28th, 2011, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
I would double check your main electrical connections. The actual temp sender is read off a negative polarity. So its not necessarily that you are running a stronger current to it from the new alternator, it could be your grounds are not 100% secure.

You can do a simple test and power the guage and then power a sending unit to make the needle move. then mess with the negative output to the guage and you will see it climb. So it could be a grounding issue more than an actual temp issue.
Based on the readings I got with the IR thermometer, I think that the gauge is reading correctly. Hopefully I will get some free time this coming weekend to check over the items others have listed (fan clutch, radiator clogs, etc...). Will probably also order a new t-stat and pick up some coolant to do a flush for good measure. Anyone know how much coolant the system takes? Also, any particular brand of coolant that anyone swears by?
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  #19  
Old March 1st, 2011, 07:08 AM
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I was able to get a thermostat at Napa, i had to drill a hole in the top of it.
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  #20  
Old March 1st, 2011, 07:54 AM
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Yes make better gound connections. Run a ground from the engine to the bulkhead in particular.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
I would double check your main electrical connections. The actual temp sender is read off a negative polarity. So its not necessarily that you are running a stronger current to it from the new alternator, it could be your grounds are not 100% secure.

You can do a simple test and power the guage and then power a sending unit to make the needle move. then mess with the negative output to the guage and you will see it climb. So it could be a grounding issue more than an actual temp issue.
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