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  #1  
Old October 16th, 2012, 08:07 AM
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Weird clutch slipping

During the last month or so, the clutch on my 300 TDi has slipped three times... in a really weird way. All three times I was in semi heavy traffic in the highway, and suddenly the traffic dispersed. As I accelerated, at about 50 MPH the engine would race but speed would not increase accordingly. Moderate uphill incline all three times. Going easier with the throttle restored things to normal.

The thing is, when I try to make the clutch slip, it bites perfectly OK. Start in very steep inclines at full power, no slip. Mash the throttle at any speed, no slip. Not even with the transfer in low gear. It seems to be a on-again off-again thing.

So I am starting to think maybe it is not the clutch itself. Could it be some oil in the plate? The dipstick thinks oil level is OK, but that's a very broad measure and a little oil can go a long way... And of course, the garage floor says the dipstick is optimistic at best- as always.

So, what's your take? Any help will be greatly appreciated!
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  #2  
Old October 16th, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Robert Courtney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santiago Montenegr View Post
During the last month or so, the clutch on my 300 TDi has slipped three times... in a really weird way. All three times I was in semi heavy traffic in the highway, and suddenly the traffic dispersed. As I accelerated, at about 50 MPH the engine would race but speed would not increase accordingly. Moderate uphill incline all three times. Going easier with the throttle restored things to normal.

The thing is, when I try to make the clutch slip, it bites perfectly OK. Start in very steep inclines at full power, no slip. Mash the throttle at any speed, no slip. Not even with the transfer in low gear. It seems to be a on-again off-again thing.

So I am starting to think maybe it is not the clutch itself. Could it be some oil in the plate? The dipstick thinks oil level is OK, but that's a very broad measure and a little oil can go a long way... And of course, the garage floor says the dipstick is optimistic at best- as always.

So, what's your take? Any help will be greatly appreciated!
I am having the exact same issue in my Series with a 200TDI. I beleive we feel it at that time because that is when HP comes in to play, versus torque. Dosen't explain why. My clutch disconnect is very close to top of pedal which leads me to believe that the pressure plate is not completley relaxed. I have no adjustment left at the pedal box so I tried shimming the slave out with a washer. Like you under heavy load, fully locked in an offroad situation there is absolutly no slip.
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  #3  
Old October 16th, 2012, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcourtney View Post
My clutch disconnect is very close to top of pedal which leads me to believe that the pressure plate is not completley relaxed.
Same here, and I was thinking about shimming the slave too...
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  #4  
Old October 16th, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Chris
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Since Hydralic clutches take up wear automatically, where does yours bite?
Do you have wading plugs in? Any oil drip when removed?
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  #5  
Old October 16th, 2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Check the pedal freeplay.

-Jeff
Checked OK

Quote:
Since Hydralic clutches take up wear automatically, where does yours bite?
Do you have wading plugs in? Any oil drip when removed?
Bites quite high, near the end of pedal travel.

The wading plug is in. I removed it, and to my amazement nothing came out
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Old October 16th, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Check the master cylinder threaded rod position. I just corrected the very same symptoms. Turns out my replacement master cylinder only had enough thread to use 1 thin nut and 1 lock nut. The previous master cylinder had 2 thin nuts. I had to remove the second thin nut to position the peddle correctly. Other wise it slipped on the highway or on a steep hill in 4th or 5th.
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  #7  
Old October 16th, 2012, 01:09 PM
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Hmmm, that sounds reasonable.
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  #8  
Old October 24th, 2012, 09:46 PM
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Robert Courtney
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P.S.

Why do they make the master cylinder so hard to get to? Oh yes it's a ROVER
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  #9  
Old October 25th, 2012, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcourtney View Post
P.S.

Why do they make the master cylinder so hard to get to? Oh yes it's a ROVER
The first time I changed it I just couldn't believe it. And the manual makes it sound like it is a breeze!
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  #10  
Old October 25th, 2012, 09:32 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcourtney View Post
P.S.

Why do they make the master cylinder so hard to get to? Oh yes it's a ROVER
It is a small nightmare indeed. First time I did it took me a full week end. Next time I will seriously think about taking out the fender first.
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  #11  
Old October 25th, 2012, 10:26 AM
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If coach FreePlay is okay and the threaded rod is okay it looks like to me you just need a new clutch disc. Your 1 is probably badly worn and when it heats up from sitting in traffic we're driving hard it starts to slip
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  #12  
Old October 25th, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcourtney View Post
P.S.

Why do they make the master cylinder so hard to get to? Oh yes it's a ROVER
More like it was designed to be RHD so when they made it LHD some compromises were made.
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  #13  
Old October 25th, 2012, 12:20 PM
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To help remove the master clutch and peddle assembly I removed a small rectangle shape from the toe box sheet metal. This will allow you to pull the box straight out with no twisting for the peddle pad. You also want to pull the screws from the brake peddle assembly so it will move to the side.
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