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  #21  
Old November 27th, 2015, 01:34 PM
kun109
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I just installed an Espar D2 in my 109 camper, and have zero regrets. Like Shane said, you might actually have to turn it off. All it takes is one cold night to make it all worth it.

Make sure you get the muffler, it sounds like a jet without it.
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  #22  
Old November 27th, 2015, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
We actually finished up turning the heater OFF?..
They do come with thermostats that turn them on and off using magic.
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  #23  
Old November 27th, 2015, 01:41 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Great info, guys. John, what do you mean by "you need it insulated"? The fuel lines? Air hoses? I'm not sure where I would put one. Maybe an air heater in my cubby system in back. I wonder if the coolant heater could fit under the passenger seat.
I've always thought about installing it in a custom box under the second row seat box in a 110 SW, set up so that there were just outlets entering through the the front of the seat box.

In a 110 2-door, I feel like the best thing would be an under-fender install or somewhere where you could get it to blow through the stock vents, that would distribute the air and give you a heater/defrost boost when you wanted it.
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  #24  
Old November 27th, 2015, 01:45 PM
the rover shop
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shayne young
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
They do come with thermostats that turn them on and off using magic.
Yes, but the thermostat on these detects the temperature at the heater unit itself, instead of room temperature, and the starting and stopping of the unit is what draws the most power, as it's the glow heater and fire up that takes the most energy, in a cold climate with a cold wife the last thing you need to be doing is taking chances with a dead battery..... But thanks for the insight..

------ Follow up post added November 27th, 2015 01:48 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
I've always thought about installing it in a custom box under the second row seat box in a 110 SW, set up so that there were just outlets entering through the the front of the seat box.

In a 110 2-door, I feel like the best thing would be an under-fender install or somewhere where you could get it to blow through the stock vents, that would distribute the air and give you a heater/defrost boost when you wanted it.
These were commonly installed under the rear seats in this position under the rear seats in the defenders mounted on the vertical face.... The coolant fed aux heater was often installed in the front seat box under the passengers side.. But as mentioned, this was a coolant fed aux heater..
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  #25  
Old November 27th, 2015, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
In a 110 2-door, I feel like the best thing would be an under-fender install or somewhere where you could get it to blow through the stock vents, that would distribute the air and give you a heater/defrost boost when you wanted it.
They do not move very much air and I doubt have enough air pressure to compete with the stock heater. They are just meant to recirculate air with very little to no restrictions. they use a very low power fan to keep electrical use low. They are also not designed to be mounted "outside".

I think I said it in another thread. An Airtop 2000 does 35 cfm. The stock heater does 170 cfm.
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  #26  
Old November 27th, 2015, 02:18 PM
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shayne young
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If you were to want it to blow harder you could install one of those marine bilge pump blower motors..they don't restrict flow when not spinning but do move air quite effectively, and they are designed to be used as an in line application..although I would be inclined to use it as a pusher, not sure the fan could handle the heat as a puller..
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  #27  
Old November 27th, 2015, 03:23 PM
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Why wouldn't you put the coolant heater in the engine compartment? Next to..... the coolant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Great info, guys. John, what do you mean by "you need it insulated"? The fuel lines? Air hoses? I'm not sure where I would put one. Maybe an air heater in my cubby system in back. I wonder if the coolant heater could fit under the passenger seat.
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  #28  
Old November 27th, 2015, 03:27 PM
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Normally you would. The toolbox under the right seat is a good spot for the air heater.
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  #29  
Old November 27th, 2015, 04:24 PM
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Yep, that I get.

I still haven't gotten to install mine. I made a nice mounting bracket for it. Just need to find the time...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Normally you would. The toolbox under the right seat is a good spot for the air heater.
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  #30  
Old November 27th, 2015, 04:37 PM
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To be clear, we're talking about two separate devices: the coolant heater and the cabin heater. I'm actually considering both, but the cabin heater is the priority for me.

Carl, didn't you make a bracket to mount the Webasto in place of the washer fluid bottle? That's a good spot, but I'm saving that space for an onboard air system.
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  #31  
Old November 27th, 2015, 06:49 PM
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I installed an Airtronic D2 under the passenger seat with the battery. The rotating heat vent is facing into the passenger footwell. The intake is on the door side of seat box. Plenty of heat in below zero temps up front, no insulation anywhere, but that would definitely help the temps in the back. I've used it while camping in the cold but typically just to warm things up in the am. As has been stated they are loud when running on high, some could probably sleep through it but not me. Low- med adjustment on thermostat and it's pretty quiet.
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  #32  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:18 PM
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Robert Davis
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Why could't you use an HVAC thermostst with a remote control, then hook the neater and 12V AC system to start and stop automagically... yes it will draw some juice, but with a deep cycle who cares if it goes flat, you can add a charge guard and protect the start up or even the deep cycle if needed to protect the battery from going completely dead. All the HVAC thermostst would do is trip a 12V relay to run the heat or AC.
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  #33  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Why could't you use an HVAC thermostst with a remote control, then hook the neater and 12V AC system to start and stop automagically... yes it will draw some juice, but with a deep cycle who cares if it goes flat, you can add a charge guard and protect the start up or even the deep cycle if needed to protect the battery from going completely dead. All the HVAC thermostst would do is trip a 12V relay to run the heat or AC.
I think that would be a sweet setup. I'm building a storage cubby/sleeping platform in the rear of my truck. I'm thinking that the heater should live down in that thing, with air intake/exhaust vents somewhere on the sides of the platform. Maybe inlet on one side and outlet on the other. Put a thermostat/control somewhere accessible to the sleeping platform and a charge guard on the circuit just in case.

If it can fit, I think the passenger (right) side front seat cubby would be a good place for a coolant heater.

------ Follow up post added November 27th, 2015 06:37 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Think about how warm those DRASH tents get when they have the liner installed. Shayne said it was 76F in his RTT using the airtronic. you're about double that space.
Ha! That's exactly what I had in mind. An insulated inner liner that fixes to the inside of my rollcage that's removable during the summer. It could also double as a nice blackout curtain for those nights when you roll into camp super late.
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  #34  
Old November 27th, 2015, 08:23 PM
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mark kellgren
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there's also no reason why you couldn't install the cabin heater in a removable box. Just add in the box it's own 2 gal diesel fuel tank, and have a power cord that will let you plug in the box to a 12V power outlet. You could find a spot to mount the box in winter, and put a hole in the bed of the truck to line up with the exhaust so it vents outside. remove box in warmer season and plug hole with a blanking plug. heater outlet vent could have coupling so if you wanted to, you could mount a heater air hose to it and run it into an RTT. you could even have the heater box on the ground running into a ground tent, and just run the power lead into a power pack or back to the vehicle.
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  #35  
Old November 27th, 2015, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Why could't you use an HVAC thermostst with a remote control, then hook the neater and 12V AC system to start and stop automagically... yes it will draw some juice, but with a deep cycle who cares if it goes flat, you can add a charge guard and protect the start up or even the deep cycle if needed to protect the battery from going completely dead. All the HVAC thermostst would do is trip a 12V relay to run the heat or AC.
All the air heaters come with thermostats. You can get wireless remotes as well.
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  #36  
Old November 28th, 2015, 02:27 AM
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I installed my Espar coolant heater in place of the washer bottle on the NAS 90 and just got a left front fender washer bottle to replace it.

What would be the problem with plumbing an air heater into the stock heater and using the stock blower to boost the airflow?

In fact, you'll get some heat just by using a coolant heater and turning the heater fan on. Not sure how long that would take to drain the battery, but it would produce and circulate heat.
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  #37  
Old November 28th, 2015, 12:42 PM
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I'm really just looking for something that will quietly heat the rear of the truck where I sleep (no RTT, I sleep on a platform). My stock heater works well when I'm driving but I wouldn't want to run it when camping. Too loud, too much current draw, and it's heating the wrong area. The coolant heater is useful, too, but for a different use case entirely.

I found a local big-rig outfitter place that is a dealer. I'm going to stop by next week to check them out.
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  #38  
Old November 28th, 2015, 01:03 PM
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Chris, adventure trailer is a distributor of a great propane option as well if you want to go that route.
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  #39  
Old November 28th, 2015, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
I'm really just looking for something that will quietly heat the rear of the truck where I sleep (no RTT, I sleep on a platform). My stock heater works well when I'm driving but I wouldn't want to run it when camping. Too loud, too much current draw, and it's heating the wrong area. The coolant heater is useful, too, but for a different use case entirely.

I found a local big-rig outfitter place that is a dealer. I'm going to stop by next week to check them out.
Sounds like my setup. Get the D2 and be happy.
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  #40  
Old November 28th, 2015, 03:37 PM
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Sounds like my setup. Get the D2 and be happy.
Interesting. How do you access the fridge, though? I'm still working on designs that have the fridge on a slide mounted at the rear of the lower tub, just to keep it accessible. It's kind of a crap location, though--right in the middle of where you want your feet to be.



------ Follow up post added November 28th, 2015 02:38 PM ------

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Chris, adventure trailer is a distributor of a great propane option as well if you want to go that route.
Thanks. Propane would be great but it's hard to justify another fuel onboard when I already carry 30 gallons of diesel.
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