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  #41  
Old November 13th, 2014, 08:29 AM
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Bill Adams
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You won't save money using counterfeit parts on things that make the truck stop, go, roll and steer.
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  #42  
Old November 13th, 2014, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Re: Steering arm ball joint rebuild kit; There are three levels of quality. Britpart made in china garbage, which is about $25-30. Allmakes, which is sometimes China, sometimes EU, but of better quality (attempting to replicate OEM) $50-ish, and then there's genuine. Genuine is about $80-120 depending on where you shop.
Allmakes is usually the same part as a Britpart one.

Most parts you can get aftermarket, OEM and Genuine. OEM is usually the best choice as long as it has a real brand name on it. You can't just say "Britpart" or "Allmakes" as you can get both aftermarket and OEM from both of those suppliers.

For instance, on the drop arm balljoint kit, through Britpart you can get RBG000010 which will be mystery China supply and RBG000010G which is OEM supply.
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  #43  
Old November 13th, 2014, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
150 per tank! Man I have an auto and I get a min of 175...That's funny most gauge per gallon not tank...lol.
The "per tank" measure really brings up your tolerance to risk (or experience) since the red zone starts pretty early! I do 150 miles on mine (33" tires, so that's a bit more in reality) and then feel the urge to gas up. I have checked multiple times but can never remember how much the tank holds. And I make a religious effort to never get the actual MPG number.
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  #44  
Old November 13th, 2014, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand View Post
The "per tank" measure really brings up your tolerance to risk (or experience) since the red zone starts pretty early! I do 150 miles on mine (33" tires, so that's a bit more in reality) and then feel the urge to gas up. I have checked multiple times but can never remember how much the tank holds. And I make a religious effort to never get the actual MPG number.
holds about 15 gallons. I get 189 per tank with 1/4 gallon left based on driving with a broken fuel gage for the last 5 years.
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  #45  
Old November 13th, 2014, 12:27 PM
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Thanks for all the help. I can't say enough. I bought the part through Atlantic British. They had the full arm with ball joint for less, but I assume it would be a bigger issue to replace. .. and ship.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Bring extra belts, fuel pump relays, stepper motor, coolant, 10w-30 oil, redline trans fluid, 90w gear oil, castrol brake fluid...
What's a stepper motor?

Should I have more then one file pump relay?

And the oil lines, bring some of those?
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  #46  
Old November 13th, 2014, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by petminded View Post
Thanks for all the help. I can't say enough. I bought the part through Atlantic British. They had the full arm with ball joint for less, but I assume it would be a bigger issue to replace. .. and ship. What's a stepper motor? Should I have more then one file pump relay? And the oil lines, bring some of those?
Oh, Boy!

Dude, please do a search here on Oil Cooler lines.
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  #47  
Old November 13th, 2014, 01:43 PM
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I did do a search. Still a bit lost. Do you mean trans oil cooler lines? If so that would explain my confusion. I have a manual.
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  #48  
Old November 13th, 2014, 01:45 PM
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[QUOTE=petminded;581933]They had the full arm with ball joint for less, but I assume it would be a bigger issue to replace. .. and ship.

Now comes the issues of,
1. removal & installation of the new pitman arm. (I have read many bad things in this forum about getting this sucker off & re-tightened properly.
2. getting the new arm on the correct teeth so everything is as it was before removal.

------ Follow up post added November 13th, 2014 10:46 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by petminded View Post
I did do a search. Still a bit lost. Do you mean trans oil cooler lines? If so that would explain my confusion. I have a manual.
The oil cooler lines from the engine to the radiator.
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  #49  
Old November 13th, 2014, 01:46 PM
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oh. my. god.

oil cooler lines = engine oil cooler lines Not necessarily something to bring WITH you on a trip, but something you should have ALREADY changed out RIGHT AFTER YOU BOUGHT YOUR VEHICLE - preferably to braided stainless if not removing them completely. Buy them from Trailhead 4x4 for quickest results.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=38794
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  #50  
Old November 13th, 2014, 06:46 PM
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This sums it up pretty well.
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  #51  
Old November 13th, 2014, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
This sums it up pretty well.
For those that doubt, you may recall my oil cooler lines let go on my NAS about 2 miles from purchase location (there's a thread on my close call somewhere on here). Thanks to some quick thinking, luck, and the fact I was only 2-miles into the trip and the manifold had not really heated up yet saved my ass (and my trucks ass). Had them rebuilt the next morning and headed to Rausch for some wheeling that afternoon!
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  #52  
Old November 13th, 2014, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
oh. my. god.

oil cooler lines = engine oil cooler lines Not necessarily something to bring WITH you on a trip, but something you should have ALREADY changed out RIGHT AFTER YOU BOUGHT YOUR VEHICLE - preferably to braided stainless if not removing them completely.
I'm still lost... oil cooler lines? I don't think I have those. Also how do you open the hood?

;-)
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  #53  
Old November 13th, 2014, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petminded View Post
Thanks for all the help. I can't say enough. I bought the part through Atlantic British. They had the full arm with ball joint for less, but I assume it would be a bigger issue to replace. .. and ship.



What's a stepper motor?

Should I have more then one file pump relay?

And the oil lines, bring some of those?
Stepper motor is the idle control valve attached to the rear of the intake plenum on the passenger side. It's the same part used in a mid 80's Astro van and available at Pep Boys for about $15.

There are two relays on the same part number for the fuel and ecu. I got my spares (Bosch) from KOI auto for a fraction of the genuine price.

The oil coller lines (if you are still running with the original) should be replaced with stainless steel braided lines. ECR and Trailhead 4x4 sells kits.

Happy motoring...

One last thing you need...
A set of LR3 running boards. I'm sure you could alter them to fit your 90...lol
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  #54  
Old November 13th, 2014, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
For those that doubt, you may recall my oil cooler lines let go on my NAS about 2 miles from purchase location (there's a thread on my close call somewhere on here). Thanks to some quick thinking, luck, and the fact I was only 2-miles into the trip and the manifold had not really heated up yet saved my ass (and my trucks ass). Had them rebuilt the next morning and headed to Rausch for some wheeling that afternoon!
Yeah that's too bad...
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  #55  
Old November 13th, 2014, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
Yeah that's too bad...
Too bad that it didn't catch on fire?
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  #56  
Old November 13th, 2014, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
oh. my. god.

oil cooler lines = engine oil cooler lines Not necessarily something to bring WITH you on a trip, but something you should have ALREADY changed out RIGHT AFTER YOU BOUGHT YOUR VEHICLE - preferably to braided stainless if not removing them completely. Buy them from Trailhead 4x4 for quickest results.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=38794
X2. Did them on the '95 I just bought first thing. One owner, 200K miles and can you believe the original oil lines? Trailhead is great to work with.
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  #57  
Old November 13th, 2014, 09:40 PM
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Dave, look inside your engine bay, passenger side of the radiator. You should see somewhere two thin hoses going into the rad and then connecting to the engine by the oil filter (If I recall correctly). If these are still there (You can remove them and run w/out em) and if they look at all old, then they should be replaced. Its easy and quick and one of the little things that has been the demise of many a NAS Defender.

Mine sprung a pinhole leak when they were 11 years old. I was on my way through town going home from work. LUCKILY I was idling at a stoplight when I smelled/saw the smoke. I was able to pull across the street into a parking lot, shut her down and thank god it all ended there. I knew of the issue and was quick to act, the engine was at idle and there was no road speed/wind to keep the smoke from my nostrils. No melt down for me, but close.


Regarding weakness of a90, bring a whole electrical harness, a set of all sensors and relays on your journey.
~Steve
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  #58  
Old November 14th, 2014, 01:05 AM
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Too bad that it didn't catch on fire?
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  #59  
Old November 14th, 2014, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abeer View Post
Transfer case popped into neutral on a descent and I flopped.

I'll never live that down. Haha
so you where going down and you ended up there.
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  #60  
Old November 14th, 2014, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by aka rover View Post
so you where going down and you ended up there.
That's not his truck in the pic, that's the truck doing the winching to pull his truck back over.

Here's his truck:

Click image for larger version

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