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  #1  
Old March 5th, 2011, 08:13 PM
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Waxoyl

I have a D110 and the chassis is in pretty good shape. I'm in Atlanta Georgia area and wondering two questions.

1. Does Waxoyl work and
2. Where in the Atlanta area I can get it done.

thanks in advnace
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  #2  
Old March 5th, 2011, 08:42 PM
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I've been using it and it seems to work well. One thing, it does seem to attract dirt and mud which is impossible to remove off the areas that are coated with it. At least it's protected.

Not that this helps you in Atlanta, but here are recognized application centers from waxoyl's website:

http://waxoyl-usa.com/?page_id=16
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  #3  
Old March 6th, 2011, 07:36 AM
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Thanks I appreciate the info. I amy call a few shops to see if they know anyone.
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  #4  
Old March 6th, 2011, 12:28 PM
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We do waxoyl at our shop. It works great!!
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  #5  
Old March 6th, 2011, 02:30 PM
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I will try a few shops in Atlanta this week. Thanks I will I had time to drive to Orlando to have it done there.
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  #6  
Old March 6th, 2011, 04:45 PM
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The skill/experience of the shop applying the Waxoyl is critical. Don't let just anyone try it. Make sure they know what they're doing.
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  #7  
Old March 7th, 2011, 02:10 AM
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If there is any rust on or inside the frame, Waxoyl won't kill it. You need to clean/convert any rust before you apply the Waxoyl, or it will keep rusting AND you will not see it under the Waxoyl until things get ugly.

Personally I'm not a big Waxoyl fan. I has a benefit in locations where they salt the roads, or in coastal areas, but if you don't have either of those conditions to deal with I'd just clean the chassis regularly inside and out with a pressure washer and keep it painted.
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  #8  
Old March 7th, 2011, 06:42 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I will pressure wash it and see what the situation is. I want to put a galvanized chassis on but not until necessary. I thought that with Waxoyl I might get more time out of the chassis.
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  #9  
Old March 7th, 2011, 08:25 AM
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It's not inevitable that you will need to go with a galvanized frame. There are steps that can be taken that will keep the oem frame free from corrosion. First, recognize that the LR frame is a box and not a channel. That box construction allows for a thinner metal and is very strong. Unfortunately, it also provides a nice enclosed space where moisture can collect and corrosion can start. Go under your truck and look for low spots in the frame or places where water can collect. Drill some weep holes at these locations ( watch for wiring in the frame). Now you have done two things, allowed the moisture to escape and not colllect and provided more ventilation to allow air to circulate. Finish the job by applying a corrosion coating of your choice. Eastwood has a good frame coating and it comes with a long tube and nozzle. With the new holes in the frame you can get to every part.
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  #10  
Old March 8th, 2011, 11:15 PM
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I have had a waxoyled frame for a couple of years now. It works well for short term purposes. If you like to wheel your rig it sucks because dust, dirt and mud sticks to it and is hard to remove. I suppose it's still protecting the frame even thought it's caked over but it bothers me because you can't tell the condition of it underneath all that "cake". It's a temporary solution and a crude one at at. Galvanizing and painting the galvanized frame is a longer term solution. That's where I'm headed. Waxoyl is still a great product for short term purposes.
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  #11  
Old March 9th, 2011, 05:51 AM
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From what I have seen on my trucks that get wheeled is the dirt build up, inside the frame and rear cross member. If you can keep that stuff realistically clean, rust shouldn't be a problem. Salt is the killer, however, so during the winter, for me, I try to clean the salt off asap. I clean the outside of the frame and give it a good coat of Rustproof Paint. If you have a badly rusted area I treat the rust, as mentioned above, to neutralize it and then paint it. In fact I think I paint everything, LOL..
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  #12  
Old March 9th, 2011, 12:06 PM
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Where is there wiring inside of the frame in a d90?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
It's not inevitable that you will need to go with a galvanized frame. There are steps that can be taken that will keep the oem frame free from corrosion. First, recognize that the LR frame is a box and not a channel. That box construction allows for a thinner metal and is very strong. Unfortunately, it also provides a nice enclosed space where moisture can collect and corrosion can start. Go under your truck and look for low spots in the frame or places where water can collect. Drill some weep holes at these locations ( watch for wiring in the frame). Now you have done two things, allowed the moisture to escape and not colllect and provided more ventilation to allow air to circulate. Finish the job by applying a corrosion coating of your choice. Eastwood has a good frame coating and it comes with a long tube and nozzle. With the new holes in the frame you can get to every part.
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  #13  
Old March 9th, 2011, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaKevin View Post
Where is there wiring inside of the frame in a d90?

Don't they all run inside the right hand frame rail from the bulkhead back?

------ Follow up post added March 9th, 2011 05:17 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
Eastwood has a good frame coating and it comes with a long tube and nozzle. With the new holes in the frame you can get to every part.
Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator" paint is a good product too. It's more amenable to topcoats than POR-15, and comes in aerosol. And when my aging memory decides to spit it out, I'll post the name of a great rust converter I used on my RRC frame.
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[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
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  #14  
Old March 9th, 2011, 12:58 PM
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I have to admit that Waxoyl is a great product. I just don't like the fact that it gets pretty grungy and collects dirt. What would concern me is how well of a job the applicator does on prepping a frame of a Defender that has some miles on it. The prep on these trucks is everything imho. Lot's of places for dirt and debris to collect inside the frame. Personally, I have had very good luck with Por-15 and I like the way it levels out with a brush. On my SIII I have waxoyl on the inside cavities and por 15 on the exterior of the frame. It is kinda the best of both worlds in that the frame looks great and can be cleaned while the interior spaces are fully protected.
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  #15  
Old March 10th, 2011, 02:30 PM
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will power washing remove a Waxoyl coating? If I did a DIY application, would that make me unable to use the powerwasher to remove the salt?
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  #16  
Old March 10th, 2011, 05:01 PM
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It didn't work for me. I ended up using degreasers and a brush after hand scraping. I think steam cleaning would work since the heat would loosen the wax. The stuff is tenacious.
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  #17  
Old March 10th, 2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by founD90 View Post
will power washing remove a Waxoyl coating? If I did a DIY application, would that make me unable to use the powerwasher to remove the salt?
I use a powerwasher after wheeling, at a pretty strong setting and I am amazed that the waxoyl doesn't come off. I do know, from washing salt off my boat with good amounts of soapy water, does remove most of the salt off surfaces. You would see salt watermarks on fiberglass if done half assed. Tougher to see on a car chassis coated with this stuff, but I'm sure a good washing with soap will remove most of the salt residue.

I have used soap and sponge, by hand to try and get the mud sticking to the coating and its probably there to stay. This summer when it's 95 degrees out, I'm going to stick a sprinkler head under the truck and let it soak the frame, then try again. Then touch up any bare spots I see with more waxoyl.

Like others have said basically said, preparation is 90% of the battle for rust prevention. If it's prepped/cleaned properly before coating with waxoyl, I think it will go a long way to seeing rust appear again.

I sleep better knowing I've done what I can to slow rust spread. No matter what you do, even a galvanized frame will eventually show signs of rust if exposed to a salty environment.
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  #18  
Old March 10th, 2011, 09:16 PM
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I had my Defender waxoyled by Eddie at E2 here in Orlando. He did a solid job and overall I'm happy with it. I don't wheel a lot so I can't speak to the dirt and mud sticking to it issues but it looks fantastic. There was really not rust to speak of prior to applying.
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