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  #1  
Old April 10th, 2007, 05:01 PM
hamiamham
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mike
97 D-90
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Waxoyl

Does anyone have experience with this product or similar anti-rust spray on products for the underside of the D90.
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  #2  
Old April 10th, 2007, 05:20 PM
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Jesse McCoy
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http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...earchid=186044
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  #3  
Old April 10th, 2007, 10:50 PM
karlusmagnus
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Karl O'Donoghue
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search is your friend

Mike,

here is a discussion just 6 months old. Tells benefits and how it works, cavities etc.

or here as waxoyl and ospho are dicussed at length

and that's just searching for waxoyl in the "looking for help" area.

Besides the fact that most people who will respond are people who have already responded to previous threads.
Why should they respond again to the same question?
They might, but use the seach 1st in case not.

In terms of having a shop waxoyl your underbody, and it is almost a must in the North east, there is JE Robison who do it.
Seach "robison" to find results.
I have bought a rover from John, and he is as sound as a pound.

While I am still looking for a D-90 (my ideal is an arles blue 95 or 97 with 75k miles for $22k), once i find my rust free/corrosion free D-90, I will waxoyl it for definite.

All the best in your search, and if you have already found "the one", post some pics and let us know, or tell us about your search and how it goes.

Karl.
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  #4  
Old April 10th, 2007, 11:24 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Gettin' close... http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=11001
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  #5  
Old April 10th, 2007, 11:38 PM
karlusmagnus
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Karl O'Donoghue
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Need AC. installed.
As a daily driver, it's a must.
As corrosion free as can be.
Oher than that, it is real nice.

Now, back to rust
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  #6  
Old April 11th, 2007, 08:29 AM
karlusmagnus
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Karl O'Donoghue
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back to waxoyl

Mike, if you go to robison, you'll see $849 for D90 waxoyl treatment + $45 prep per hr, so you are looking at $1k for them to do the job.
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  #7  
Old April 11th, 2007, 09:09 AM
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Peter Sherman
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$1k for them to do the job.
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  #8  
Old April 11th, 2007, 09:53 AM
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Matt Wunderle
1995 Defender 90
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Oder your waxoyl from Rovers North. Get both the hard wax and the misting wax to spray in the cavities. I did mine when I replaces the shocks and springs. I powerwashed the underside of the truck, then scrubbed the frame with a wire brush. My D-90 was from Arizona, so there was absolutly no rust, so I had an easier time. I would never pay 1k for someone else to do the 4 hour job. Also, I made sure that everything was covered with multiple coats, and every interior tube was misted.

Matt...
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  #9  
Old April 11th, 2007, 12:26 PM
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Mike
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfndr90
Oder your waxoyl from Rovers North. Get both the hard wax and the misting wax to spray in the cavities. I did mine when I replaces the shocks and springs. I powerwashed the underside of the truck, then scrubbed the frame with a wire brush. My D-90 was from Arizona, so there was absolutly no rust, so I had an easier time. I would never pay 1k for someone else to do the 4 hour job. Also, I made sure that everything was covered with multiple coats, and every interior tube was misted.

Matt...

Matt,

Getting ready to do mine. Did you use a de-greaser when cleaning the underside?

Cheers...
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  #10  
Old April 11th, 2007, 08:31 PM
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EDWARD BAHAW
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I came across a home made recipe for waxoyle. It costs about US$15


http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_21/waxoyl.html

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/r...?1,22473,22523

I am yet to try it!


Regards
Ed
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  #11  
Old April 12th, 2007, 09:01 PM
adam@robison
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Adam Check
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Granted, my opinions on this topic might be tainted because I work at JE Robison, but the Waxoyl that you buy from RN and apply yourself will never come close to the Waxoyl that we apply here. The product is the same, but the application technique is everything. The Waxoyl in the aerosol can does not atomize the same way coming out of the can as when it is applied with the correct spray gun. When we fog out a truck with the clear wax, it is in such a fine mist that it looks more like smoke than spray. This ensures that the product gets into every cavity of the frame and bodyshell.

I am a huge advocate of this product and use it on my own vehicles. When properly applied as we do here at the shop, one application will last you a long time. At the price, it is cheap insurance against how these trucks rust. If yours is still rust free, you are only hurting yourself and your truck by not protecting it.
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  #12  
Old April 12th, 2007, 10:23 PM
hamiamham
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mike
97 D-90
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sent you a pm, adam
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  #13  
Old April 13th, 2007, 06:02 AM
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Gary Baxter
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I agree with Adam. I just spent a bundle of cash on a vehicle I have lusted over for many years. Thanks to the advice from guys on this forum, I held out for a relatively rust-free truck. For me, it's a no-brainer to have a professional apply the waxoyl to preserve a truck that I intend to drive forever.

I know I could have ordered the goop and attempted to apply it myself but I also know that I would have gotten more of it on myself than on the truck. And there's no way I would have successfully covered all the nooks and crannies that a professional application would cover. I would have driven around Maine (and all that implies) thinking my precious truck was safe while all the while it was rusting out from under me.

Now, I know that many of the members here are talented DIYers and would feel comfortable taking this on but I'm not one of them. If you are, go for the gusto.
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  #14  
Old August 27th, 2007, 07:49 PM
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Jeff
1989 RRC
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I just bought the whole set-up from RN for about $500. I got 10L tins of both the 120-4 and the hardwax, as well as a applicator gun and two wands. This system should replicate more closely what they do at Robison than the aerosol cans do. You hook your air line up to the gun.

My truck (89 RRC) is really clean. Very little to no rust, and never been off road. I am going to mask off my SS exhaust, but what else should I be aware to keep the hardwax away from? I also plan to pressure wash and prep meticulously.

Also, I can get into the frame and doors through factory holes, but my sills are perfect, with no holes. Should I just hit them on the outside with hardwax, or drill some holes in there? Also, how do I get the 120-4 into the bulkhead on a RRC?

thanks,

Jeff
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