Water pump tensioner - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 18th, 2004, 08:49 AM
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Water pump tensioner

Anyone have a water pump belt tensioner sitting around for a 3.9 V belt? The pulley almost fell off the shaft Friday night as I pulled into my parking spot at home. It sounded like I had a turbo as I drove up the street and when popped the hood I saw the pulley was almost off the shaft and there were only 2 ball bearings left inside it.
Thanks
Mike
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  #2  
Old October 18th, 2004, 10:58 AM
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jim pendleton
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Dam,
I prolly got one. Didn't I just send you an AC tensioner some time back. Do you ever wash the mud out of that truck?

JP
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  #3  
Old October 18th, 2004, 12:17 PM
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Yeah I know about the mud, I wish they were greasable so I could push the mud and water out of them. The thing is I need the pulley quick as I leave Thursday night/Friday morning for a trip to PA. Do you think you could ship one to me by then?
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  #4  
Old October 18th, 2004, 08:41 PM
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Mike,
If you look at the parts breakdown for a RRC, the bearing is available separately and is much cheaper than an assembly...assuming the pulley has not come completely off. Also, the tensioner for the A/C is the same I believe...so if you're in a pinch you could use that.
Rob
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  #5  
Old October 19th, 2004, 12:20 AM
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We need a part number and tech writeup on this fix somewhere at D90source.

JP
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  #6  
Old October 19th, 2004, 08:43 AM
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hmmm, my AC pulley looks a bit different, it mounts through a bolt, and the tensinoner mounts through a bolt, but the water pump pulley is (or was) pressed on to the tennsioner and the tensioner was mounted on shaft. Kinda hard to explain but I'll take some pics later for ya all.

Oh and thatnks to Pete M I should have a good tennsioner comming.

Follow-up Post:

The one I need looks like this

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  #7  
Old October 19th, 2004, 03:38 PM
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I'm your guy...I just went through this, Mike call Rover's North NOW they'll have the part to you stat. Pendy, it's been a life long ambition to get published, so put together a petition to have this added to the source...here goes:

DO NOT ignore for an extended period of time. If the bearing lets go you are in a world of hurt. The pulley will ping-pong around your engine compartment & shatter, taking out your radiator among other expensive Rover parts.

-Order PN 614154 from Rover's North - $65
-Remove the tensioner with a 13mm? socket
-Go to a lawnmower/local mechanic/buddy with a bearing press
-Press out the old destroyed bearing, press in the new one
-The bearing is not shouldered, so you have to eyeball how far in to press the new one. I did a little trial & error, i.e. the first time I remounted it, the pulley was slightly out of line, so I continued to press it in until the tensioner pulley lined up with the water pump pulley.
-The part is not spec'd on a '95, only the full assembly (ERR3767) is noted at $199. If the chunk of steel that is your tensioner arm; and the chunk of steel that is your tensioner pulley; are not damaged (99% confidence that they are not) then there is no need for a new assembly, all you need is the bearing.
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  #8  
Old October 19th, 2004, 03:51 PM
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Michael, could you take a pic of your pulley, mine does not have a bearing that could be pressed out.
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  #9  
Old October 20th, 2004, 12:41 AM
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Mike,
The really early 1994 A/C units had a different bearing on a threaded shaft...you must have one of them. The later units use a tensioner like the waterpump. If you order the part it will all make sense...the bearing assembly includes the shaft and outer sleeve as well as the dust cap. Punch the shaft/bearing out of the backside of the tensioner arm, then punch it out of the pulley. Using a vise and some sockets press the new bearing/shaft assembly into the pulley first, being careful not to press on the shaft, only the outer bearing race. Next, press the pulley/bearing into the tensioner body making sure to press only on the shaft. Lastly, install the dust cap. Take measurements before disassembly and get it close on reassembly. I usually end up getting about 50-60k miles before they need changing.
Cheers, Rob
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  #10  
Old October 20th, 2004, 08:42 AM
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Mike,

My pulley looks exactly like the photo you attached. I remember looking at mine & thinking the same thing, that there's nothing to press out, but if what you need is what's in that photo attached to your link, follow my/roadsiderob's instructions & you're all set. Also, I did not specify in my how-to, but like Roadsiderob says, there is a definite order to pressing the new bearing in as not to irreparably damage the new pulley.
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  #11  
Old October 20th, 2004, 08:45 AM
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So then the newer style AC tennsioner is what you are talking about, and I am just using parts from it on my water pump pulley?
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  #12  
Old October 20th, 2004, 01:43 PM
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If you need to fix the assembly in the picture you attached, either order part number ERR3767 - the whole assembly - or order part number 614514 - just the bearing. I am disregarding all prior input from others, what I'm telling you is if you need to fix the assembly in the picture you attached, do so by following above instructions.
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  #13  
Old October 20th, 2004, 02:10 PM
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KO I just need to replace the bearing then.
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  #14  
Old October 20th, 2004, 03:06 PM
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You are correct, just take it to any local mechanic w/ a good hydraulic press & you're all set. Now, I do not have A/C, so I cannot comment on cannibalizing the AC to get the part needed. If the AC tensioner & the water pump tensioner are the same, I do not see why this wouldn't work.
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  #15  
Old March 7th, 2005, 08:50 PM
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Just thought I would add my solution to the bearing replacement on the water pump belt tensioner. I had it off and the bearings sounded a little gritty. The rebuild kit was $80.00 from Atlantic British. The original bearings use the shaft as the inner race, so you can not just push out the bearings and replace. I used a 3/4" rod and lathed it down and bought some bearing from Whistler Bearing Co. in denver. While lathing I went ahead and nurled the shaft. And as a safety installed a snap ring. I attached pictures of the finish product(sorry I did not take a pictures of just the lathed shaft. The total cost for me was about $30.00, but I can now change out the bearings using a standard bearing.

brian
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  #16  
Old March 7th, 2005, 09:15 PM
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Nice job Brian! This needs to go to tech now!
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  #17  
Old March 9th, 2005, 09:49 AM
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If we are talking about the same thing, I just pulled the pulley wheel off and went to autozone. The salesman and I went into the back and started opening boxes of pulleys until one matched. About $25 (maybe even less) and I think it was for a Ford. I went home attached the new pulley wheel to the shaft and 6 months later it is still working fine. Now I have a serpentine belt and the pulley is different from the one in the pics but I don't see why it wouldn't work for your problem also.
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  #18  
Old March 10th, 2005, 10:46 AM
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Yea Mike,

These are a different pulley system in that on the '94 waterpump/crank shaft belt tensioner if you pull the pulley off your bearings are still in place, because the shaft and bears are one unit. I pressed off the pulley and then shaft. Just for kicks and giggles I tried to press the bearings off. It took all of 10 tons to finally break the outer race. I was then left with the shaft, The shaft that connect the the pulley to the braket is the inner race.

Now, with the AC compressor/water pump belt tensioner I was able to press the pulley off and then press the bearings out. These were a sealed bearing unit that Whistler Bearings had a match for. So very easy.
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  #19  
Old March 15th, 2005, 12:54 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Mike, did you end up replacing the bearings as described here? How did it go? Both my A/C and waterpump pulleys are identical and also don't look very easy to replace the bearings on.

But I am replacing the waterpump and belts right now and it seems to me this is the time to replace the pulley bearings too. They have a bit of play in them and sound like they have no lubrication.

charles
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  #20  
Old March 15th, 2005, 07:52 AM
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Nope, i just replaced the engine
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