Wading in deep mud...what fluids do I need to change? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 3rd, 2013, 04:54 AM
sro
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Wading in deep mud...what fluids do I need to change?



I spent some time a few weekends ago in deep mud. Does anyone know what fluids I should change?

Also, I couldn't find a wading plug on the transmission (R380). Am I missing something? This thread makes it seem like they're only on diesels: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=24940
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  #2  
Old May 3rd, 2013, 07:28 AM
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I guess it depends on how long you were in the mud and what the conditions were before going in. Your rear axle vent is not much higher up than the mud you were in. The front axle and transmission vents are higher up on the firewall. If you haven't replace your axle fluid might be a good excuse to replace it. If you went in hot and the water was cool you might have sucked in water to the other fluids but if everything was sound you may be OK.
I could be wrong but I think all the R380's have the wading plug hole. It is on the bottom of the bell housing.
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 07:57 AM
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Just check your fluids, make sure they don't look like chocolate milk. If you didn't change all of them when you bought the truck, now is a great time to do it.
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 08:09 AM
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Diff fluids = 90wt oil, also swivel ball housing should be checked, this is oil as well, unless someone was running grease before you...then you have a PIA to get all the grease out.
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90 View Post
Just check your fluids, make sure they don't look like chocolate milk. If you didn't change all of them when you bought the truck, now is a great time to do it.
X2 on the diffs, transmission and t-case. That stuff looks like wet concrete.
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 09:33 AM
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Definitely clean out the mud ASAP with a hose. Once it dries in odd places, it's very difficult to remove. This includes in the engine bay and between the bulkhead and outriggers and inside the frame.

What Craig said as well - the swivel balls especially. The seal on the swivel ball is only for keeping oil/grease in the ball - there is actually a gaping hole near the top of the seal that will allow water to ingress easily.
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sro View Post

I spent some time a few weekends ago in deep mud. Does anyone know what fluids I should change?
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=24940
Looks like on AT tires with little to no tread. Did momentum only carry you that far?
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Definitely clean out the mud ASAP with a hose. Once it dries in odd places, it's very difficult to remove. This includes in the engine bay and between the bulkhead and outriggers and inside the frame.

What Craig said as well - the swivel balls especially. The seal on the swivel ball is only for keeping oil/grease in the ball - there is actually a gaping hole near the top of the seal that will allow water to ingress easily.
Well, it sounds like the general consensus is to check or replace just about everything. I'll start by checking the diffs and replace the fluid in the swivel balls. Before my next long road trip I'll also check the zerks on the u-joints, fluid in the transfer case, and the transmission fluid. ugh...

I cleaned out the mud the next day. I was able to get almost all of the mud off. However there's still mud in the inside of parts of the frame. I ran water through the frame (the best I could) for about 30 minutes but the mud was just too thick. The water ran out of the frame clear, but I could tell there was still mud in there.

Now I know any time the inside of the frame gets wet it's going to take forever to dry. Has anyone else been in this situation? Is there some sort of solvent I can use to break up that mud?
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 04:13 PM
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Just check. If seals are all good, everything will be fine. That picture is every trip, all day long around here and much deeper. I do have extended breathers though and anyone that wades should put them in.
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sro View Post
Is there some sort of solvent I can use to break up that mud?
Best way to break up mud is with a hammer
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Best way to break up mud is with a hammer
I would except it's inside the frame...
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 09:14 PM
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If you haven't just go ahead an replace the fluid in the R380 with some MTL, everything else is probably low and needed to be changed anyways. I've spent a lot of time in the deep NC clay that we have in the piedmont, Ive always been impressed with Rover wheel bearing seals. I run wet hubs and have never had issues.
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  #13  
Old May 3rd, 2013, 09:19 PM
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Ditto what John said about your breathers. If you like to play in mud/water, then get extended breathers. Some folks even run them inside their snorkel up to the cap--I just ran mine to above the engine between the bulkhead and engine.

If you don't have extended breathers, then personally, I would at a minimum check all my fluids. I would take my fill plugs out and dip something into the fluid to check. Personally if my finger doesn't reach, I top them off anyways, but first I will dip something down to also judge how much they leak out. I don't like leaks--that typically means something has a better change of getting sucked in as well. I keep all my fluids running clean and clear and change them every year or so no matter what. You can usually tell when you have sucked contaminants into the fluids. If there is any doubt, or they are generally dirty (or don't smell right some cases) then I change them.
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Looks like on AT tires with little to no tread. Did momentum only carry you that far?
That's the first thing I noticed...
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Best way to break up mud is with a hammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
If you haven't just go ahead an replace the fluid in the R380 with some MTL, everything else is probably low and needed to be changed anyways.
Actually already changed all the fluids 1-4,000 miles ago, so I'd prefer not to change them again.

I will check them for mud though.
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  #16  
Old May 4th, 2013, 05:54 AM
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Looks like you wer pushing mud if front of you. If you did not blank off the rad (and AC condenser) make sure it is thorougly hosed through. You may have to go from inside the engine bay, and pull the grill. That mud will have set up hard.
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  #17  
Old May 4th, 2013, 07:03 AM
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Did you have the CDl locked?
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  #18  
Old May 4th, 2013, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sro View Post

Well, it sounds like the general consensus is to check or replace just about everything. I'll start by checking the diffs and replace the fluid in the swivel balls. Before my next long road trip I'll also check the zerks on the u-joints, fluid in the transfer case, and the transmission fluid. ugh...

I cleaned out the mud the next day. I was able to get almost all of the mud off. However there's still mud in the inside of parts of the frame. I ran water through the frame (the best I could) for about 30 minutes but the mud was just too thick. The water ran out of the frame clear, but I could tell there was still mud in there.

Now I know any time the inside of the frame gets wet it's going to take forever to dry. Has anyone else been in this situation? Is there some sort of solvent I can use to break up that mud?
I douse my frame with wd40. It allows mud and salt to wash off with water without power washing it. I also spake the inside of the frame with it as well. Helps keep the moister off/out.

Clay
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Old May 4th, 2013, 06:29 PM
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Sam Odio
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Good thing I checked the diffs. Front diff oil is the same color as the mud pit. Now I'm draining the swivel balls too (they're also dark). That oil is about 2,000 miles old...

The next thing I need to do is check the transfer case and transmission oil...
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  #20  
Old May 4th, 2013, 09:39 PM
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better douche out those swivels
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