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  #21  
Old June 9th, 2012, 11:42 PM
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Some days test you.

So this morning I set the winch in it's tray on the bumper for the first time. There are holes on the bottom and front of the winch that are supposed to line up with holes in the bumper. They didn't. Notice that the spool on the winch is not aligned with the slot in the bumper. Pretty perturbing.

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Now, I could whine to Lucky8 where I bought the bumper, or I could whine to Terrafirma, or I could whine to Superwinch. But there are so many fingers in the pie that I don't think I'd get anywhere. Better just deal with it. There are two fixes for this situation. The easy way would be to cut a notch in the solenoid box on the bottom of the right side, so that the whole winch could slide right. The upper uncut portion of the box would now sit over the bumper and all the holes would line up. All it would need is about 9/16th's. It wouldn't be particularly tidy, though.

The hard way: The cleanest way to do this would be to remove a 9/16th strip of material from the box where it meets the cast iron part on the left. The box attaches to a plate underneath that is screwed to the green cast iron part. It's a close fit around the plate, and as the sides of the box are tapered, once cut, the opening in the side of the box would now be too small to fit over the plate.

Naturally I had to do it the hard way. I cut the strip off the edge of the solenoid box, measured for and drilled the locating holes and the screw hole, and ground and filed the edges of the plate so it would fit within the new smaller perimeter edge of the box. Cleaned up the edges of the cut plastic with a sander and a deburring tool, and put it all back together.

The cut. Fein saw to the rescue.
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The grind. Scribed the line and used the bench grinder. Cleaned up with a file.
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The reassembly. The new edge is as close and even as the factory edge was. There's still plenty of room inside for the solenoid and wiring.
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All's well that ends well, but it did take a precious day from my project.
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  #22  
Old June 10th, 2012, 05:03 AM
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Mike Hammond
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WOW.
I'd never thought of that
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  #23  
Old June 20th, 2012, 07:00 PM
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Progress . . .

Hello again.

When I last left you, I had just modified the winch to fit the winch bumper. Things are moving right along.

Here's the winch installed. Notice the loop of red cable. That comes from the battery. The reason there's a loop is that the solenoid cover cannot be removed while the winch is in the tray. With a little slack in the cable, I can remove the bolts that secure the winch, lift the winch out of the tray, slip a couple of strips of wood underneath to support the winch on top of the bumper, and then work on the winch easily. If there were no slack, I'd have to remove the cable from the battery and slacken the whole cable run, which would be a pain. Having loose cable flopping around under the winch could be a problem, so I found some brackets (pictured at right) to hold the cable in place.

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There are three cables running back to the battery box: pos and neg 1 AWG cables that supply power to the winch, and a 16 ga. 4-conductor cable that allows the means to optionally control the winch from the driver's seat. Those three cables are covered in high temp protective sheathing and are routed through the engine compartment and into the battery box. These photos show the routing from the bumper to the battery box.

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Inside the battery box: I lengthened the battery cables to allow for some open space in the box. I used a giant crimp connector to join the existing positive cable to an additional length. I crimped it with a Nicopress tool and gave it two layers of heat shrink insulation. I was satisfied with the connection and didn't feel the need to solder as well. I attached one end of a new length cable, with a ring terminal, to the mid-point on the existing cable that bolts to the frame. The existing cable continues forward, and the portion aft of the frame bolt was cut off. The battery end of the negative cable, which used to come into the middle inboard wall of the box, now comes through the outboard side of the rear wall. This is a better spot that leaves the middle of the battery box open for storage and allows for tidier routing of the cables. The compressor harness and a 16 ga. 6-conductor cable (from the dash) enter the box at the same area. Grommets are used wherever wiring comes through sheet metal, of course. I found appropriately sized plugs and plugged all the open holes in the battery box as well. Each of the battery connectors has 3 cables attached - for truck, winch, and compressor.

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The compressor harness was too short to make it all the way to the battery, and access to the two inline Maxi fuse housings that came on the harness would mean removing the battery first. The inline Maxi fuse holders were cut off and were substituted with a double Maxi fuse block attached it to the back wall of the battery box. There's a ground block there as well. The fuses can be inspected in place.

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Here are the manual air valves that will control the lockers, plumbed with brass compression fittings and aluminum tubing.

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On the left are the push-pull controls for the valves. On the right, a key switch which enables the winch, and a toggle switch which selects control of the winch from either the dash or the remote socket on the winch.

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Here's the winch with the rope installed. At long last, ready to start the break in!

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Things left on the list:
I still have to do some plumbing under the truck (and have the lockers installed).
Figure out how to mount the front license plate.
Also pondering some sort of weather/sun protection for the winch rope.
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  #24  
Old June 20th, 2012, 09:58 PM
tpond
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Spectacular! One question: is there any concern for the aluminum air line tubing to become work hardened from vibration?
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  #25  
Old June 20th, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpond View Post
Spectacular! One question: is there any concern for the aluminum air line tubing to become work hardened from vibration?
I don't think so. It won't see any more vibration than any other aluminum part of the truck.
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  #26  
Old June 20th, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Good point! Looks great!
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  #27  
Old June 21st, 2012, 06:14 AM
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Gren Thomas
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Nice build..

regards
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  #28  
Old June 21st, 2012, 01:20 PM
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Nice slick install work!!! Done right, nice to see.

One thing that came to mind was perhaps covering the winch controls down on the seatbox.. Working in muddy conditions will quickly leave that whole area slathered in mud. Wouldn't want you to be winchless due to a jammed switch..

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  #29  
Old June 21st, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revtor View Post
Nice slick install work!!! Done right, nice to see.

One thing that came to mind was perhaps covering the winch controls down on the seatbox.. Working in muddy conditions will quickly leave that whole area slathered in mud. Wouldn't want you to be winchless due to a jammed switch..
The key switch I used is spec'd for high pressure washdown equipment. It's as close to waterproof as I could find. The toggle switch is another matter. If I find myself in muddy circumstances (which would be only the rare occasion, as I'm in southern California) I'll remember to cover the panel in Gorilla tape. Thanks.

And thanks to everyone for your kind words.
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  #30  
Old June 21st, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
It looks very clean and tidy, but how do access the battery if you need to jump start it? Did you add a quick connect?
Good question. No quick disconnect. The plastic battery terminal covers can be removed in a few seconds with no tools. Also, an allen key is required to remove the terminals from the posts should the need arise, and one is taped to the top of the battery.


These "what if" questions are great. Too bad there's not a practical way to get all this input during the design phase.
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  #31  
Old July 19th, 2012, 01:01 PM
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Time for another update.

I have gotten around to firing up the compressor for the first time.

Problem 1: I was surprised to note that only one side of the "twin" ARB CKMTA12 was working. Fortunately it is a relatively simple beast and I felt that I could at least partially diagnose the issue. The twin compressors share a manifold and pressure switch, and each has its own relay. Since one side was working, I knew the pressure switch was okay. By unplugging and swapping some wiring I was able to deduce that both relays were working. The problem lay with one of the compressors. So I wrote ARB tech support and told them of my findings. Turns out that the compressor had a bad thermal switch.

While I was not pleased that my compressor failed right out of the box, I have to say that I could not be more pleased with the tech support at ARBUSA. Rather than making me box up the whole compressor and send it in, the tech guy walked me through some further diagnosis and sent parts so that I could fix the compressor myself. It took very little effort on my part less than packaging the thing up and waiting in line at the post office - it didn't cost me anything, and the turn around time was brief. I thought it was unusual that ARB would trust me to fix it myself, but I'm glad they did.

Problem 2: Pneumatic logic, or lack thereof. With the compressor issue sorted I began to test the system. The compressor pressurized the system and filled the tank with no problem. The unloader did what it was supposed to do, and then the compressor kicked on again. It ran for a few seconds and then shut off. The unloader did its thing again, and the cycle continued, with the compressor turning on and then off every few seconds.

Duh. The problem is that the pressure switch is upstream of the check/unloader valve. When the air pressure reaches the pressure switch's threshold, the compressor shuts off. The unloader releases the pressure in the the length of hose between the compressor and the manifold, the pressure switch sees the drop in pressure, and turns the compressor on again. It runs just long enough to pressurize the length of hose and shuts off again. And the cycle continues.

So I have two choices. I could remove the pressure switch from the compressor and relocate it to the manifold downstream of the check/unloader valve, and then run wiring from the compressor to the switch. Or I could just run the system without a check/unloader valve. I'm thinking. . . .
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  #32  
Old January 1st, 2015, 11:37 PM
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