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  #1  
Old December 6th, 2007, 01:52 PM
JimKo
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Jim Kochenderfer
1994 D90
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Vicsous Troubles

I've searched the threads, and tried all the suggestions, and still no success. My radiator is out and at the shop getting boiled out and repaired. The old viscous fan unit is shot and I have a new one. However, progress is halted because I can't get the old viscous unit off of the water pump. I've tried the hit the wrench with a hammer thing, belts on, belts off, strap wrench, penetrating oil, etc. I'm all checked out on the left hand thread operation, but I'm having no success. I'm considering the grinder-gas wrench-sawzall approach, but before I go all jihad on that bad boy, I thought I'd entertain less drastic suggestions. I would like to keep my existing water pump, as it exhibits no signs of wear/impending failure and money doesn't grow on trees. '94 D90 3.9L V8.
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  #2  
Old December 6th, 2007, 02:19 PM
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landrovered
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S. Smith
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You can buy the set of thin wrenches made for that purpose from Rovers North or Atlantic British.

I would try some heat on the outside of the nut that holds the viscous to the water pump, belt on, wrench on drivers side and sharp blow with good size hammer. Should do it.
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  #3  
Old December 6th, 2007, 03:02 PM
JimKo
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Jim Kochenderfer
1994 D90
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Viscous Troubles

I'm going to reveal my ignorance here, but I have the fan loose from the viscous unit and that allows me to move the fan back far enough that I can get an 1 5/16" wrench on the viscous nut. I visited the rovers north website and they sell a viscous coupling wrench, but your post and the RN line drawing accompanying the item states/shows wrenches, plural. I don't see any part of the water pump snout that has a flat spot or some other accomodation for another wrench to hold the shaft in place while one applies the BFW to the viscous unit to seperate the two pieces. And, thanks for the reply.
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  #4  
Old December 6th, 2007, 03:42 PM
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sharp chisel and a lump hammer
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  #5  
Old December 6th, 2007, 04:12 PM
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S. Smith
72 Series III 109 Diesel
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Honestly I have never used the proper tool and have no idea what the second wrench goes on.

I would put the fan back on to keep it out of the way. Point a propane torch at the big nut, get it hot but not so hot that you melt anything in the water pump, have the belts tight to keep it from turning. I use a big tractor size cresent wrench about 24" long, put it on the big nut.

I use a three pound rounding hammer to smack the end of the wrench with on the drivers side of the vehicle. Sometimes I have to squeeze the belts together with my hand to get a little extra resistance on the tough ones.
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  #6  
Old December 6th, 2007, 04:27 PM
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left hand thread undoes clockwise as you look at it
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  #7  
Old December 6th, 2007, 06:13 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Jim, I just did this job this weekend. I too read the posts and decided to rent a fan clutch removal tool from Advanced Auto. The thin 1 5/16 goes on the fan clutch nut, and the large spanner goes around the bolts that hold the pulley on the water pump. I was unsuccessful in using the spanner wrench the correct way. From the instructions in the kit, it looks like it was designed to go around 4 bolts in a square pattern on the water pump pulley. Mine, however, had only three bolts which made the spanner for four bolts useless. Mine did come pre-chiseled though (appears the previous owner took it off at one point). It was two whacks and it was spinning free. Even thought about pre-chiseling the new one on the work bench before I put it back on to make the next guy happy.

Just to back you up, if you're facing your engine, you would whack it towards the driver's side (just like Jimmy pointed out).
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  #8  
Old December 6th, 2007, 06:25 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Aside from the hammer method (and I'm assuming you don't have a compressor) the best way is probably to make yourself a tool like the LR one. Just buy a piece of steel bar stock (about 3/4") at a local lumber/hardware store. You need to measure the distance between center on two pulley bolts and drill holes big enough to slip over the bolt heads. Then you will need to file/cut whatever a cresent moon shape out of the side of the bar stock to clear the pulley. Once you have that done you can slip it on to hold the pulley in place and whack away!

I would not recommend heat as it is way too easy to melt the fan or the water pump seal IMO.
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  #9  
Old December 7th, 2007, 08:37 AM
JimKo
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Jim Kochenderfer
1994 D90
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Viscous Troubles

I got the viscous unit off last night. Thanks for all the assistance. I didn't have to resort to extreme measures. I tried the shoving-shop-rags-up-into-the-belts-and-pulleys trick and that got everything to hold still long enough while I whacked the BFW with a hammer. Thank you Mr. Smith. Also, I misspoke earlier, that nut is 1 1/4" just in case someone with a similar problem goes thread searching here some day. And, I read "landrovered's log" so I'll be soaking my idler pulleys in oil while I'm replacing my front seal and waiting for my radiator to come back from the shop. Thanks to all.
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  #10  
Old December 7th, 2007, 10:05 AM
Emerson00
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Matt J.
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I've got the viscous wrench(ES)... if anyone needs to borrow them, let me know. I fussed and fiddled with that MF for a day before giving in and buying the wrnenches. What a let down... all that fuss with other tools, PBlaster andall kinds f stuff... and 2 minutes with the thin wrenches and it's all apart.
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