Vibration, whine on shifting question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 17th, 2012, 04:19 PM
Rover110
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Steve
1993 Defender 110 NAS #472
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Vibration, whine on shifting question

I have been unable to figure this out so I'm turning to the collective wisdom of the board.

In first gear from a stop I have a nasty clunking at the rear. I was told the a-frame bearing it bad but don't think it's that.

Secondly, when I press clutch to head to second, pull through neutral and into second there is a bad vibration that comes up thru the stick. Happens in every gear during up shift, not down. It happens while getting into the new gear and stops when the clutch is released.

The 110 NAS had an updated rebuilt Trans and t-case and clutch installed about 5k miles ago.

Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I drove about 600 miles this weekend but I'm worried that something will give way causing more damage than I can deal with.

Thanks to all

Steve
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  #2  
Old July 17th, 2012, 08:37 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Check your u-joints. When you switch gears you take the tension off them and they vibrate. When checking, you need to have the handbrake off and the transmission/transfer case in neutral so there is no resistance to turning them. When in this state, try shake the shaft in different directions and it should be clear if the joints are ok or not.
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  #3  
Old July 17th, 2012, 09:11 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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Ok. I'll try it. Rear joint was replaced 2 weeks ago.
Would the vibration be felt up the stick?
Thanks

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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Check your u-joints. When you switch gears you take the tension off them and they vibrate. When checking, you need to have the handbrake off and the transmission/transfer case in neutral so there is no resistance to turning them. When in this state, try shake the shaft in different directions and it should be clear if the joints are ok or not.
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  #4  
Old July 17th, 2012, 11:24 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I wouldn't say on the stick specifically, but just a general vibe throughout.
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  #5  
Old July 31st, 2012, 10:15 AM
Rover110
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Steve
1993 Defender 110 NAS #472
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Still trying to figure this out. Doesn't seem to be prop shaft.
This morning I started truck in 1st with clutch in. It let out a nasty prolonged grinding I would describe as gears trying to mesh.
Vibration is still happening when I upshift. More so at higher RPM at shift.


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I wouldn't say on the stick specifically, but just a general vibe throughout.
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  #6  
Old July 31st, 2012, 11:07 AM
RickM
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Rick Mabus
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I wonder if something is loose inside your clutch assembly. Obviously something is binding. If it was in the rear diff you would not be noticing it when the clutch is in. Can you have someone start your truck while you are under it and see if you can isolate the noise better.
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  #7  
Old July 31st, 2012, 11:13 AM
Rover110
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Steve
1993 Defender 110 NAS #472
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I could but today's noise was random and the "regular" vibration happens on up shifting.
I drove 700 miles this weekend and it held together. But I have a constant bad feeling about it.
The shop hat put in the new Trans/clutch/tcase have been rude about Following up. Even though it was all done 4k mies ago.


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Originally Posted by RickM View Post
I wonder if something is loose inside your clutch assembly. Obviously something is binding. If it was in the rear diff you would not be noticing it when the clutch is in. Can you have someone start your truck while you are under it and see if you can isolate the noise better.
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  #8  
Old July 31st, 2012, 02:40 PM
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Seams to me if you get underneath you could see it shaking etc from the point of origin.

I guess you gotta know the person starting it however does not have any water or oil on that clutch foot!
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  #9  
Old August 16th, 2012, 05:24 PM
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Steve
1993 Defender 110 NAS #472
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Updated Clue

If I shift up slowly, let the RPM's come down, I can shift through without the vibration.
Hmmm.
Anyone got anything?

Thanks...
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  #10  
Old August 16th, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Matthew
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Sounds like a worn throw out bearing to me
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  #11  
Old August 16th, 2012, 07:07 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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could that be after only 4000 miles on a new one?
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  #12  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 07:12 PM
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Steve
1993 Defender 110 NAS #472
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An update of sorts.The vibration took on a new quality. An awful low rumble below floor boards.
Finally got truck up on a lift this week. Front prop shaft is shot. UJ at T-case end is worn to nothing, cups all cracked, spinning enough to grind up too nuts.
Rear sway bar ball joints are shot.
a-frame ball joint is shot. All parts are ordered. Taking out the prop shaft wasnt bad except for the two sheared bolts.

A couple of questions for those that know. The t-case bolts are too long to slide out. So how do I replace them? Does the large bolt in the flange come off? do I grind them off and bolt the other way? does bolt direction matter?

Thanks all. Crossing my fingers this solves the issues and I can move on to new ones.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover110 View Post
I have been unable to figure this out so I'm turning to the collective wisdom of the board.

In first gear from a stop I have a nasty clunking at the rear. I was told the a-frame bearing it bad but don't think it's that.

Secondly, when I press clutch to head to second, pull through neutral and into second there is a bad vibration that comes up thru the stick. Happens in every gear during up shift, not down. It happens while getting into the new gear and stops when the clutch is released.

The 110 NAS had an updated rebuilt Trans and t-case and clutch installed about 5k miles ago.

Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I drove about 600 miles this weekend but I'm worried that something will give way causing more damage than I can deal with.

Thanks to all

Steve
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  #13  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 07:22 PM
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chris
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the flange comes off .. remove the circlip ..knock off the shield and replace the bolts or order a LR flange kit comes with new bolts flange and seals you'll have to order the nuts separate
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  #14  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 07:38 PM
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Steve
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Thanks, I have the new nuts and bolts. Is there a reason I cant leave the flange on and grind off the bolts then go the other direction? this would save removing the flange etc etc

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Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
the flange comes off .. remove the circlip ..knock off the shield and replace the bolts or order a LR flange kit comes with new bolts flange and seals you'll have to order the nuts separate
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  #15  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 07:44 PM
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chris
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unfortunately if i remember correctly you wont be able to get the nuts on and i think it will push against the circlip and seal shield.... once you loosen the center nut it will pull right off
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  #16  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 07:46 PM
Rover110
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Steve
1993 Defender 110 NAS #472
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Ok. I'll try that when the new shaft arrives. Would it be safe to assume I dont need a flange kit if the t-case and trans were installed about 6k miles ago?
Where is the circlip on the flange? in the center near the nut or outside?
many thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
unfortunately if i remember correctly you wont be able to get the nuts on and i think it will push against the circlip and seal shield.... once you loosen the center nut it will pull right off
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  #17  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 07:49 PM
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chris
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once you pull the flange off the back side has a steel shield ..knock the shield off theres a big clip that holds the bolts in the flange ... ill try to get you a pic in a min .....
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  #18  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 07:53 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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Interesting. That doesnt seem to be what im seeing. The bolts are not without nuts but there is not enough clearance in the back to pull them out. Seems like they hit the t-case

Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
once you pull the flange off the back side has a steel shield ..knock the shield off theres a big clip that holds the bolts in the flange ... ill try to get you a pic in a min .....
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  #19  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 08:16 PM
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chris
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You have to remove the flange from the box....
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  #20  
Old September 22nd, 2012, 08:22 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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Ok. Open to have shaft in a few days.
Thank for the help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
You have to remove the flange from the box....
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