Vent Seal Replacement - Stock to Series step by step - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 12th, 2013, 12:51 PM
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Vent Seal Replacement - Stock to Series step by step

My vents have always leaked (both air and water). Even when the vents were closed, my dog would sniff the air coming through them when we were on the highway, and in the Winter I could feel the cold air coming through onto my hands. In the Summer when it rained, I could see the water dripping in.

This is a common problem. This is usually a result of the foam seal or the adhesive holding them onto the inside of the vent doors breaking down over time. Another cause for leaks is that as the foam breaks down and hardens, permanent indentations are created where they meet the lip of the vent on the bulkhead when fully closed. The most common upgrade is to replace the OEM foam gaskets with the rubber Series III vent seals - part number MUC4299 . The main differences are 1) the Series III vents are rubber (not foam), 2) the Series III vent seals attach to the bulkhead side of the vent, instead of on the vent door itself, 3) they are larger/wider than what came stock, so when the door closes on them, the seal surrounds it, making for a nice water (and air) tight fit.

I used this info, which had most of the information one would need to complete the job, but I figured I'd help update the hardest part (those little tiny screws that secure the vent control arms to the vent doors)

http://www.defendersource.com/mod/vent_seal/index.html

What you'll need:
-Towel or protective cover/surface
-17MM wrench
-T50 star wrench
-5/16 socket
-5/16 wrench
-Something flat that won't scratch vent seals when removing foam
-Goo Gone
-3M scrub pad or Scotchbrite
-Liquid Nails
-Something to push the vents against the vent seals when curing


Here is a step by step breakdown of instructions

REMOVAL
1) Put a towel or blanket down across the hood where it meets the bulkhead
2) Using a 17MM wrench and T50 star wrench, remove the 4 roll cage bolts for the lower horizontal portion of the roll cage around the windshield. Be extra careful on your last bolt or two, as the under windshield portion of the roll cage will just drop once you remove the last bolt. This is when the towel or blanket helps. Remove.
3) Remove the little vent pins that act as hinges for the vents. They are on top of the vent doors, attached to the bulkhead
4) Go inside truck and put vent controls into the fully-opened position.
5) Go back to front and look under the vent doors and find where the vent control mechanism attaches to the doors. There are two screws holding it in place (one on either side of the arm). Pitch the tops of the vent doors ALL THE WAY FORWARD. This will give you a lot of room to work with from the top. They may be hard to pitch at first, but spray some WD40 on the vent control arm joints, and they'll eventually move. I found this easier than trying to remove the little screws first before removing the vent pins.
6) Remove the little screws attached to the vent doors. I used 5/16 socket wrench, but it's still pretty tight to fit a socket back there. You can also just use a normal wrench. Remove. Be careful not to drop the little screws!
7) Remove vents
8 ) Remove the foam gaskets /seals from the vent doors with something flat you can get under the foarm with.
9) Once you've removed as much of the foam and adhesive from the vent doors, soak them in Goo Gone (I let mine sit overnight), and then scrub the remaining adhesive off with 3M pads or Scotchbrite or whatever that stuff is called.

REASSEMBLY:
10) Get Series vent seals ready for install
11) Run a bead of Liquid Nails around the inside of the vent seals, and around the lip of the vent (on the bulkhead)
12) Go to inside of truck and retract the vent control arms all the way in/back (vents are not attached to them right now)
13) Place the new vent seals on the bulkhead side of the vent
14) TEMPORARY: retrieve vent doors and vent pins. Attach vent doors and pins to truck, and push closed/secure them snug against the vent seals.
15) Inspect fit. Ensure vent seals rubber is around the perimeter of the vent doors when closed.
16) Find something to keep the vent doors securely in place against the vents while the Liquid Nails cures for the next 7-10 hours. Propping something long into the crevace of the spot between the hood and the bulkhead and then using your windshield wipers to hold that object down/agains the vent doors worked for me. I tried letting them cure without the vent doors in place at first, and the seals just kept flopping/oozing out of place.
17) After Liquid Nails has cured, remove the vent doors and pins and ensure that the vent seals have cured securely against the bulkhead vents. Additional Liquid Nails may be necessary in some parts, so just dab that in where needed and proceed.
18 ) Go inside truck and let the vent control arms out a little. Go to front of truck and lift the portion of the vent arms (that the screws go through) up and over the vent seals if necessary (you do not want to be pushing out the newly cured vent seals), go back inside and open the control arms to the fully opened position.
19) Pitch the upper portion of the vent control arms ALL THE WAY FORWARD so that you are looking down at the little screw holes. Place vent doors on the bottom.
20) THIS IS THE HARDEST PART!! Using your fingers, or a 5/16" wrench, get the little screws started through the vent control armd and INTO the vent doors (place something underneath or against the gap between the hood and the bulkhead so that you do not lose your screws). This took me about 20 minutes per side, but maneuvering the vent control arms to whatever angle is easiest for you to have room to work with, is the way to go.
21) Once you have all of the screws in, pitch the tops of the vent doors back so that the vent pin holes line up.
22) Install vent pins
23) Go inside and REALLY close the vent control arms/doors. This will be more difficult than before, but it is because the new seal is far more robust than the old one.
24) If you put additional Liquid Nails in your seal during step 17, then let it cure by keeping the vent doors CLOSED for the next few hours.


Have a beer. Congratulations.

------ Follow up post added March 12th, 2013 01:01 PM ------

Pics will be loaded later, as my connection is poor right now.
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  #2  
Old March 12th, 2013, 01:04 PM
The Dro
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I need to do this to the Series... Any pics?
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  #3  
Old March 12th, 2013, 01:08 PM
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I didn't have to take off the roll cage crossbar when I did mine.
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  #4  
Old March 12th, 2013, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrc.swb View Post
I need to do this to the Series... Any pics?

Yeah, tons of pics. I thought my connection was good right now but it's not. I'll load them all up later on.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
I didn't have to take off the roll cage crossbar when I did mine.
You must have skinny arms and nice small hands. Removing them only took 5 minutes, and probably saved me some additional frustration later when I was putting the little screws back in.
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  #5  
Old March 12th, 2013, 01:34 PM
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+1. Thx
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  #6  
Old March 12th, 2013, 01:56 PM
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Replace "Liquid Nails" with "3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive" Skim coat both the gasket and the bulkhead. Air dry for about 3 minutes Line it up carefully cz you only get one shot. Press into place.
If you use that, then you can attach the vent quadrants screws to the vent FIRST, then feed the quadrant thru the vent opening and install the vent pins. Us Series folk usually clamp the vents down flat to make the gaskets take a "set", for at least a day or so. Otherwise, you can't get them closed. If the widscreen is off it is way much easier of course. A 2x4, properly padded to prevent marring the vents, can span both vents and be clamped on the ends.
Liquid Nails? Really? Must be Binford Tool Time.
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  #7  
Old March 12th, 2013, 02:23 PM
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This is what Bill is talking about:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black...strip+adhesive
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  #8  
Old March 12th, 2013, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Us Series folk usually clamp the vents down flat to make the gaskets take a "set", for at least a day or so. Otherwise, you can't get them closed.
This must be what I did wrong, because my vents won't close all the way and I still get the water and air inside, even with brand new seals...
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  #9  
Old March 12th, 2013, 02:35 PM
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Well, if you are really interested in a good seal, use the Frost King self adhesive closed cell foam weatherstrip tape from the hardware store. It goes on easily, and lets you close the vents and keeps all the evil out. Not exactly a "Rover" part, but better that the original in many ways.
I use that for the windscreen seals, upper and lower.
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Old March 12th, 2013, 02:53 PM
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Pics attached. File Name(s) should correspond to the step(s).
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  #11  
Old March 12th, 2013, 03:01 PM
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Jeesiz! Silicone? those are going to fall off in two years. Hate that stuff.
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Old March 12th, 2013, 03:07 PM
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Ha. Bill, I didn't see a tech article written by you regarding vent seal installation and adhesives a few months ago when I did this, please point me to it....

I went with what was on our d-90 front page tech article for this upgrade for some guidance, and it states Liquid Nails...so I went with what the hardware store across the street had in stock. Everything has worked fine so far.

http://www.defendersource.com/mod/vent_seal/index.html
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Old March 12th, 2013, 03:20 PM
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Ymmv
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Old March 18th, 2013, 12:40 PM
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Photos of seals AFTER install.
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  #15  
Old March 18th, 2013, 12:59 PM
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Good job!
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  #16  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 09:18 PM
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How has everything been with the vents since the upgrade? Does it work better at sealing them?
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  #17  
Old June 3rd, 2013, 06:14 AM
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Perfect so far.
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  #18  
Old June 8th, 2013, 08:25 PM
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This is not the easiest way to do it.

Basically you do NOT have to take off the two bolts that go into the vent. Just take the ONE bolt that holds the bracket on the vent to the lever on the vent. Open the vent. Knock the two pins out. Go inside open the vent all the way. Take out the one bolt. Pull off the vent. Install seal (I used adhesive black RTV as my weatherstrip adhesive was old and bad). Put the bolt back. Use a prybar on the vent to get the pins lined up (I slathered them in antiseize as that is what I do) and hammer the pins back in. Close the vent. You will not get it to the most closed position with new seals. Don't force it.

First one doing it this way took me forever. The second one doing it my way took 10 mins.

Looking at the pics, apparently you have a rivet there whereas I had a bolt with a nylock nut.
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Old June 8th, 2013, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Looking at the pics, apparently you have a rivet there whereas I had a bolt with a nylock nut.
Yeah I wish mine had a bolt that I could have just removed. When I was reading your post at first I thought you were talking about removing only one of the two tiny tiny bolts (per side) and was trying to picture it somehow being easier as such. But now I see you had a set-up that is different from mine. I wonder if 1994s were as you say (with the bolt) and if they switched to the rivet design (as seen on my truck) later on?
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  #20  
Old June 8th, 2013, 09:52 PM
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I have no idea but I could not get those two bolts to line up to save my life. I started chain smoking and drinking and I was like "wait a minute ...."

I would drill out the rivet if I have to face the issue again.
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