Vent Seal Replacement - Stock to Series step by step - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old June 9th, 2013, 03:23 AM
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Chris
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Thanks guys. Just got the seals and vents and was struggling to figure out where the seals fit.
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  #22  
Old May 23rd, 2014, 05:35 PM
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I'm doing this right now and I have everything glued in but the vent doesn't close all the way at the bottom, it sort of bulges out. Is this normal, does it settle in with applied pressure?
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  #23  
Old May 23rd, 2014, 06:01 PM
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Hopefully ample pretty was applied to the seal while it was curing - that should give you a very tight close, but it shouldn't bulge out much if it was allowed to cure tightly agains the bulkhead. I used a crowbar and the tension from the windshield wipers to keep my vents tight up agains the vent seals while they were curing.
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  #24  
Old May 23rd, 2014, 06:10 PM
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I wedged some spare 2x4s between the tire and the vent and plan on leaving it overnight, worst case scenario I have to redo it. The top part closes fine but the bottom part of the vent makes it seem like there is just too much seal for it to properly close.
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  #25  
Old May 23rd, 2014, 06:20 PM
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So Josh, a year later and no leaks? Seals falling off? My 110 had the Series vent seals and they leaked pretty badly. I need to replace my passenger side seal on my D90 because it isn't seated properly.
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  #26  
Old May 23rd, 2014, 06:24 PM
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No leaks and they're not falling off, but the truck is always garaged so it doesn't sit out to see most of the elements mother nature could throw at it. I washed it with a hose a few weeks ago and that would have usually resulted in a puddle of water on both the driver and passenger sides, but they were bone dry afterwards. It certainly requires additional effort/force to get them closed all the way, but even if I fully closed the old ones water would ingress, so this is a huge improvement.
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  #27  
Old May 23rd, 2014, 11:26 PM
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I have to concur. I did this and wedged a 2x4 between the roll cage bars and added a few pieces of door molding to get the vents forced against the seals, up to the top notch on the inside, left it like that for a few days and they look great and nary a drop on the inside...
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  #28  
Old May 24th, 2014, 02:38 AM
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Mine are fine. I can't get to the very last notch, but no more water leaks.
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  #29  
Old April 18th, 2015, 05:08 AM
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Perry Gamsby
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Doing it today!

I scraped off the old foam seals from my vents today. That stuff has to be toxic, surely? So far the new rubber seals are waiting to be fixed. I can't be asked removing the flaps from the arm; I know from decades of DIY experience with Landies they will come off easy, but go back on hard. I plan to use a good rubber adhesive tomorrow and fit the seals to the vents, not the flaps.

My car is a 95 300Tdi and I have the rive holding the arm to the bracket fixing the flap, a bolt would be simpler. I will fit the U channel side to the bulkhead and have the vents mate against the raised edge of the seals. I fiugere it is six of one, half a dozen of the other.

The photos show the old and new seals and 'The Ignominy of Land Rover Maintenance'.
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  #30  
Old April 18th, 2015, 09:33 AM
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Greetings Perry!

Keep us posted on the replacement. I will be doing this soon on my Landy.
Our NAS trucks have the roll cage bar in front of the bulkhead flaps making this a more interesting project.

Cheers...
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  #31  
Old April 18th, 2015, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevincdoyle View Post
I have to concur. I did this and wedged a 2x4 between the roll cage bars and added a few pieces of door molding to get the vents forced against the seals, up to the top notch on the inside, left it like that for a few days and they look great and nary a drop on the inside...
Series scuttle vent seals need to be trained. Initially this is a 2 person job. You glue the seal to the scuttle the you have one person inside pulling on the lever and one person outside pushing against the scuttle vent until you get it fully closed. There you leave the scuttle vent closed for about 4 months before opening it again. By then the shape of the scuttle vent lip has set into the rubber.
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  #32  
Old April 18th, 2015, 12:51 PM
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Why glue? If they ever need to be replaced seem like it would be a nightmare to remove...
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  #33  
Old April 18th, 2015, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Why glue? If they ever need to be replaced seem like it would be a nightmare to remove...
How else do you suggest affixing them?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #34  
Old April 18th, 2015, 04:12 PM
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You need some of Jason Lavender's wing top vents
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  #35  
Old April 21st, 2015, 12:37 AM
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This was probably one of the best changes I've done. Mine are now about 10 years old and still work well. Conversely, the old original style were shot within 5 years, and leaked buckets.
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  #36  
Old April 24th, 2015, 06:01 AM
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Job Done

I finished the vent rubber replacement today... after 4 days of the worst storms we've had this century. Driving around with no seals at all on the flaps was a worry but actually they leaked less than they used to! I used Tarzan's Grip, a well known brand of adhesive here in Australia; basically an industrial strength super glue, cheap and plentiful.

I took my time and glued one corner, then used cloth tape to keep it in place as I did the next four or five inches. Once the top was done I left it to dry for ten minutes while I did the other one. Once both top edges were in and taped I found the bottom run more or less fell into place. I just ran the glue along the metal and fitted the rubber. I put the flap pins back in and closed the flaps. I'll leave them for 24 hours before seeing if they open and close and seal ok.

I had help from my roof mounted flap holding clamps as I had wisely decided to struggle with the flaps rather than try and remove them. drilling out the pivot rivet and then trying to get one back in would be as problematic as un-doing the hex screws holding the flap to the lever. I fixed them to the bulkhead, not the flap. I have the U channel facing in and the raised edge facing the flap. They close nice and neatly and while I will monitor the corners where it seems perhaps not enough glue was used, I think they will do a good job. Certainly better than the old foam units.

I trust this has been of interest. I still have one more door rubber to fit (rear passenger or 'nearside pantry door' as they call it at Solihull). The other three were reported on at my Facebook page, My Land Rover - No Explanations Necessary'. Please visit and Like, it feeds my ego and it's comforting to know I'm not the only Land Rover tragic in the world. Cheers Perry
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  #37  
Old May 31st, 2015, 12:48 PM
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Question

I'm replacing mine now. Is this part number PLB332 from Rovers North?
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  #38  
Old May 31st, 2015, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
I'm replacing mine now. Is this part number PLB332 from Rovers North?
yep thats them ... have you decided how you are going to attach them>
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #39  
Old May 31st, 2015, 03:12 PM
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Cool

No, I haven't, but I'm sure I'll over complicate it...
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  #40  
Old May 31st, 2015, 06:53 PM
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One of the best mods to the truck. Original seals are a joke compared to series type.
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