VDO Fuel Gauge moving around when driving????? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old April 23rd, 2014, 09:11 AM
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Did you run a separate (+) hot wire to the new gauge as required or tap off a positive lead shared by other electrical devices?
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  #22  
Old April 23rd, 2014, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Did you run a separate (+) hot wire to the new gauge as required or tap off a positive lead shared by other electrical devices?
I did not run a new/separate +, I followed the instructions on here which said to use the current wires. So I just replaced the connectors.
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  #23  
Old April 23rd, 2014, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by blaughva View Post
I did not run a new/separate +, I followed the instructions on here which said to use the current wires. So I just replaced the connectors.
It sounds like a loose connection, that's the easy answer I realize, I would heat, solder and shrink wrap everything at the gauge, go back and do the same at the sender and see if that resolves the issue. Just because everyone's gauge does it doesn't mean it should. and everyone is right about the float, it moves around a lot, there must be a way to add impedance to the current to keep it from reacting quickly to changes at the tank. If the stock gauge does it then it must have a mechanism for dampening the current. Or maybe you put your old internals in the new gauge
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  #24  
Old October 29th, 2015, 12:30 AM
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My original gauge on my 1997 SW was totally normal with no noticeable movement then all of a sudden its starts dancing. If I turn right, it goes all the way to the right, same thing if I go left. Its moves if I go over rough terrain. it evens back our on smooth road but its really annoying. Never quite sure the level of the tank. I replaced the fuel pump thinking it was the sender and no change.

Has anyone found a fix for this? Is it a grounding issue?
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  #25  
Old October 29th, 2015, 06:09 AM
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Fuel sloshing around tank.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

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  #26  
Old October 29th, 2015, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaughva View Post
I did not run a new/separate +, I followed the instructions on here which said to use the current wires. So I just replaced the connectors.
That will work half way...
When another device needs to draw some (+) amps off the same circuit, you gauge reading will drop. Same with the ground... It has to be direct off the bulkhead... share it and the gauge reading will drop when some other device needs to share the ground.
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  #27  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 10:10 PM
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New clue. Today when sitting at a stop light the road was slightly slanted to the right. I noticed the gauge was pulsating. Looked like a heartbeat. This is not normal behavior. Any mechanics out there ever dealt with this?
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  #28  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 10:22 PM
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You really need to put the gauge against a known resistance. Then you need a multimeter to test the sender when stationary.

Your answer is usually self evident when you measure those quantities over some continuous period of time.
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  #29  
Old November 3rd, 2015, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_eaze View Post
New clue. Today when sitting at a stop light the road was slightly slanted to the right. I noticed the gauge was pulsating. Looked like a heartbeat. This is not normal behavior. Any mechanics out there ever dealt with this?
Were your indicators on?
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  #30  
Old January 4th, 2016, 11:24 AM
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Finally got my fuel gauge fixed. After replacing the sender and fuel pump, checking the voltage on all the gauges and lines, checking and cleaning the grounds, I finally ordered a new fuel gauge and it now works perfectly. I guess the gauge had gone bad. It wasn't cheap...a genuine one was in the $300 range. But if anyone else is having a similar issue look at the gauge.
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  #31  
Old January 4th, 2016, 12:16 PM
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I wonder if the simple placement of an in-line resister close to the gauge that could moderate the wiggling of the needle ?
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