"valley" gasket - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 28th, 2005, 10:10 PM
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"valley" gasket

Or is it the intake manofold gasket, has anyone replaced it? I have a feelin I might have to replace mine in a few thousand or hundred ( )
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  #2  
Old March 1st, 2005, 01:12 AM
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Michael Slade
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What makes you think you will need to replace it?
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  #3  
Old March 1st, 2005, 07:44 AM
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fluid in the wrong places.
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  #4  
Old March 1st, 2005, 04:29 PM
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The "valley" gasket is also the same thing as the intake manifold gasket. It both covers the valley as well as provides the sealing surface between the intake manifold and heads.

it's a 3-piece seal with the main valley piece and 2 end lips. Spring for the newer style composite gasket as it seals MUCH better than the tin style on there.

It is critical that you clean everything around it before lifting off the intake manifold and drain the coolant, once you pull that gasket off you are exposing the cam and lifters. Anything you drop, goes down into the engine so be careful and keep your work area clean. I highly suggest doing an oil change after you do the gasket to clean out any coolant that might find its way down there.

It's not hard to do, the only difficult part is that all the connections on the intake manifold wiring loom use the same connector, so mark which ones are which.

-Hans
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  #5  
Old March 1st, 2005, 05:11 PM
Eric Siepmann
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I had mine done when I had the heads done.

If you want to make sure if it needs replacing as it is a bigger job, do what I did. Find a shop with a smoke machine and have them smoke test you entire engine. You'll find all the leaks/gaskets that need refreshing.

The stealership mis-diagnosed an intake leak as the valley pan gasket. It was the evap cannister hose. I hate the stealership. A $200 job vs. a $1700 job.

EwS
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  #6  
Old March 1st, 2005, 06:17 PM
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yeah I noticed some "fluid" I think motor oil at the rear of the "valley" I wiped it all up this A.M. before I drove it, I drove 170 miles today and it is still dry back there so I dont think I will worry about it at this point. The valve train sounds like its fine and its had the best of the best put in the motor so I am not worried now, we will see.
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  #7  
Old March 1st, 2005, 11:36 PM
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Oil in the valley gasket could come from many places. Remember it's a straight shot from the valve cover gaskets into your valley gasket. My $$$ is on the valve cover gaskets leaking and NOT something expen$ive.

Take the truck to your local car-wash, take a can of carbcleaner, spray the engine down, spray the valley gasket off, valve covers, etc...make sure it's CLEAN, then drive it for a week. Watch every day where the oil is coming from and you'll start to get an idea of what is wrong.

Could be as simple as tightening up the valve cover gaskets or replacing them with the new rubber style.

Replacing the valley gasket is a PITA. Don't do it until you absolutely KNOW you have to.

Good luck!
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  #8  
Old March 1st, 2005, 11:41 PM
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yeah I was thinking that, when I first got the truck I took it to the stealership and they said the valve covers were leaking. Tomorrow I will tighten some bolts here and there to see what is going on, needless to say I am not really concerned.
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  #9  
Old March 2nd, 2005, 01:36 AM
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Valve cover gaskets are easy, the only hard part about them is getting the heater hoses out of the way on the passenger side. As with the valley gasket, there is a newer and improved one available.

-Hans
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  #10  
Old March 2nd, 2005, 09:03 AM
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IS it the composite gasket?? I read that it reduces compression

Follow-up Post:

or maybe that was the comp. head gaskets.
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  #11  
Old March 2nd, 2005, 01:20 PM
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There were a few updated gaskets. Both the head gaskets and the valley gasket were originally tin and were upgraded to a composite material. Valve cover gaskets became thick rubber units, and the header gaskets changed too

You're correct, the composite head gaskets reduce the compression ratio. But in all cases they seal a HELL of a lot better.

-Hans
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  #12  
Old November 24th, 2005, 06:42 PM
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I was reading the shop manual (gonna do some stuff sat) there is something mentioned about some sorta impact adhesive bostick 6001. Is it nescesary? I got all the "new" gaskets and bolts for the valve covers and then there is the intake which seems "easy".
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  #13  
Old November 25th, 2005, 09:27 AM
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Where does it say to use the stuff? I didn't use it when I swapped intakes.
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  #14  
Old November 25th, 2005, 12:23 PM
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6001 what ???
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  #15  
Old November 25th, 2005, 06:01 PM
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THis was in regards to the valve covers. sorry for the misunderstanding... It says it in the NAS90 and the older RR workshop manuals.
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  #16  
Old November 25th, 2005, 11:34 PM
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hmmm, my valve covers didn't have any goop of any type on them when I removed them? Maybe this is some type of thread locker for the bolts?
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  #17  
Old November 26th, 2005, 07:08 AM
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okay thanks. I had never ever heard of the stuff either.
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  #18  
Old November 26th, 2005, 07:30 PM
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So the Defender went under the wrench today went well I think it is 100% thank yall for all your insight and what not. Long live the D-90.com
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Old November 26th, 2005, 07:33 PM
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Nice Job! But wow everything looks soooooo clean!
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  #20  
Old November 26th, 2005, 08:02 PM
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thanks. You think so? I was wanting everyones input on that part of the motor. 50 thousand miles so far. THe fuel injectors were a pain in the ass and getting those plugs out from under the fuel rail. Only took about 8 hours with an hour for lunch and about an half hor looking for a screw. I think I could do it again in 3 or so hours.
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